RTW DC2R

My stock axles are fuX0red y0! and I need to replace them soon, they are binding up. Need some axles that support about 220hp at the wheels safely. I dont really wanna go with the stock axles again. Im particularly interested in Raxles.com. I searched for info but didnt find much and just want to know if anyone has tried them out yet. Im probably going to go with Driveshaftshop but just looking for alternatives to hopefully save a few bucks. Ive also heard that Competition engineering offers decent axles but dont know too much about them. Thx

sgT

i only use stock axles.
I have seen pretty much all aftermarket axles break and dont think its worth
it for the money you will spend. Actually, the only part I have a problem with
is the outboard splined area, because thats where i always break them, and ONLY
the passenger side. Upgrading to prelude outer CV and jdm itr knuckles would
probably illeviate all of my problems. If you are having problems with other
parts of the axles such as the Inner CV then you might want to look into other
causes such as ride height, etc

RTW DC2R

ride height is about 1.5in lower in front on H&R sports. I dont really have the know-how or resources to custom build axles from other axle parts so thats why I was looking for something pre-made. Dont most aftermarket axle companies have some kind of warranty against breakage (even though it is a "wear or race part")?

sgT

warranty or not, it costs money to ship axles back and forth when you break them
so i would rather pay the same money and replace the broken part of the axle.
There are really no axle shops near you?

Teepo

Up front axles on WHite plains road in the bronx. ASE certified . Good work

RTW DC2R

Im sure there are axle shops in my area, but the question is whether they know any more than I do about axles for my car. Muscle cars are big up here but I doubt they would know much about imports, in particular the B series. I wouldnt trust them.

sgT

CV axles are CV axles

Big Teggie

SGT, what do you mean by stock axles? OEM or remanufactured replacements?

sgT

i prefer OEM if at all possible. They can be rebuilt a few times before they are useless. aftermarket are use once then exchange

ITR21

I'm glad im not the only one. I broke an oem axle last spring in the exact place, passenger side also.

ITR#132

Here is a pic of my DSS axle. Frank from DSS for covering this under warranty, even though it expired.

Outboard spline; DRIVERS side.


Hopefully I wont have the same problem with the Passenger side.



[Modified by ITR#132, 3:44 PM 3/6/2003]

RTW DC2R

ouch...just out of curiousity, how much power are you putting down?

Steve thanks for the help curious what axles are you running on your 2L? OEM?

turbotypeR@SPEC

i'm using gck axles from advanced auto parts with no problems yet.the reason people are vreaking them is because of the way they launch,not the axles themselves.before you launch,let the clutch out just before it engages,hold it there, and the let it go.it is alot easier on the drivetrain and doesn't give it such a shock.

RTW DC2R

more axle problems. This time its the driver side axle, the giant nut that holds the axle on the hub(under the center cap) is apparently stripped. I noticed some "thunking" noises when moving steering wheel back and forth, and erradic driving behavior so I decided to check it out. Jacked the left side of the car up, wiggled the front left wheel and sure enough, it had lots of play. Took the wheel off, noticed the rotor screws were loose. Tightend those, wiggled some more, and noticed the whole hub assembly moves. Took a look at the axle nut and it looks like it is halfway off!! Tried to tighten it (by hand), and the nut just spins. Tried to loosen it, and it just spins some more. Looks like its stripped or something. Either way from what I have been told, this nut takes crazy amounts of foot pounds of torque and I shouldnt be able to move it either way, yet I can move it with ease. I checked the right front for the hell of it, and the nut is definitely on the axle A LOT farther than the left side Any idea how I can go about getting this nut off the left side?

nsxtasy

Often, the axle nut gradually loosens before the axle actually breaks. If you keep an eye on your axle nuts, you can prevent the axle from breaking. It should not only be tight, but there's a stake mark that should be lined up in the middle of the notch in the end of the axle shaft.

There's a long description about this here - the forum is about the NSX rear axle nuts, but the exact same thing applies to the ITR front axle nuts. Photos will be posted there, probably early next week.

Around the Midwest, most of the tracks are run clockwise, and most of the axle nuts that loosen (and axle shafts that break) are on the left (driver's) side of the car.

'01 ITR - axle nuts okay so far
'94 GS-R - left front axle broken and replaced
'91 NSX - left rear axle nut being replaced today, to Acura of Brookfield (WI)

sgT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Often, the axle nut gradually loosens before the axle actually breaks. If you keep an eye on your axle nuts, you can prevent the axle from breaking. It should not only be tight, but there's a stake mark that should be lined up in the middle of the notch in the end of the axle shaft.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

My nuts are always tight.

We have come up with a different theory. The point that i twist the axle is the
exact centerline of the wheel bearing. Any comments?

Willard

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sgT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The point that i twist the axle is the exact centerline of the wheel bearing. Any comments?</TD></TR></TABLE>right at the spot between the two bearings?

Ausmith

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sgT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i only use stock axles.
I have seen pretty much all aftermarket axles break and dont think its worth
it for the money you will spend. Actually, the only part I have a problem with
is the outboard splined area, because thats where i always break them, and ONLY
the passenger side. Upgrading to prelude outer CV and jdm itr knuckles would
probably illeviate all of my problems. If you are having problems with other
parts of the axles such as the Inner CV then you might want to look into other
causes such as ride height, etc</TD></TR></TABLE>

Steve are you venting the stockers?

Ausmith

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zyg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you talking about the CV joints?
They (Steve and other drag racers) seem to break/twist the outer "shaft" and not the CV joints themselves.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes CV's.... extended use applications ie road racing

Ausmith

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zyg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard about Realtime doing that to mitigate failures, but these guys seem to be twisting and breaking the outboard axles at (or around) the area where the splines begin (durning launches on slicks, for the most part, while drag racing).

I've opted for the larger 36 mm JDM 98+ axles (and hubs) in my turbo car for this reason.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've seen breakage of the driveshaft from autocross and road racing. In some cases people add a spilter or undertray and do not consider the reduced airflow (cooling) for the axles. Venting helps in those cases.

sgT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right at the spot between the two bearings?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeap.

ausmith: no venting, but i am now twisting an axle every 5000 miles on average with only street use.

Maximus

I have a set of raxle.com axles for sale. I talked with a owner of a set of raxles before and he told me that he had no problems while using the axles. He was making 231whp and 151wtq with a 12.8 1/4 pass. Mingchi96 is his honda-tech sn and he used the setup for months worry free. Also the axles can also be rebuilt just like stock, either take it back to raxles or just purchase the neccessary parts from them. For those interested in a brand new set of axles see below. Tq down axle nuts to about 130 ft/lbs, not exactly sure.

Inquire by IM taking any reasonable offers!