Mobil 1 or castrol
12-11-2003, 06:41 AM
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Re: Mobil 1 or castrol (luvinmyGSR)
just my .02:
i used mobil 1 10w30 for about a year and a half and i would lose a bit of oil in each interval (about 1/2 quart every 3k miles). been using castrol syntec for ~3 oil changes.. no oil consumption. theyre both good, its just personal preference
i used mobil 1 10w30 for about a year and a half and i would lose a bit of oil in each interval (about 1/2 quart every 3k miles). been using castrol syntec for ~3 oil changes.. no oil consumption. theyre both good, its just personal preference
12-11-2003, 07:17 AM
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Re: (Xymox)
I agree with the above posts. Mobil1 tends to burn in VTEC motors. Not excessively, but it's there. I switched to Castrol Syntec in my GSR and experienced no burning. Still, it's personal preference.
12-11-2003, 07:18 AM
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Re: (Xymox)
I dissagree i used mobil 1 and used more oil than with castrol also . I say castrol out of the 2 , but another great choice would be amsoil pricey but can go longer between changes .
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12-11-2003, 09:28 PM
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Re: Mobil 1 or castrol (luvinmyGSR)
i use neither.. i use red line oil... but if those were my choice i'd say castrol cause thats all my dad ever use on his cars
12-12-2003, 12:52 AM
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Re: (acuraholic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuraholic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree with the above posts. Mobil1 tends to burn in VTEC motors. Not excessively, but it's there. I switched to Castrol Syntec in my GSR and experienced no burning. Still, it's personal preference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My previous posts will help clear some myths...
"SYNTEC BLEND Part Synthetic is the only motor oil that is a proprietary blend of Castrol conventional oil and SYNTEC molecular components. Its synthetic blend formula provides added protection versus conventional oils for severe driving conditions. These conditions are defined in car and truck owner's manuals as stop and go traffic, towing & hauling, frequent short trips, extreme temperatures, and even idling -- conditions that you face every day\"
And as for switching back to dino oil after using synthetic...It is not a MYTH!!!
Its possible still to go back to dino oil but you are risking damage to your motor seals! NOTE: this is not recommended. Switching back and forth from dino oil to synthetic will increase the corrosion on the seals inside your motor. That's a fact. Dino oil alone does this, but in a very very slow matter.
And as for your Mobil1 oil burning, it is an idication that your seals are worn out and needs replacement. You mentioned you've been switching from dino to synthetic and I believe that was the cause.
BTW: Conventional oil = Dino Oil = Honda OEM Motor Oil = Mineral Oil
Castrol Syntec blend is different.
I recommend it for those who cannot affort Synthetic oils.
Mobil1
Redline & Amsoil - quite too expensive though
--------------------------------
B18Cs in general are known to lose some amount of oil when switching over to synthetic from dino oil. Or using synthetic oil for break-ins. In most cases, it is with Mobil1. I am not degrading Mobil1 oils in any ways, infact, I use it too. Dino oils or Mineral oils leave deposits in your car that have an effect on your seals. Overtime, these deposits act as seals themselves helping your engine maintain its proper oil level. Synthetics have cleaning detergents in them so when switching over to it...it cleans out the deposits left behind by dino oil. The seals inside your engine will cure overtime, unless they are really damaged. It is also good to replace the cam seal or cam plug (I use the STR cam seal, about $30 at most aftermarket auto/Internet stores---wise investment) if you're car is old or your engine has been abused by constant racing and high revving. I will add more to my post but right now...I have to go to class....hope this helped in some way.
.::nightrider-gsr::.
CHEERS
NRG
My previous posts will help clear some myths...
"SYNTEC BLEND Part Synthetic is the only motor oil that is a proprietary blend of Castrol conventional oil and SYNTEC molecular components. Its synthetic blend formula provides added protection versus conventional oils for severe driving conditions. These conditions are defined in car and truck owner's manuals as stop and go traffic, towing & hauling, frequent short trips, extreme temperatures, and even idling -- conditions that you face every day\"
And as for switching back to dino oil after using synthetic...It is not a MYTH!!!
Its possible still to go back to dino oil but you are risking damage to your motor seals! NOTE: this is not recommended. Switching back and forth from dino oil to synthetic will increase the corrosion on the seals inside your motor. That's a fact. Dino oil alone does this, but in a very very slow matter.
And as for your Mobil1 oil burning, it is an idication that your seals are worn out and needs replacement. You mentioned you've been switching from dino to synthetic and I believe that was the cause.
BTW: Conventional oil = Dino Oil = Honda OEM Motor Oil = Mineral Oil
Castrol Syntec blend is different.
I recommend it for those who cannot affort Synthetic oils.
Mobil1
Redline & Amsoil
- quite too expensive though--------------------------------
B18Cs in general are known to lose some amount of oil when switching over to synthetic from dino oil. Or using synthetic oil for break-ins. In most cases, it is with Mobil1. I am not degrading Mobil1 oils in any ways, infact, I use it too. Dino oils or Mineral oils leave deposits in your car that have an effect on your seals. Overtime, these deposits act as seals themselves helping your engine maintain its proper oil level. Synthetics have cleaning detergents in them so when switching over to it...it cleans out the deposits left behind by dino oil. The seals inside your engine will cure overtime, unless they are really damaged. It is also good to replace the cam seal or cam plug (I use the STR cam seal, about $30 at most aftermarket auto/Internet stores---wise investment) if you're car is old or your engine has been abused by constant racing and high revving. I will add more to my post but right now...I have to go to class....hope this helped in some way.
.::nightrider-gsr::.
CHEERS
NRG
12-12-2003, 11:08 AM
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Re: Mobil 1 or castrol (tooky2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tooky2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honda factory oil is mobil 1, go with the pros</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats not true.
thats not true.
12-12-2003, 11:57 AM
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Re: Mobil 1 or castrol (Primo.)
if honda oem motor oil is mobil ONE motor oil then, why doesnt everyone head over to their dealership and buy honda oil for $2.90/qt. instead of paying $4.99/qt. for mobil 1 at their local auto parts store.
12-12-2003, 12:06 PM
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I prefer Castrol oil over Mobil. Even the Synthetic.
For some reason, Mobil synthetic seems to disapear in my engine. It doesnt burn, but it just gone.... lol
Switched over to Castrol Syntec. No problems yet.
For some reason, Mobil synthetic seems to disapear in my engine. It doesnt burn, but it just gone.... lol
Switched over to Castrol Syntec. No problems yet.
12-12-2003, 12:21 PM
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Re: (NightRider-gsR)
NightRider-gsR...isn't it true that there's Castrol Syntec as well as Castrol Syntec Blend? I've seen both where I've purchased oil. I've always used the Syntec, not the Syntec Blend. I don't see how the oil could only be sold in blended form and sold for about $.50 more per quart than fully synthetic Mobil1. Maybe I'm wrong. As far as the burning being indicative of bad seals, I doubt it. I noticed burning with Mobil1 when my GSR had as few as 10k on the clock. Bad seals at 10k miles is unheard of.