I haven't posted here in probably a decade.

I searched the internet for a replacement radiator and found out the many brands available ranging from less than $50 to hundreds or more.

-The car is only driven a couple of times a week, at most. Mostly for short or long term parking, etc.
-It is a "beater" car although I still want to keep it for sentimental value since it is my first new car.
-As for mods, only the 3 basic bolt ons (Comptech)
-I will replace it myself

Where would be the best place to buy a replacement radiator for a 1998 GSR that this car deserves? Obviously, a Mugen radiator is not since it costs more than what is the car is worth.
Any brands I should consider other than OEM from a dealer? Any experience with the ones on ebay? I really have no idea since I haven't kept track in years and most brands I see are unknown to me.
I'd rather not spend ~$300 for OEM unless all other brands out there that costs somewhat less are junk.


Thanks in advance.

 

Skunk2 ones are decent of course mishimoto would be best but they're close to 300, I have one it's pretty solid and keeps the car cool on track days.

http://store.skunk2.com/skunk2-alpha...ator-1104.html


they can be found for just under 200$ usually

 

Thanks.
Does this install without any issues?
On the item, it states that "not compatible with OEM air conditioning fan"
So does this mean it is only compatible for 97-98 Type R which did not come with AC?

 

The factory integra radiator is already way oversized for the engine/car. Get a decent OEM type replacement from rockauto.com. I wouldn't bother with a multiple row aluminum radiator. The car will take longer than it already does to warm up and you're just paying more for no real benefit.

 

i would get the cheapest one possible from a local parts store. Usually they have lifetime warranties so in the future if it does fail you can get another without much hassle.

You can get a denso one online if you want an oem brand.

 

pulling my rad today, if i cant patch it with jb weld then it's denso ftw.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...984&cc=1000382

a total steal at $65.

 

Say what???

The type of rad you have has absolutely nothing to do with how long it takes for engine to "warm up".

As mentioned, your best bet is a replacement from a local auto parts store.

Performance Radiator has a replacement for about $120....
https://shop.performanceradiator.com...4409_4436_4437

Another option is your local bone yard, [PicknPull/PullaPart].

If you pay for shipping, you can have the OEM replacement rad I removed when I installed my aluminum Misu rad, it's only about 6mo old and still in very good shape. 94

 

$102 aluminum radiator right here. It doesn't make any sense to pay more for plastic radiator.

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...gory_Code=RADI

 

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...FUqUfgodvBIA1A

Is this the DENSO OEM brand radiator you suggested? I don't recall the brand the dealer quoted me but this is a fraction of the cost.

 

Thanks for the very generous offer. I don't want to sound ungrateful for something you are giving away but would this would be the same exact radiator in my 98 GSR? If you think shipping from Canada is not cost prohibitive, you can PM me including "hassle" cost and I can paypal you ASAP. Again, thank you.

 

It states 1994-97 Integra. Will this fit a 1998 GSR?
The 98-01 they have listed is for an Auto.

 

Yes it does. There is more coolant capacity. Even if the radiator is outside of the loop of the thermostat, the engine still has to heat up ALL of the coolant. The larger radiator will radiate more heat out of the coolant.

Coolant in the block is heated. Thermostat opens. Coolant from the radiator flows in. Its not any colder, but the cycled coolant is constantly cooled off more rapidly. Why would a performance radiator NOT cause the car to run cooler? That's the whole point, isn't it?

 

Fits my 98 just fine. Been tracking on it for a few years now.

 

Coolant is not flowing untill thermostat opens, thermostat does not open untill engine is at running temp., [just under 200 degrees F], so engine will "warm up" at the same amout of time no matter what rad you have.
By the time thermostat opens engine is at running temp., [or a little over optimum temp. as thermosta opens] the cooler coolant in the rad will not make a noticeable diff. in optimum engine temp. 94

 

The $102 aluminum rad should fit, rads should all be the same from 94-01 except for automatics.

Cost of shipping is about $30-$40 according to UPS, plus whatever customs fees you may have to pay, I think you would be better off with the aluminum one in the long run. 94

 

I replaced the rad in my 95 ls about 2 months ago, got one from autozone with a lifetime warranty for $90 out the door. found a coupon code online and ordered with in store pickup

 

Yes. The coolant inside the block will heat up just as fast the FIRST cycle (momentarily....this doesn't count as "warmed up", as I'll explain). But as soon as that thermostat opens, the cold coolant from the radiator flows in. Then the cycle repeats. The engine will have a hard time heating the coolant at the rate the radiator keeps cooling it.

Does it take the same amount of energy or time to heat 2 gallons vs. 1 gallon? Especially if the 2 gallons is being cooled at a faster rate?

Ever driven an integra with a stock radiator in cold weather? The engine has a hard time keeping pace with the stock radiator. It warms up momentarily...and then cools way down as the thermostat opens. If the engine is heating at a MUCH slower rate than the radiator is cooling...the thermostat keeps opening up to coolant that is constantly over cooled. As soon as it heats the coolant up, a bunch of over cooled stuff flows back in.

Scenario 1:
-200 degree thermostat
-1 gal coolant
-stock radiator with lower cooling capacity

Scenario 2:
-200 deg thermostat
-1.5 gals of coolant
-higher cooling capacity radiator.

Which car needs more time and energy to REACH AND MAINTAIN 200 degrees?

right back atcha

 

If high performance radiators don't make the need for more energy and time to heat the coolant to X temperature and for the cooling system to give away more heat at a faster rate.....then they're pointless, aren't they?

By your principle, every engine/car on earth should have the same capacity radiator/cooling system as long as the thermostat is set correctly? Because as long as the thermostat is working, any cooling system will take the same time to reach and maintain the same temperature as dictated by a thermostat?

 

I have been dealing with engine cooling and A/C for over 35 years, including compete custom systems, [both A/C and engine cooling] for hot rods and race cars.

I am pretty sure I understand how a cars cooling system works.

Yes I have driven my Integra in cold weather, I live in Canada.

I will not argue the point anymore, you go with what you think is right and I will go with what I know works, nuff said.

 

Lol...I'm speaking from experience as well as know-how, brotha. Ever notice that EM1's warm up and blow hot air out of the vents faster than GSR's?

 

Remember that a thermostat is not an on-off switch. Its rated temperature is the opening temperature. The thermostat opens slowly, meaning that the rad's cold coolant is mixed in with the block's coolant only a little at first, and finally a lot as warmer coolant flows from rad back to block and temperatures equalize between the two.

So long as the rad has sufficient flow to be able to exchange the heat developed by the engine, engine running temperature will depend on the thermostat's rating.

If the rad has insufficient flow to be able to exchange the engine's heat, then the engine will eventually overheat no matter the thermostat's rating.

Why "performance" rads? I'm not sure. Perhaps they are meant to be installed on race engines which develop far more heat than road-going engines. I suspect such rads are meant to be used on engines that have extremely high-flow cooling systems which depend on a temperature gradient much steeper than what a road-car system would need.

 

I think I'll go with this one since I am planning on keeping this car until the very end for sentimental (my son was conceived in this car among other things) value.

When you stated "should fit", I hope you meant that it fits without any drama whatsoever not "should fit" after I do this and that and also replace...... Thanks and pardon for my ignorance.

 

If you want a rad that is a "plug&play" get the $65 Denso, or be silly and buy the OEM rad.

It is a pretty good bet there will be some "drama", as you can see in the link I gave you, the Mizu rad install had some "drama" but https://www.sparkplugs.com/Automotive-l134.aspx customer service was great.

The top mounting bracket I "had" to make was so I could get more clearance because of the fan, I ended up not needing the 2nd fan, I hardly need the one fan, the Mizu rad is working great. 94

 

I would get a stock replacement unit like others had mentioned. I mean you can't go wrong with a lifetime warranty one and it shouldn't cost very much either. I have gotten a few from Autozone and they have worked well with no problems. But I guess you get what you pay for.

 

If you want an aluminum rad I got one from here for my hatch no issues no leaks

https://honda-tech.com/forums/performance-45/dna-motoring-radiator-sale-free-shipping-great-deals-3174845/