dave7

I'm very likely to get a DC2 soon. I would love to get it to about 250whp and reliable. Probably won't do turbo, did that before with d16 civic and it got too expensive and complicated.

I've been searching the forums. One way is supercharger, and I don't know much but it seems that superchargers don't do well in the high rpms, and I want my ITR to rage it in the high rpms which is one reason I want the car.

Another way is ITB, which might be expensive but I'd be willing to spend the money b/c they're unique as long as it could be reliable and daily driver. I've heard ITB's are not good for daily driver though.

Or just total N/A without ITB. Bottom end builds are expensive, I don't know much about engines so I def can't install the pistons/rods etc myself. Still, ITR bottom ends seem pretty legit as they are. I wonder how much power can be got from top end stuff like cams/gears, valve springs/retainers, intake manifold, valves(?), and along with headers/intake/exhaust/ecu tuning stuff. As far as my limited knowledge knows, is that better cams means better high end power but less low end power.

Thoughts?

AOBrien

Why do you want 250whp? Is the car only a DD or will it see track time also?

Montivious

K20

doood

iTrader: (1)

why dont you worry about getting an itr first?

Dave_B

Easiest, turbo

Stockest, K20

Most expensive, Fully built B-series.

Also, the myth that ITB's automagically give you crazy WHP is unbased and untrue.

Tight-R

Best answer you'll get.

EDIT: Not sure if you meant to write automagically, but that's an awesome word.

FULLYBUILT2.0

MUGEN INTAKE WILL GET YOU ATLEAST 251 WHP!!!!!

mozzandherb

iTrader: (3)

Why 250?

itr#1334

iTrader: (2)

Why 250? Because thats what he wants. Best thing you can do is have a HP goal when building a motor. Supercharger with bolt ons would get you around 250.

Todd00

I agree. Get the car then decide what you want to do. But if you're after big HP numbers, get a car that already comes with a K20. The B18C5 is a great motor, but not because it makes huge HP numbers.

dave7

Supercharger seems like the best way to go. But if I have enough money it might be fun to fully build the b18c5. Still I'd need to find a good shop to do that so I don't waste money. Think how awesome it would be to fully build it with ITB. That would be expensive lol. I'm just so excited to get a DC2, wanted one for so long. I love those cars. And it would be sweet if I could make it faster than my current car which I'm selling, an 06 sti. I like decent speed, but also light-ness.

vtecvoodoo

I'll chime in here. I picked up a k20 before I purchased my R. I was going to drive the car around stock for a month while I sourced the rest of the swap parts. I ended up getting rid the of the k20 and the car is still stock. It's just a very fun car to drive. It fires right up, gets good mileage, doesn't make a bunch of noise and is totally reliable. I might tune it to try and get a couple more ponies, but I am very happy the way it is currently.

kingofbattle909

iTrader: (6)

Todd00

If you're coming from an STi to a Type R, then you're going to be dissapointed in the power, period. Instead of trying to make it into something that it is not, just buy something that already has it from the factory.

And why waste your money on a genuine Type R? Just buy a GSR or Integra LS. Those are better for forced induction, anyways. It doesn't sound to me like you'll notice or care for the upgrades that the ITR gives from the factory.

And quite honestly, it doesn't sound like you've done a lot of research on the matter. Heck, just buy a 92-00 hatchback and drop a K20 in it if "speed and lightness" is your thing.

Tight-R

I agree, a lot of ITR owners waste the entire fact that it's an ITR. Get a GSR and go jack that up IMO.

EDIT: I shouldn't say a lot, but there's a reasonable amount, enough to :facepalm: to.

racebum

x2

the R is the best of the integras for boost as well. you have bigger brakes, a lighter car and can make as much power...all else equal than a gsr with less boost.

if you're dead set on 250whp+ boost it

mafia

K24 block K20 head. call it a day.

jahraul

buy one thats already s/c, turbo, or all motor. please dont mess up a stock one

racebum

would be money ahead as well

Franshow

"ZOMG DONT MOD THE TYPE ARGHHHH"....SMH. The ITR is just that an Integra type R...key word INTEGRA. Honda developed that car to be driven/raced modified OR in stock form... not to be kept away in a hyperbolic time chamber of sort's and yes it is pretty decent from factory but no where near not worth modifying. Before it was an issue with people putting shitty part's on a nice car and now for some weird reason an aggressive N/A build is deemed a bad idea because let me guess..."the resale value"... or because the B18C5's block is made with a "special rare metal that should never be touched or seen" LOL . To the OP N/A B18c5 is gonna be expensive and you CAN get great power but 250whp will be pretty hard to get in a streetable form.. Supercharging is great but doesn't have much room to grow due to the Intake temps when you start cranking up the psi, Turbocharging the B18c5 is not impossible just focus on the tune to keep detonation in check and ofcourse... the K20 the most "potential in N/A form" but keep in mind that the entry fee is pretty expensive but 250 whp is quite common with K series motors and not too hard to obtain..and when you do obtain 250whp focus on the brakes so you dont kill yourself ...PLEASE enjoy your ITR... because if it get's stolen you want no regrets...

Just a n00b

Easiest way is turbo.

Most fun way is N/A B-series beast

dave7

I don't know really anything about superchargers, but I wonder if an intercooler would help decrease the intake temps. That's for another thread lol. I don't wanna do a K20 swap, it's so expensive and it seems that keeping the b18c in there is the right thing to do. I've thought about just getting an RSX but I like the DC2 much better in looks. I don't want to do a turbo tho, I'm looking for something more interesting as I've already had 3 previous cars with turbos lol. And the high compression isn't great for turbos, though I don't know much about this, it just doesn't seem right to turbo a hc engine. As of right now, I might plan on doing a relatively total engine build, it sounds awesome and I'll have some extra cash depending on how much I buy the ITR for.

From what I've read in the replies, 250 n/a whp is pretty hard, but I'm thinking it would be fine to have 220whp and that seems doable. And then maybe the setup would allow for a relatively easy s/c if I wanted to do that later. When I actually get the car then I will have to find a good shop, so that will be another thread lol.

I could spend more money on a car like an m5 and have loads of power and it would be really fast stock, but not have money to do anything else. But that just doesn't sound that fun, I'd rather spend less on the car and make it cool.

racebum

this isn't the 80s. you can easily turbo 10:6-1 and not have any detonation issues. you can make an itr and absolute zipper with a disco potato. that little turbo spools up like a mad man and making say....275whp is easy. use something ultra reliable for a manifold like the inline pro and you would have a car that spools in the 3s and runs trouble free

it also will cost about $4500 all said and done if you use high end parts and do it right. maybe $5000.

turbo hondas get a bad rep from 2 things

1. too much hp for a bottom end
2. going cheap and having parts issues.

Todd00

Unless you find a clapped-out ITR extremely cheap, I don't see how it would be any "cheaper" in the long run to start with the ITR as a boosting or motor-building platform.

Brake upgrades are easy on non-ITRs and so is suspension, tires/wheels, etc.

Will the OP really benefit from the ITRs OEM upgrades? I'm suspecting not. He just seems to want to go fast in some form or fashion. I'd look for any decent body DC2 with a 5-speed and start my build from there.

100K mile 98 LS = ~$4K
100K mile 98 ITR = ~$13K.

For ~$9K you can almost build two different cars. I don't see any benefit to buying an ITR in this case, at all (since OP is going to basically redo the entire motor anyways).

98 LS + K20 swap = what, $9K? You're still $4K under the price of an ITR. $4K goes a long way in suspension, brakes and motors bolt-ons.

And in the end, neither car will be worth p!ss once you start swapping motors, so might as well start out cheap.

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

QFT........ x2