Extended Ball Joint Clearance Question
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Extended Ball Joint Clearance Question
I'm currently running 15 inch Volk TE37's with Spoon calipers and was going to correct suspension geometry with a set of Buddy Club extended ball joints.
Will I have any issues with clearance?
Thanks
Will I have any issues with clearance?
Thanks
#2
Re: Extended Ball Joint Clearance Question
#3
#1 Super Guy
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Re: Extended Ball Joint Clearance Question
What makes you think that will "correct" the geometry? From everything I've read, results have been quite the opposite.
Also I belive they do cause the LCA to interfere with the brake disk's dust shield.
But to answer your question, here is a similar setup (no dust sheild)
Also I belive they do cause the LCA to interfere with the brake disk's dust shield.
But to answer your question, here is a similar setup (no dust sheild)
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Re: Extended Ball Joint Clearance Question
He did ask about his wheels though.
But I'll touch on rotor/backing plate if you'd like. It won't contact the rotor on ANY DC2 or EG chassis. You do not need spacers. If you are getting contact with the backing plate, bent the backing plate.
Rocket science this is not.
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Re: Extended Ball Joint Clearance Question
Thanks for the info everyone. And to answer 94eg! question, when you lower a car beyond factory specs, you alter the suspension geometry. I'm looking to correct the issue as well as correct tie-rod angle with different tie-rod ends to reduce bumpsteer.
#9
#1 Super Guy
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Re: Extended Ball Joint Clearance Question
Be aware, that is the advertising verbage you are using. Don't be fooled by that.
To "correct" bump-steer, this kit is altering your front roll center. This kit will raise it up. They will also tell you that raiseing the roll center is a good thing, but who says so? Who says it's actually under the road to begin with? You cannot know that without actually plotting your suspension.
To use roll center to correct bump steer, you need to know EXACTLY what the static ride height is. Otherwise you can easily overshoot or undershoot the optimum. These kits make no mention of the target ride height. That is how I know they are bologna.
For proper bump steer, all 3 arms (upper, lower & tie-rod) must point to the same intersection. As you lower the car, this gets out of alignment. If you look at this oversimplified image, you can see as the car gets lower, the tie rod no longer intersects with the upper & lower.
This image shows a roll center correction (red) for two different ride heights. It's very plain to see at any given ride height you will need a VERY different roll center correction to zero out the bump steer...
So my point is, how do you know this kit will "correct" YOUR geometry?
Also, there is no such thing as bad tie-rod angle. Either they point at the UCA/LCA intersection, or they don't. There is no reason to alter both tie rods and lower arm angle, AND it would impossible to optimize it on your specific setup without measuring and testing.
To "correct" bump-steer, this kit is altering your front roll center. This kit will raise it up. They will also tell you that raiseing the roll center is a good thing, but who says so? Who says it's actually under the road to begin with? You cannot know that without actually plotting your suspension.
To use roll center to correct bump steer, you need to know EXACTLY what the static ride height is. Otherwise you can easily overshoot or undershoot the optimum. These kits make no mention of the target ride height. That is how I know they are bologna.
For proper bump steer, all 3 arms (upper, lower & tie-rod) must point to the same intersection. As you lower the car, this gets out of alignment. If you look at this oversimplified image, you can see as the car gets lower, the tie rod no longer intersects with the upper & lower.
This image shows a roll center correction (red) for two different ride heights. It's very plain to see at any given ride height you will need a VERY different roll center correction to zero out the bump steer...
So my point is, how do you know this kit will "correct" YOUR geometry?
Also, there is no such thing as bad tie-rod angle. Either they point at the UCA/LCA intersection, or they don't. There is no reason to alter both tie rods and lower arm angle, AND it would impossible to optimize it on your specific setup without measuring and testing.
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Re: Extended Ball Joint Clearance Question
Your post suggests these cars aren't all the same.
Newsflash, they are all the same. The rate and angle at which roll center changes is all the same.
An Integra doesn't have different geometry just because it's MINE and not YOURS.
Also, the tie rod sits at a dangerous angle to the hub, hyper-extending the ball joint when you lower the ride height far enough.
Newsflash, they are all the same. The rate and angle at which roll center changes is all the same.
An Integra doesn't have different geometry just because it's MINE and not YOURS.
Also, the tie rod sits at a dangerous angle to the hub, hyper-extending the ball joint when you lower the ride height far enough.
#11
#1 Super Guy
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Re: Extended Ball Joint Clearance Question
The RIDE HEIGHT is not the same! In order to adjust bump steer via the tie-rod angle OR the LCA angle, you would need to factor in the ride height. These extended ball joints are marketed as a one-size-fits-all, yet not one of them specifies the intended ride height of the kit. Therefore you have no idea EXACTLY HOW it will effect bump steer.
And no the tie-rods are NOT at a dangerous angle. Not even close. Otherwise lowered Hondas would be failing left & right. My EG has been lowered over 2.5" for 15 years now on the original 1994 tie rods (187k miles). Still tight as a drum. These statements are marketing hype & scare tactics.
Here's a thread where the suspension was measured & plotted out in 3D in the hopes of unearthing any truth to the RCA's claims: https://honda-tech.com/suspension-br.../#post46632244
Anyways...here are the results if you don't feel like reading the thread.... It appears that in order for the common 3/4" roll center adjusters to correct bump-steer, you would have to be lowered 5.8". And adding the Hardrace super tie-rods makes it even worse...
https://honda-tech.com/suspension-br.../#post46688436
Bumpsteer curves: Stock, Lowered 2" & Lowered with RCAs.
And no the tie-rods are NOT at a dangerous angle. Not even close. Otherwise lowered Hondas would be failing left & right. My EG has been lowered over 2.5" for 15 years now on the original 1994 tie rods (187k miles). Still tight as a drum. These statements are marketing hype & scare tactics.
Here's a thread where the suspension was measured & plotted out in 3D in the hopes of unearthing any truth to the RCA's claims: https://honda-tech.com/suspension-br.../#post46632244
Anyways...here are the results if you don't feel like reading the thread.... It appears that in order for the common 3/4" roll center adjusters to correct bump-steer, you would have to be lowered 5.8". And adding the Hardrace super tie-rods makes it even worse...
https://honda-tech.com/suspension-br.../#post46688436
Bumpsteer curves: Stock, Lowered 2" & Lowered with RCAs.
Last edited by 94eg!; 02-23-2015 at 05:55 AM.
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