JL 74

I would jump on this right now but from what I understand from another HT member is that all aluminum radiators comes with some drama with installation. Drama is the last thing I need with regards to my GSR.

Thanks.

egsleepercivic

replied to your pm

thewrai6th

FCM is correct 100%. I'm surprised you chose to argue with FCM instead of thinking about what you are saying, B Your engine will warm up the same amount of coolant when the tstat is closed, even if you have a 10,000 gallon radiator. Your tstat does not just let in an entire block full of cold coolant or ever let your engine get below warm.

thewrai6th

Exactly, because FI creates high engine temps and a stock radiator (sometimes) does not have enough capacity to keep the engine cool.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Lol...forget it.

m4xwellmurd3r

Fcm is right. What youre thinking of b serious is the time it takes for the radiator to hit its highest potential temperature. The tstat will only bleed enough coolant to keep the engine happy. The problem is when you have an engine with a higher heat output, and the tstat has to open longer to keep the engine at its happy temp. Small radiators will heat soak and eventually the radiator hits a point at which it cant remove heat faster than the engine produces it.

This has nothing to do with how long the engine takes to warm up. An engine with a swimming pool sized radiator will warm up initially just as fast as one with a half core civic. The difference is the swimming pool sized radiator will take a much longer time to heatsoak

B serious

iTrader: (1)

I'm talking about heating all of the coolant to a set temp. Obviously the coolant in the block heats at the same rate. I said this already.

The fact is that integras have a hard time initially warming up...and take a long time AS IS to blow hot air out of the vents. You're going to freeze to death because the block will always be fighting to heat the coolant as it takes it in.

Again....notice that EM1's have a more stable temp needle and blow hot air MUCH faster than integras.

Anyone that has driven an integra with the factory rad in cold weather has experienced that the needle gets to operating temp and then drops...and then comes up...then drops. This happens for a while before ALL of the coolant is warm enough that the temps don't keep fluctuating. All while you freeze to death. Yes dammit....even with a brand new honda thermostat and honda coolant.

You're assuming that a larger radiator won't make that wait longer?

B_Swapped93

I can say I've never driven an integra in the winter but I do let it idle in the winter and holy **** did it take long even with the stock rad, now with spring it warms up kinda faster when sitting. But as soon as you start driving the needle goes all the way to cold however my VTEC still works this isn't helped with using water+ water wetter instead of regular coolant I may switch back for the spring tho, my temp needle would always sit at 1/4 mark or 1/3rd if I was in downtown stop n go. Haven't gotten to test my skunk2 one really

m4xwellmurd3r

Driving my car during winter nights in az (gets below freezing) I never had the issue of my cars needle dipping like that. It would dip a couple times but it would stabilize. I think though, that having my radiator fan on a manual switch, and the fact I ran my car hard had something to do with it.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Lol winter nights in AZ.