greyEG

Hey my gears are kind of feeling rough when im switching between gears.
Could this be a fluid problem? And 1st to 2nd is the most rough/notchy feeling.

Do you guys think this is my synchros for sure? or could it be linkage/fluid or something.

I know i need a pilot bearing and input shaft bearing.. could this be the cause of it?

kyosoeg6

iTrader: (7)

when i had a faulty input shaft bearing my 3rd and 5th would grind.

you can try putting a band aid with thicker better trans fluid but i would honestly recommend you just fix the issue now.

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

What fluid and how long between changes?

Does it grind/scratch or is it just not smooth going into gear? What about 3-2 downshifts?

Just a n00b

What RPM are you shifting at? I often get a 1-2 grind if I shift at redline because I drive flat out when I come out of the pits after staging.

EK MONEY

iTrader: (5)

I SECOND THIS. SOMETIMES MAINSHAFT BEARINGS GO BAD, AND ALLOW THE MAIN SHAFT AND COUNTER SHAFT TO HAVE EXCESSIVE PLAY. NOW OR LATER, ITS GOING TO HAVE TO COME APART.

98ITR747

If you slam the gears really hard you will wear out the synchros. This is fairly typical wear and tear on ITR gear box unless you've had years of experience. Change the synchros and don't be rammy. Wrist power only

greyEG

i think around 30,000 to 40,000 since last change. It is like i will be shifting normally like...

from 1st to 2nd i have my foot all the way down on the clutch pedal and i make sure, it just feels rough going into 2nd ( not smooth) like you kind of have to use a little force and you feel it when it goes into gear, feels like rough and like a slight grinding feeling.

Then 2nd to 3rd no grinding feeling but it feels kind of rough to ( not smooth at all)

Same with 4th to 5th kind not smooth like it suppose to be.

Can this be my shift linkage bushing?

What do you guys think my problem is??

Thanks for helping greatly appreciated

silent112

I would check the clutch fluid quickly and take a quick look at your shift linkage and bushings, also if your motor mounts are shot then that could put your shift linkage out of alignment.

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

Fluid should be changed every 7,000 miles on street cars. Do not use Honda MTF.

It will probably need the 2nd and 3rd sleeve assemblies replaced. Expect around $1,000 parts and labor.

jdmh22eg2

care to elaborate? and what u recommend?

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

It is too thin even at room temp. I recommend Torco MTF for daily drivers and Torco RTF for any sort of performance driving or boosted daily drivers.

jdmh22eg2

than why do they recomend it? or no have better stuff? dont get me wrog i dont use it i use redline shockproof smurf blue ( light weight)

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

Because they make a lot of money on it. It was reformulated to address an issue with the K and J series transmissions, making it thin as water.

greyEG

bump.

Thanks for reply guys.

One question too. If i do a transmission rebuild if i replace the synchros to all the gears. And will i need a 1st to 2nd sleeve set?.. and if i get that is it necessary for the countershaft? I know how to take out the tranny. But how exactly does the actual transmission work. Like what is the mainshaft and countershaft?

For my 1st to 2nd grind/notchy/rough feeling, im going to do a transmission fluid change in a few days. Going to check shift linkage bushings too. ( HOPE IT WORKS!!) It sucks 1st to 2nd is feels real rough not smooth when going into 2nd!!


And

When i do rebuild it im getting all the bearings/synchros.. is there anything else in particular you guys recommend to? and clutch aslo

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

You won't know what needs to be replaced until the transmission is torn down and inspected.