dallison

I did find that i can clean the top of the block with wd-40 and scotchbrite.

dallison

I will say that the forums used to be really helpful when asking for advice. I am not saying this doesn't happen here but, it seems like people like to say use "search", again, not always here. Now i have been on an Acura forum since 2003 (i can't believe it has been so long) and others get the same thing. I have almost 40k posts and know what to search for if i am looking for an pwnage thread where others have no clue. Members are more inclined to help me answer a stupid question because they know it's me and not a troll. These forums are a tight knit community and that's why they have lasted so long.

I can tell you that i have searched using different methods on the net and here and don't always find what i am looking for. I think when you participate long term in a forum it's easier to find things than not. I try to ask intelligent questions without asking how do i shift out of park. Searching for things like cylinder numbers, tdc, what should i do in this instance are not always the easiest thing to search for, even after an hour of trying.

dallison

Block cleaned and lubed
#1 cylinder set at top dead center(not in pic, but the one closest to the driver side)
water pump removed and area cleaned.

dallison

I am just making sure that i need to set the motor at tdc which is #1 cylinder before i set the head back on? Do i need to do anything special to the head before installation? btw, both of my torque wrenches don't work. Now i have to borrow one.

jdmark1

iTrader: (2)

Have you had the deck checked/resurfaced? You want to do that before putting the head back on. And again, factory service manual says this as well as goes through the steps on how to do it and answer any other questions you have so download a copy of it....

dallison

When you say deck, do you mean the head or the block? I have a refurbed head.

jdmark1

iTrader: (2)

I mean the block deck surface. That should always be done before re-installing the head. I would also have the head checked as well.

dallison

TB is on thanks to some help. The next step is to adjust the valves.

There is about a 1/4 tank of 2-3 year of fuel in the tank, can i add premium to fill it up, or should i just drain it and add new fuel?

dallison

For obvious reasons, it is difficult finding parts for these things. I was looking for replacement seat rails since they are rusting, and other interior trim pieces, mostly in the hatch.

dallison

The sticker on the hood says .10 mm intake and .18 exhaust +/- 2 for the adjustment. My dumb *** got a feeler gauge that i was standard.1-.18. I had to go out and get another.

jdmark1

iTrader: (2)

2-3 year old fuel? You should absolutely drain that. This shouldn't even be a question.

dallison

It looks like it's a simple drain plug. I'll hit it with something to break it loose and drain the 4 gallons or so that's in there.

dallison

I'm glad you insisted on draining the gas tank. There was only 3-4 gallons and it was pretty dark. It was real easy to drain it, i wasn't expecting that.



All belts are on and there is a new oil and fuel filter. Everything is buttoned up under the valve cover. The lower coolant hose was a PITA as the fan was giving me a **** fit as i was trying to remove it. Once i figured how to remove all that crap, it was pretty easy reassembling it.
I have to figure out what parts i might need for the breather chamber. I have to figure out how this one fits up. All of the other tubes i can figure out. To plug in the spark plug wires i need to find out which holes to plug them into.

So far it's a cool project.

dallison

Two questions......

where do these grounds get connected? The valve cover doesn't make sense and the adjustment for the ps belt doesn't either since i am guessing it's not tight. The other is, what goes on the other end of this black thing that looks like a breather?

dallison

It's all back together. The battery was dead so i was attempting to jump it which was going fine. I am not getting fuel to the fuel filter. I looked for a fuse but i think i'll have to look further. The car did run before it was disassembled.

I did put 5 gallons of fuel in and the battery is on the trickle charger. It was a BIATCH getting the intake nuts on. Tomorrow is another day. I need to pick up atf from the dealer and a stud for the lug nut. I was testing the old torque wrench on the lugnut at 20ftlb and it failed. Of course i broke off the bolt. Oh well, knock one out and put one in.

dallison

I loosened the fuel line and nothing was coming out. I was cranking it on and off for what seemed like a while. Do you think it will take longer than i think for the fuel to make it to the front?

thomass

fuel should come through within a few clicks of the key, I would check the main relay to see if its functional. check engine light should come on with the key then turn off within a couple seconds. that should prime the fuel pump. also check the ground at the thermostat housing I believe

dallison

The battery is a bit weak since the trickle charger was on it so i'll have to get the charger from work. It was holding about 9-10v at the fuel pump plug. the main relay clicks when i turn on the key and the fuel pump makes no noise. The soldering on it looks good too.

dallison

The check engine light goes off too. The tank is full of crud so i'll have to clean it out. What fuel pump should i replace it with? i see people recommend walbro, but i would think a denso, bosch, or delphi might work.

dallison

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WALBRO-255L...EAAOxyOM5RccuZ


Is this the right pump? Or would a 190 or any other stock pump work? I don't plan to modify it.

wunfstgsr

[QUOTE=dallison;52007736]Two questions......

where do these grounds get connected? The valve cover doesn't make sense and the adjustment for the ps belt doesn't either since i am guessing it's not tight. The other is, what goes on the other end of this black thing that looks like a breather?




Those 2 ground cables mount on the front radiator support. And the black rubber looks like its the PCV valve.

wunfstgsr

I wouldn't think its your actual fuel pump that's bad its prolly a ground issue or fuse.

dallison

[QUOTE=wunfstgsr;52009682]I had looked at other pics on the net and one did go on the hole on the valve cover, just not the one with a grommet. I fail to see how this would be a good ground since the valve cover doesn't connect to the motor since there is a rubber gasket between that and the motor. That and the head is aluminum which isn't a great conductor or ground in my experience. I had read somewhere else on the forum that the connections near the distributor could be something.

Everything worked before the tb went so the fuel pump doesn't make sense, but it also doesn't make any noise when the key is on. I'll have to check the grounds and harnesses later. I do remember that i only have one nut holding the fuel rail on since the other is mia. That's a good possibility too.

dallison

Now if i have juice going back to the fuel sender wouldn't that rule out a fuse or ground?

wunfstgsr

If there is power going to the fuel pump you should hear the fuel pump prime. It could be the main relay gone bad. Check for continuity. See where your loosing the signal. Make sure the plugs are plugged in the fuel pump., I once swapped out my fuel pump and forgot to put the harness plug in.