Idle control components, and their potential for failure
#1
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Idle control components, and their potential for failure
I have a 95 GSR, which, go figure, has been abused. I bought it for dirt cheap because of an MIL which made for a great point of negotiation on price. Quick pull of a code 22, visual inspection of V-tech wiring, easily found open, butt connector, smog'd, registered. Wham bam right in the clam.
I could tell someone had abused and neglected this poor teggy but I wanted a project and this was one I could afford. After DD'n it all over northern California for almost a year problems presented themselves, and I was ready to tear into it. Just finished rebuilding the top end (.015" deck, valve seats, stem seals, felpro gasket kit).
Well I want my baby back to factory, or as close as possible. (I know buying a felpro gasket directly contradicts "factory" but please for the sake of the thread play along). The condition which finally pushed me to do the tear down started with a hunting idle. I'd be devastated if this were the case when it's time to go back on the road. After thoroughly reading the DIY's regarding the coolant contacted idle components I inspected and cleaned FITV. It seems to be all good. IACV, on the other hand, looks like the source of my problems, and then some. Every square inch contacted by coolant looks bad in fact, and I did what I could to clean it, especially in the thermostat housing and FITV. If anyone has any technique's they'd like to share with regards to cooling system cleaning, please, by any means. My head is torque'd back down, but if you know of a cool way to clean out the block's jacket's with block in car i'm all ears. The head was cleaned over and over, being that I have access to a parts washer. But i'm concerned about this idle air control valve, and i'm not gonna throw it in the washer.
Has anyone bypassed the IACV? Does this guy look like he'll ever function properly again? Should I bight the bullet and buy a new one? I think it was a source for a vacuum leak, and potentially coolant consumption, though I never saw/smelled any steam from the tail pipe. Has anyone ever consumed coolant this way? or had a vacuum leak because of such nasty valve? No MIL for the component, but OBD1 is kind of primitive. Any and all information/advice regarding these coolant contacted idle control components would be greatly appreciated, thank you. Again, I've already read the DIY threads and they're very helpful, I just want some advice.
I could tell someone had abused and neglected this poor teggy but I wanted a project and this was one I could afford. After DD'n it all over northern California for almost a year problems presented themselves, and I was ready to tear into it. Just finished rebuilding the top end (.015" deck, valve seats, stem seals, felpro gasket kit).
Well I want my baby back to factory, or as close as possible. (I know buying a felpro gasket directly contradicts "factory" but please for the sake of the thread play along). The condition which finally pushed me to do the tear down started with a hunting idle. I'd be devastated if this were the case when it's time to go back on the road. After thoroughly reading the DIY's regarding the coolant contacted idle components I inspected and cleaned FITV. It seems to be all good. IACV, on the other hand, looks like the source of my problems, and then some. Every square inch contacted by coolant looks bad in fact, and I did what I could to clean it, especially in the thermostat housing and FITV. If anyone has any technique's they'd like to share with regards to cooling system cleaning, please, by any means. My head is torque'd back down, but if you know of a cool way to clean out the block's jacket's with block in car i'm all ears. The head was cleaned over and over, being that I have access to a parts washer. But i'm concerned about this idle air control valve, and i'm not gonna throw it in the washer.
Has anyone bypassed the IACV? Does this guy look like he'll ever function properly again? Should I bight the bullet and buy a new one? I think it was a source for a vacuum leak, and potentially coolant consumption, though I never saw/smelled any steam from the tail pipe. Has anyone ever consumed coolant this way? or had a vacuum leak because of such nasty valve? No MIL for the component, but OBD1 is kind of primitive. Any and all information/advice regarding these coolant contacted idle control components would be greatly appreciated, thank you. Again, I've already read the DIY threads and they're very helpful, I just want some advice.
#2
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Thread Starter
Re: Idle control components, and their potential for failure
For a nightly reading I hit up my Chilton surprised to find diagnosis procedures for this and many other components. Mitchell1 and AllData, you disappoint me. It's okay though. I should've looked sooner at my physical form of information. Battery voltage should be available at all times KOEO and when jumped to power this guy should click. I bet mine will do both based on my prior conditions, luckily it's not the only test I read up on.
#4
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Re: Idle control components, and their potential for failure
good looking on the advice, it was replaced, and my vacuum is now 25+ inches which kind of worries me. The vent cap on top of the IAB tank below the intake manifold cracked so I just plugged the hole. I hope that's not creating an overly high vacuum situation which would cause me to pull oil in through my intake valve stem seals, which are brand new, and installed by yours truly who is by no means a professional. I also have a spare MAP sensor i'm considering installing if I can't get my idle down, It's a little rough, and 300 high. The roughness could be due in part to the one injector I had to pull off an OBD1 prelude I saw out at pick and pull because of cracking one of my own during the build process. I got some smoke coming from the tail pipe, looks steamy, smells oily, #3 spark plug definite oil contamination. Compression good though!
#5
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Re: Idle control components, and their potential for failure
good looking on the advice, it was replaced, and my vacuum is now 25+ inches which kind of worries me. The vent cap on top of the IAB tank below the intake manifold cracked so I just plugged the hole. I hope that's not creating an overly high vacuum situation which would cause me to pull oil in through my intake valve stem seals, which are brand new, and installed by yours truly who is by no means a professional. I also have a spare MAP sensor i'm considering installing if I can't get my idle down, It's a little rough, and 300 high. The roughness could be due in part to the one injector I had to pull off an OBD1 prelude I saw out at pick and pull because of cracking one of my own during the build process. I got some smoke coming from the tail pipe, looks steamy, smells oily, #3 spark plug definite oil contamination. Compression good though!
#6
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Re: Idle control components, and their potential for failure
Yes, yes I do. I'm not digging it. Got some OE gsr's for sale? How damaging could the bigger injector be and you wouldn't happen to know off hand the cc difference would you?
My biggest concern was the resistance of the injector. I just didn't want to fry my ecu and I was in a pinch, and honestly, its not running all that bad and i'm getting ready to do another overhaul anyways so i'm going to wait until then before I get a fresh set of four, still kind of up in the air about going OE or upping the cc's a little, and getting a walbro pump.. decisions decisions
My biggest concern was the resistance of the injector. I just didn't want to fry my ecu and I was in a pinch, and honestly, its not running all that bad and i'm getting ready to do another overhaul anyways so i'm going to wait until then before I get a fresh set of four, still kind of up in the air about going OE or upping the cc's a little, and getting a walbro pump.. decisions decisions
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Idle control components, and their potential for failure
Yes, yes I do. I'm not digging it. Got some OE gsr's for sale? How damaging could the bigger injector be and you wouldn't happen to know off hand the cc difference would you?
My biggest concern was the resistance of the injector. I just didn't want to fry my ecu and I was in a pinch, and honestly, its not running all that bad and i'm getting ready to do another overhaul anyways so i'm going to wait until then before I get a fresh set of four, still kind of up in the air about going OE or upping the cc's a little, and getting a walbro pump.. decisions decisions
My biggest concern was the resistance of the injector. I just didn't want to fry my ecu and I was in a pinch, and honestly, its not running all that bad and i'm getting ready to do another overhaul anyways so i'm going to wait until then before I get a fresh set of four, still kind of up in the air about going OE or upping the cc's a little, and getting a walbro pump.. decisions decisions
1993-96 Prelude VTEC Peak and hold 345cc
1997-up Prelude VTEC Saturated 290cc
All B series injectors are the same. I believe I have a extra set of obd1 b20/ls injectors I can sell u. Ill have to get back to u.
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#8
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Re: Idle control components, and their potential for failure
thanks for the info, they're from a 1993. If you come across those b series injectors shoot me a message and we can exchange info/payment method/ect.
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Re: Idle control components, and their potential for failure
Originally Posted by 95gsr@530
My biggest concern was the resistance of the injector. I just didn't want to fry my ecu and I was in a pinch, and honestly, its not running all that bad and i'm getting ready to do another overhaul anyways so i'm going to wait until then before I get a fresh set of four, still kind of up in the air about going OE or upping the cc's a little, and getting a walbro pump.. decisions decisions
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Re: Idle control components, and their potential for failure
Has anyone bypassed the IACV? Does this guy look like he'll ever function properly again? Should I bight the bullet and buy a new one? I think it was a source for a vacuum leak, and potentially coolant consumption, though I never saw/smelled any steam from the tail pipe. Has anyone ever consumed coolant this way? or had a vacuum leak because of such nasty valve? No MIL for the component, but OBD1 is kind of primitive. Any and all information/advice regarding these coolant contacted idle control components would be greatly appreciated, thank you. Again, I've already read the DIY threads and they're very helpful, I just want some advice.
Originally Posted by 95gsr@530
Just finished rebuilding the top end (.015" deck, valve seats, stem seals, felpro gasket kit).
What was done to your valve seats upon rebuild?
#11
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Re: Idle control components, and their potential for failure
no valve seat change.
a hunting idle lead me to believe the IACV was malfunctioning. No air in the cooling system, no vacuum leaks. I couldn't figure out why it was hunting.
a hunting idle lead me to believe the IACV was malfunctioning. No air in the cooling system, no vacuum leaks. I couldn't figure out why it was hunting.
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Re: Idle control components, and their potential for failure
And you never once suspected the MAP sensor being the culprit? Maybe the FITV? If the IACV was the issue, cleaning it out might fix the problem. There's always the option of bypassing it all together.
#13
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Re: Idle control components, and their potential for failure
Map checked out, FITV I replaced with a new one, I cleaned this one out and after I did the head gasket the problem went away. This was a while ago now. the idle is pretty steady now, I've got some other issues, and i'm afraid the hunting may be coming back but at least now, after today, I have all matching oem 240 cc injectors. I pulsed them tapping the negative side to battery voltage while running pressurized carb cleaner through them, seemed to work, spray pattern looked good. I'm going to do the head gasket again, and rebuild the head, maybe do some valve train up grades. I went felpro last time, all oem this time. Also, I reused head studs, this time looking to put some ARP's on, or at least new OE ones. The difference in price being an average of 50$ in which I need unfortunately badly at the moment.
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Re: Idle control components, and their potential for failure
[QUOTE=EnjoyTheRideDC2;50738644]Why would you run an H-series injector on a B-series engine? The Prelude uses a Peak and Hold while the Integra is setup for Saturated injectors. Your ECU doesn't provide the correct signal to even open the Prelude injector without a resistor pack. How hard is it to find a B-series injector at a junkyard?
Depends on the Integra. OBD0 (1991) used low impedance injectors, and obd1 (92,93) used high impedance
Depends on the Integra. OBD0 (1991) used low impedance injectors, and obd1 (92,93) used high impedance
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