Trygge

Ok..well when we first did the swap I got no code.

The knock sensor was hooked up and working as for as I could tell since there was no engine code.

Then about 4 months later I get the Code 23 (knock sensor)...and the engine starts retarding extremely at 6000rpm and is just generally slow...

I first check the connection to the knock sensor...check
then the connection to the ecu............................check

so what's wrong with it?
do these sensors actually go bad? I've heard it's very rare...

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thx,

Trygge Toven
trygge@atomikvision.com
aim: itiggai

Trygge

By the way....


I have chipped my p72 ecu to fix the problem and it still looks for the knock sensor...

any idea why? do p72 chipped ecu's not get rid of that? is it just the p28s?

don't know what to do....


[Modified by Trygge, 10:30 AM 10/11/2002]

pennies_hatchie

iTrader: (1)

bump, i got the same prob, need answers!!!

LSVTEC408

my car does thee same, when ever the knock sensor detects something bad, it prevents it by going to limp mode, not letting you to redline past 6k, so you wont detonate, what i do is just reset your ecu by disconnecting the negtive cable, but i suggest get a chipped p28 to remove the knock sensor, p72 would always detect it eventhough though its chipped.

pennies_hatchie

iTrader: (1)

well i have a p30 for jdm b16a. its detecting the knock sensor and its making my rpm jump every 1-2 secs when im going steady at 60-70 mph. anyways to make it go away other than buying a new knock sensors (old one is chipped) or a chipped p28.

knighteg

i have a 94 gsr and i have a code 23 also, but am able to redline all gears and engine sounds the same. so does this code mean the knock sensor is not working or is it that the knock sensor is actually detecting knock?
n e help would be appreciated

pennies_hatchie

iTrader: (1)

bump, need answers to get rid of my rpm problem

E-brake or Handbrake

UP for answers.

Brian_TII

Not sure what this means... but I accidently ripped the wiring / connector off the back of my knock sensor. All I got was a check engine light that comes on ~5 - 10 minutes after starting the car. Otherwise the car runs totally normal. BTW- PM me if you have a knock sensor for a 95 GSR.

stumpyf4

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brian_TII &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure what this means... but I accidently ripped the wiring / connector off the back of my knock sensor. All I got was a check engine light that comes on ~5 - 10 minutes after starting the car. Otherwise the car runs totally normal. BTW- PM me if you have a knock sensor for a 95 GSR. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Rare but not unheard of, if you drop it it'll definitely go bad.
1) Check the resistance between the ECU side terminal and knock sensor connection, it should be closed (i.e. good continuity).
2) Check resistance between ground and the KS terminal at the ECU. Should be open.
3) Also check the knock sensor itself. Check resistance between the body of the KS and terminal, should be open.
4) Swap the KS with a known good one.

Train

the knock sensor is simply a pizzo(sp?) crystal. so going bad isn't out of the question. if you have a DMM (digital multi-meter) CHECK FOR CONTINUITY before you go asking silly things. you could have a simple open in the harness. but i'd say make sure the motor isn't knocking too... heres a part# from acura for a obd1 knock sensor 30530pv1a01 (those are all zero's in there) and the price is 139.30 from acura. good luck have fun.

iH8RICERZ

iTrader: (1)

Chipped p28 will do the trick PM me if anyone is interested!!!

stumpyf4

FYI: Knocking or pinging will not set off the trouble code, it will automatically retard the ignition. The trouble code is set off when the sensor reads out of parameters... i.e. ECU expecting between 0.1volts and 5volts but gets no voltage, this will set a trouble code. The actual proper operation of the circuit will not cause the code.

leolo007

.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brian_TII &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure what this means... but I accidently ripped the wiring / connector off the back of my knock sensor. All I got was a check engine light that comes on ~5 - 10 minutes after starting the car. Otherwise the car runs totally normal. BTW- PM me if you have a knock sensor for a 95 GSR. </TD></TR></TABLE>Brian, I have the same thing with my jdm B18C, are you sure its just 5-10 mins, what I mean is, take a look at temperature gauge when you start the car. My light comes on when the temperature reaches it normal operating point. Tell me if this is your same scenario and if you got it fixed let me know what you did

Brian_TII

No, it is temperature based. It will come on within ~1 minute if the engine is already warm. I'm pretty sure I know what's wrong with mine.... the wires have been ripped out of the back of the knock sensor. I've got another knock sensor in the mail right now. I feel pretty confident it will resolve the issue.

Brian_TII

Update: My problem is solved. I've replaced the damaged knock sensor and everything works well.

BTW- I must thank 92whitecx for fast shipping and a good price on a used knock sensor. A very good seller.