GaryTuesday

Hey honda tech im having an issue with my 1999 Integra GS-R.

I recently had my thermostat get stuck open, and as a result my motor was taking a long time to warm up. However after warming up, the car would bog and lose power, especially at stops. It seemed to be fine when already moving in gear but once I disengage the clutch the revs would drop to ~300rpm and almost stall. Its hard to describe, but it was like when I would press on the gas pedal, the motor would take a good 3-4 seconds to rev up, and dropping my clutch in 1st gear would bring the revs down so far.

I read that a valve lash adjustment could fix the bogging issue, so yesterday I replaced my thermostat with a brand new oem one and at the same time did a valve lash adjustment. When i started the motor, it idled high around ~1300 rpm and as it warmed up, started to idle lower and lower. Well it warmed up pretty quick because the thermostat worked perfectly now and all of a sudden my motor stalled out at a stop sign. I was in 3rd gear slowing to a stop sign and as soon as i try to idle my motor it just stalls out gently. I could feel the power steering pump stop because i was still moving. It started back up again first try however felt like a pretty weak start. Every stop i came to the motor would just stall gently. Each time i would start it back up again it would feel weaker and weaker of a start. It is definitely heat related, everything is fine until its warmed up. I recently replaced my fuel filter with a VMS racing fuel filter from ebay, and didn't have an problem with it, however it might have been masked by the cold temp when my thermo was broken. I believe its an issue with fuel delivery, but I read it could easily be a vacuum leak.

So my question is, what do you guys think is wrong with my car?


I have brand new spark plugs 40 miles on them. Brand new timing belt and water pump 200 miles ago. Cleaned IACV like 100 miles ago. Brand new oil filter 200 miles ago. Valve lash and oil change just done. Brand new battery like 300 miles ago.

Fliptard

put an OEM filter back on and see what happens.

Did the car ever overheat?

GaryTuesday

OEM fuel filter was a FRAM, it was super clogged but i think i have it lying around somewhere. Do you really think I should put it back on? I am not sure about the overheating but it seems possible, I am the 10th owner of the car according to carfax. Its never overheated on me.

tamboo

look into the main relay if you havent.

http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html

tamparican

iTrader: (1)

I too am having the same problem. Mine started about 2-3 months ago, and was more subtle at first. Once the car reached normal operating temps, or say at least a good 15-20 min driving around, once I reached an idle point (stop sign/red light) the idle would gently drop a few hundred rpm, then quickly stabilize itself out, but once I put it in gear and hit the gas, the car would like bog and stutter till it picked up or I gave it extra gas...Recently I had new timing belt, new valves, bigger TB/Vstack, new synt. oil+ mobil1 filter, etc..but (still have current same NGK plugs/wires w/ about 15k on them).. By now the problem has gotten worse to that within about 10 min driving (and I live in FL so perhaps warming temps could impact it)..it starts bogging at red lights..after about 20 min if I hit a red light it's almost guaranteed to stall on me unless I ride the rpms to 1.5k/2k at idle to take off.. once it's driving, it rides out perfectly fine no issues..ONLY at stop/idle..

I've heard it could be the IAT sensor..that will be my next option, other than new plugs and wires..I also noticed I have a tiny hairline crack on the dizzy cap by one of the bolts (overtightened when I installed it)... not sure if either of those 3 will fix it in my case.. OP - if you get any luck let us know.

GaryTuesday

Guess ima buy a fuel pressure gague that fits to ur fuel filter. Will post results. Ima look into main relay, although the motor runs strong and healthy up until it reaches approximately operating temperature.

I just got my old job back so I might go to big o tires and pay them for custkm work to figure it out.

What do you guys think?

ZLboosted_EG

You try raising the idle?

slow_teg

I had a prelude that was doing the same thing to me. I unplugged the vaccum line to the egr valve and it quit stalling out. I replaced the egr valve with a new one plugged it back in and as soon as it warmed up it started stalling again at stops. Never did figure out why it was doing it, just ran it with the egr vaccum off.

tamboo

tested engine coolant temp sensor?

kyden

but you don't have an egr valve...

GaryTuesday

I have been aware of this option however I don't understand why I should have to raise the idle if its run great on that particular idle position, raising it seems like I would only be covering up the symptoms of a deeper problem. Correct me if im wrong.

You know actually, I remember one of the first days I had my car I took it to a local mechanic to try to diagnose my P0325 code. While it was there, it suddenly threw a Coolant temp sensor code while in their possession. So they replaced the sensor for free, it looks slightly different from the original one, but it did get rid of the code. I'll upload a picture of it as soon as I can.

A vaccum leak seems like a real possibility, however I have no idea how the engines vacuum system works. Ill have to pick up a helms manual sometime and figure it out.


Would it be a good idea to Seafoam my motor thru the intake manifold? I cleaned my IACV awhile ago and it was extremely dirty and cleared up a lumpy idle and my idle dropping suddenly. Haven't had either of the problems since so im assuming the IACV is still clean.

GaryTuesday

bump? anyone have any idea what it could cause a stall at stops that is heat related?

HondaPartsHero

What is your idle set at? Have you tried setting the idle? Do that then check your ignition timing.

GaryTuesday

So i adjusted my idle screw just a hair right off the bat because my motor was stalling almost immediately after reaching operating temp. I took her for a spin around the neighborhood and after reaching operating temp, the idle would drop super low to almost stalling but wouldn't, I pulled over and was about to unplug my iacv so that i could finely tune my idle but i noticed a flashing CEL, I plugged in my reader and i got back P0303 and P1399. I didn't want to keep running the car while it was misfiring so i just stopped there. I had an issue with this code coming up awhile ago while in a shop and the mechanic just sprayed seafoam in the cylinders and the code went away. But only p0303, ive never gotten p1399 before.

I think the next thing to do would be to clean my fuel injectors? I think they are original and have like 100k miles on them.

B_Swapped93

compression test post the numbers/last ignition tune up cap rotor etc...

GaryTuesday

im goin to the shop pretty soon so ill get a compression test while im there.

So I tried adjusting my idle completely just now. after letting it warm up the idle sat around 600-700 rpms. As soon as i unplugged the IACV, the car stalled out. I loosened the idle adjustment screw a bit and tried starting her up again. It would crank over and stall out immediately. I went back and raised the idle some more but it would do the same thing and stall out right away. According to the guide im reading, the idle should only drop like 100 rpms and than i should adjust the screw until its sitting at 650 rpm with the IACV unplugged. But as soon as i unplug mine i just stall out. What does the mean, or what should i do about it?

HondaPartsHero

wunfstgsr

check your timing maybe you slipped a tooth on the timing gear. I would look into the ECT sensor its located on the side of the head under the vtec solenoid and also check the map sensor!