danteisme

iTrader: (2)

i'd like to install an oil temp gauge along with my oil pressure gauge, but i dont want to have to tap the oil pan. is there any other options that would still provide an accurate reading?

i'm also installing a type r oil cooler on the car this winter. id like to avoid adding a sandwhich plate ontop of that, is there any way to hook up the temp sensor with the oem oil cooler?

if not, i guess i could find another gauge to fill in the empty spot in my gauge pod.

rick_rabies

put it where the oem one is. the oem one in the oem place is just a warning light

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

i have my pressure gauged hooked up to the that spot right now. and from what i've read, its not a good place to get accurate temp readings. my initial idea was to tee off of the setup i have now but i was told by a few other people that tried that the they got a temp reading of 0

cheapskate

Personally, I'd put it in the pan. I had a temp gauge installed into a sandwich plate for a few months, I hated it. The blox sandwich plate was crap, always leaked, and the space available in that location to install instrumentation is very limited.

I bought a 1/2 NPT weld on bung from jegs, drilled a 1" hole in the pan near the drain plug, had it TIG welded, and installed the temp sensor into the bung with a reducer bushing. It wasn't much hassle at all. And now you have accurate readings, a professional job, and no risk of leaks.

Regarding the oil cooler, if you are planning to race your car I would skip the oem exchanger and look into an external heat exchanger. The oem unit isnt very effective for racing use.

FWIW if you decide to tap the pan, save yourself the trouble and install a my honda habit oil pan gasket while you're down there..

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

not really looking to race the car. i got the oem unit just because it was dirt cheap and i figured why not. i dont absolutely have to have an oil temp gauge, i'm just trying to think what else would be a useful gauge and not just for show. the oil temp is going to take up one spot in my quadpod, just need a friend to go wiht it lol

HRubss

Water temp gauge, Battery Voltage gauge. I'd get a AFR gauge if your car engine is pretty modified.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

i was leaning towards volt gauge, i have one on my vafc2 though. its mildy modified, i dont think anything that would require an AFR gauge, but i do have one of those. Just wasnt sure if i wanted to reinstall that or find something a little better.

thanks for all of the ideas!

97CWITR

First one is the same bolt that replaces the OEM oil pan drain bolt, just screw the 1/8npt fitting into it. No welding required

http://www.ngpracing.com/newstore/42...rain-plug.html

Don't put a sandwich on the Oil filter. Use this kit to place it on the firewall.

http://www.fast-turbo.com/products/F...t-Oil-Kit.html

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

I have that fast turbo kit. I used it to hook up my oil pressure gauge. I was told that it wouldnt give a reading that far away from the source. Have you used it to get temp readings?

I do like that drain plug idea too.

wunfstgsr

Get rid of that VAFC its a outdated tuning solution piggy back, get it tuned on a EMS like Hondata at least for better performance overall.

Having a AFR gauge is one of the most important investments you can make on your engine. Its a no brainer! monotoring the AFR could prevent you from blowing that thging in the event of it going lean even if its a stock motor, its a real good idea to invest in a AFR wide band sensor and gauge. Use this to replace the stock O2 sensor.

Benefits to Running a Wideband on the Factory ECU
Running a wideband on your factory ECU will have absolutely no affect on your peak horsepower. That is because at wide open throttle, your ECU goes to a predetermined fuel map and ignores input from the O2 sensor. Emissions and fuel economy benefit because it is much easier for the ECU to keep up with a wideband than it is for it to constantly chase a standard O2 sensor which rapidly bounces back and forth from lean to rich. The real benefit to running a wideband on your OEM ECU is that it will teach you what a good tune air fuel ratio looks like (assuming your motor is close to stock).
Beginners often believe that a car runs either rich or lean. They don't realize that all cars run rich, stoich, and lean depending on different parameters. At warmup, the mixture is very rich. At idle, Honda runs stoich 15.5. Under moderate acceleration, you'll see 14.7 to low 14's. Cruising at high speed with low load will show stoich. When cruising with very low load, the engine runs mid 13's. When decelerating with no throttle above about 1000 RPMs, the injectors shut off so the mixture is too lean to read. Decelerating below 1000, the mixture is lean with the injectors barely coming on as it prepares to idle. At WOT, the mixture goes rich. Over time you start to develop an understanding of where the mixture is for different amounts of throttle and different RPM. One day this will become the basis for you to create your own fuel maps using an aftermarket engine management system like the AEM EMS.
__________________

97CWITR

The oil pressure will be the same with the fast turbo kit line. I've used something similar and it worked well.

You cannot put the temperature gauge in the kit on the firewall as you need oil passing by it. Not sure if that's what you're asking.

I will be using these two solutions on my type r coming up. I haven't used the drain plug fitting yet...

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

sorry yeah thats what i meant. i get good readings for the pressure for the firewall kit. i was asking if the temp gauge would read on the firewall. but everything i've read says the temp gauge will basically read zero lol

HRubss

Running an AFR gauge is pretty useful, it tells you how your engine is running even thought it's stock.