greatnightmare

Yea no doubt. Thanks for the help. Hopefully nexy time I post something its an update saying its running and im good to go.

allmotorRyan

If he didn't use lube deff buy a new headgasket and reinstall it with the lube my car ran like crap and i forgot to lube the threads. We pulled it gasket was wasted and also won't get the proper torque on the studs without the lube which would explain why each cylinder is different and seal up those oil leaks

greatnightmare

Thats exactly what I was thinking. Did you buy new studs too? Im gonna redo the rings since im not sure about them and I will have it that far anyways

greatnightmare

Im also hoping I dont have to resurface anything but I can only imagine what the head and block look like between those cylinders.

wunfstgsr

Yea just start over check everything! Best advise i ever got was if your gonna do it, do it right the first time!

greatnightmare

Yea...u dont know how bad it blows to drop 3k to rebuild 100% and have someone else mess it up

wunfstgsr

Trust me i do lol even worse when its on the dyno and tuner aka jack *** blows your 10k setup and doesn't do anything for you!

greatnightmare

Wow thats insane! It was a figure of speech though lol.

greatnightmare

Was there nothing you could do legally?

wunfstgsr

Nope those ******* made me sign the waver form before i had them tune it! big mistake! don't go to the "Dyno Shop" in Santee CA this was like around 10 years ago i learned the hard way.

greatnightmare

So pulled it apart and what do I find?? All pistons had at least 1 ring clocked wrong and 2 pistons had the 2nd ring upside down!! My god great friend huh? Cylinders still look good thank god and hone is still visible. Head and block were still straight but 2 exhaust valves seeped a little gas when I filled them up. So im taking it by the machine shop tomorrow. Thanks for helping....I will update as I go

wunfstgsr

Owe man that sucks at the very least id go and call him out! tell he sucks and shouldnt go near a engine again.

greatnightmare

Alright so I FINALLY got it back together. First I had to wait for the rings, and then while torquing the head down I pulled threads out. Its not the first one that has done that to me on this block. I had 3 holes previously do that and I had a shop install time certs. This time I had the money for the kit and no desire to pull the block again so I bought the time sert kit. I installed in 5 holes and the two in the middle I left alone. So anyways, it runs great so far. I started it up and let it idle for avout 20 mins and during that time I adjusted ignition timing and bled the air out of coolant. Shut it down and topped it off, and went for about a 10 mile drive. I would take it to about 3.5-4k rpms and then let off the throttle and let the engine brake. I will continue to drive in that manner until the rings fully seat. Thanks to anyone that helped me throughout especially wunfstgsr.

wunfstgsr

Any time!, Well this is great news! this is how i broke in my Type R crate motor! glad everything is working correct. We will be here if anything happens again! I also would give variable revs in any given gear, i would vary the revs say in 2nd id go up to 2500 then 3rd 3500 then 4th 4500 ect.. engine break after every rev. After my first synthetic oil change i revved it into vtec and up to about 8k rpm.

4drboostking

iTrader: (1)

You can monitor the state of the rings seating by doing regular compression tests. You will see the numbers rise over the first 100 miles and then start to top off. Thats when you know the rings are fully seated.

greatnightmare

Awesome...I did not think about that. Thanks man.

greatnightmare

I have one more question... when I adjusted my ignition timing, I warmed the car up completely, jumped the service connector and shot the light down at the crank pulley. Ive set timing on my cars plenty of times in the past , but this time when thee distributor was in the middle, it was a good bit retarded. I turned it all the way towards the front end and it is still like 4 degrees retarded. I checked my cam timing and its spot on, so the only thing I can think is its because my head and block were resurfaced. Does anyone know how I go about checking this and also how to adjust it with adjustable cam gears. Or is there any other reason that could cause this?