kenneth4g4d

The car is a 89 civic si with a b18a1 (obd1). I've been having cold start issues, I've done vacuum leak checks and everything checked out good. Sometimes it takes a good ten seconds for it to fire up and when it does if you touch the gas pedal within a min or two it'll bog down. Sometimes it'll crank after ten seconds and it'll fire up then die and itll take 5-10 times to get it to stay running. I've pulled the tps off while it was running and no idle change so I'm thinking maybe is gone bad? Any ideas would be appreciated.

tamboo

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html

kenneth4g4d

Tyvm

kenneth4g4d

So I'm wondering if my egr valve not being wired in (when doing the swap i was told i didn't need to hook it up) and I'm wondering if it is acting as if it's stuck open. From that link it being stuck open would cause my exact problem due to it only opens once it is warm and when it I'd cold and stuck open it would act as i vacuum leak and if i touch the gas before it got warm enough to need to be open would cause the bogging. Any thoughts I'm fairly new to egr valves?

full Circling

take apart your FITV, clean it with carb cleaner, and make sure the big plastic piece is tightened down. also clean out your IACV. grab some hondabond (or permatex ultra grey) or new oem gaskets for them both to prevent vacuum leaks.

if that doesnt fix it, move on to more expensive problems. try the cheap fixes first.

kenneth4g4d

yea the iacv and fitv are working with no leaks ive already checked those (might try it again tomorrow) but the EGR was used on my integra i swapped from auto to manual and when i drove it last it was acting funky but was also leaking coolant at the time so i didnt think anything about it since i was just driving it around the block to park in my garage to yank the motor out. So i was wondering if maybe it was stuck open in there and now its still open which would cause the exact issue i have which is:

- Hard to start when engine is cold
- once started if you touch the gad before its warm it bogs and/or stalls
- once engine is warm it will run fine.

So im making a plate to remove the egr and block off the 2 ports and if that doesnt fix it ill try cleaning the iacv and fitv again to see if maybe i missed something last week when i did it. :/

kenneth4g4d

well took the EGR valve off and made a temp block off plate until i got back to work to make a nicer one. It fired right up and no bogging if i touched the throttle

full Circling

Nice! I'll have to remember that one. Love the non-vtec B18s for the low end "torque" lol. Throw a b20z or b18b intake cam in it, it will idle noticibly smoother. Good valve adjustment, new vacuum tubing everywhere to ensure no leaks, good plugs and wires, and not having a clogged cat will make them run very efficiently. You can totally run then into the ground too, even more so than the vtec heads. Great DD motor!

kenneth4g4d

well i lied..it fired up and purred once i blocked it off. Let it sit for 3.5hours and it took a lil longer to fire up and ran rougher than normal, hopefully i just didnt have enough air bled out from when i redid the FITV line cause it looked like it was about to rupture. So i rebled the air and ill try it again in about 4 hours to know for sure :/

Yes once it warms up the b18a1 in this car is alot more fun to drive than the 2 DA's i have. So much torgue in 1st that if i let out the clutch, speed up a lil bit then get on it hard (75%-100% throttle) itll break lose until part way in 2nd. (LSD kit over winter time and possible a GSR head )

kenneth4g4d

btw it has a new ECT (threw the code a week ago so i replaced it)
only code i have is for the o2 heater circuit.

kenneth4g4d

Yup it's fixed finally just had a lil air still in the line was all.

kenneth4g4d

Well it was fixed for Saturday Sunday and Monday. Start it up to go to work today and same thing...maybe my late isn't working now? I'm making a thicker 10 gauge plate today at break maybe it'll fix it again...