MurtazaDSM

I was wondering if I break the crank pulley loose with a impact can I still use a rachet to adjust it back to tdc or do I have to put it tdc then break it loose.

TheRealTegger

Set it to TDC compression on the #1 cylinder BEFORE busting the bolt loose!!!

An impact wrench will nudge the crank around a tiny bit, like maybe move the marks 1/16" or so off each other. You can bring the marks back together again by hand, simply by grabbing the pulley and rotating it back.

Are you changing the timing belt?

MurtazaDSM

damn does anyone have anytricks to loosen the bolt because it doesnt even move when I use my impact gun, I tryed spraying wd40 and still didnt budge

kyden

get a better compressor and/or gun.

or use the pulley holder tool and a breaker bar.

MurtazaDSM

I have a snap on gun would have thought it could get the job done

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

Pully holder and breaker. This is what I did:

Held the pully with a pully holder tool, and the car in gear and all spark plugs in. I had a 2' socket extender so that I could actually reach the bolt.

On that was: A 2' breaker bar, a 1' steel pipe around the end of that, and my 2' jack handle inside the steel pipe. All told it was about 4-5' long.

I supported the end of the socket extender on a pile of concrete blocks, and my wife stood on it to keep it from torquing out. I jumped on the end of the breaker and the bolt came loose.

kyden

the gun is only as good as the air supply.

Whiterice-gsr

they are ridiculously tight man, go with gagnars leverage method i do the same thing with my breaker bar and i use the bar from my floor jack on the end to give me the extra length.

silron

after you get bolt out and do what you have to do,make sure NOT TO put it back with a air gun.the gun will mess the threads in the hole.

TheRealTegger

WD-40 will do absolutely nothing. You need a gun capable of 350 ft-lbs.

If your compressor isn't up to the job, you can use the brute-force method mentioned above, or you can go to an industrial supply house and rent an electric. Or you can buy an electric from Home Depot, for about $250.

CleanLikeJdm

If the car is stick you can put it in 5th gear and hold the brakes to keep it from moving.

Once it's all broken loose take the sparkplugs out to rotate for TDC easier.
You do Not need to set it to any certain spot before breaking it loose, just for reassembly.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

I loosen the bolt at whatever position. Closes to TDC for convenience, I guess. I zap it off, and then zap it back on lightly. I then use a ratchet and 19mm to get it to TDC.

Remember to turn the engine COUNTER clockwise to move it. Don't turn it clockwise or you can skip a tooth on a belt if the belt is old/loose.

It does not matter if you take the bolt and crank pulley off when it's not at TDC. Just don't take off/move the timing belt when you're not at TDC.

As far as the methods used to take it out, you have to be crafty. I have an extra big *** gun. Sometimes it works. Sometimes I have to get my friend's 3/4'' big bertha gun. The gun is the easiest way. But if you don't have one:

-you can always put the car in 5th and have someone hold the brakes...or put screw drivers in the rotor vanes so they jam against the calipers.
-Use a breaker bar or wrench with a jack handle or some sort of pipe on the end of it for leverage.

The problem with that method is that the motor mounts take up so much of your energy that all you're doing is putting power into torquing the engine over inside the mounts. Once the mounts have reached their yield, the bolt will snap loose. You can use sharp force to turn the bar...like...jump on it or shock it somehow to help with the energy loss from the motor mounts. It's kind of a pain.

You can also buy the crank holder tool. That holds the crank's large hex section with a breaker bar that's wedged against the ground or something solid as you turn the bolt out with another breaker bar. That holds the engine solid...so it takes a lot less effort to break the bolt loose.

Sometimes, however, the crank holder tool is kinda big...and it won't fit between the pulley and frame rail. So you might have to put a jack under the oil pan, remove the motor mount on the driver's side and lower the engine down so the crank pulley hole is past the frame rail.

Solster

i always used the starter and a breaker bar if it too tight just unplug the dissy and hit the key always works for me at home.

TheRealTegger

It's impossible for that idea to work with a B-series engine: it turns the wrong way. Trying your idea will break the bolt. Or worse.

axis11

Did not work on my d15. Oem assembled crank bolt is way too tight. Guns didn't work. Gear and brake didnt work.Only the breaker bar and crank bolt tool made it move. Paid 5$ for the shop that loosened the bolt.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Lol...the starter method didnt work on your car because the engine turns COUNTER clockwise. You tightened it more with the starter.

The bolt isn't necessarily that tight. It's only on there with like 150-175lbs of torque. The problem is that the threads are so fine that they "stick" to each other when the bolt is tightened up.

TheRealTegger

130 lbs, actually.

It has nothing to do with the fineness of the threads, it has to do with the surface-texture of the threads. Over time, the surface textures of bolt and hole threads sort of "settle in" with each other, causing an interlocking effect. The phenomenon is known as "embedment".

Honda's crank bolts are of very high-quality, with a relatively smooth texture, but embedment still occurs. That's what accounts for the need to apply two to three times tightening-torque when loosening.

thewrai6th

Just a word of advice on the brute force method. Using an extention pole is great and what I do, but use short impacts, instead of prolonged pressure. Jumping on the breaker bar is actually better than standing on it, as the increase in temps can cause the head to shear off the bolt.

Those crank bolts need alot more than 200ft lbs to break loose, even if you put it on at 150.

I use the undercarriage of the car, with a 24" breaker bar and the crank pulley holder, to keep it from spinning. It also helps to have a friend over 350 lbs come step on it.

el crapitan

BAHAHAHA!!!
back in my younger days, like a jack ***, i followed someones advice on this method. ended up shearing the head off. funny thing is, once the head snapped off, because the bolt was no longer loaded, i was able spin out the shank by hand. so, in a sense, that method did work LOL

this is how ant-seize works to keep from seizing or "embedment". it actually creates a barrier of dirt and crud that keeps this from occurring.
however, personally, i don't think this is what occurs with the crank bolt. i think it's more to do with the size of the shoulder and washer that keeps them on so tight.

now, i know i'm going to flamed hard as **** by the squeamish for suggesting this, but you know what frees up bolts know matter what? heat.
if you heat that crank bolt head red hot, and let it cool, it will come out by hand.
what happens is the heat causes the shank to expand. when it has nowhere to expand to because it's forcing against the crank threads, once cooled, it will actually contract slightly.
you will, of course, need to replace the bolt, and crank seal, but it will work

el crapitan

ooh ooh. know what would be ideal for this situation? inductive heating coil. my brother bought the kit from snap-on awhile back. used it once right away and never since. 800$ well spent indeed

TheRealTegger

You'd better tell Honda, then. See this issue of Honda Service News:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/hsn_feb-93.pdf

el crapitan

hmm. link didn't work

TheRealTegger

Try it now.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/hsn_feb-93.pdf

el crapitan

haha. damn, man. i can't read that.
but one of the reasons i figure it's due to the shoulder is because in my experience that i previously posted, i jumped on that bolt through a breaker bar and 6 foot handle extension forever. nothing. that's when i performed the malpractice of letting the engine do the work. in the incorrect direction, of course. but once the head sheared off, there was no problem unthreading it by hand. if imbedment were the issue, i would, of course, been ****ed. maybe it was just my case. but i definitely think the shoulder and washer size play a role. i mean, if you think about it, the larger diameter is going to spread that torque load out and provide a stronger hold

TheRealTegger

Why not? It's all of a few sentences. And in English, too.

When the bolt's tension is removed -- as when the head snaps off -- embedment disappears. Embedment is a function of surface texture, chemical composition, and mechanical tension, but the ultimate source is tension.

Honda does not agree. Honda's engineers know more than everybody on this site put together, so I'm inclined to believe them before any of us, myself included.