steezychristian

Hey guys, a little new to honda-tech. Been going here a lot to help me out with my problems. I have a 1991 Integra GS with a b20 swap. I bought it like this 3 months ago. Very new to cars and have been researching my *** off online. Checked around this forums and not much people have the same problem as me.

Occasionally my car wont start (just cranks). I'd say every 10 starts it wont start. At first I just pressed the gas while it was cranking then it would start. It has recently been getting worse and now it is taking longer to start, even while pressing down the gas. I've read on the forums that the main fuel relay could be the problem, but I don't think its an electrical problem because I have to press the gas( I could be wrong). I'm leaning more towards a fuel problem. I've tried to hear if the fuel pump would turn on when my car would only crank but it's hard to tell with my radiator fan bypassed to be always on. I plan on having a friend turn the key while I hear through the gas tank, but the car never seems to be at the right place when it wont start. So it's hard to diagnose. Any article links on how to check fuel pressure, diagnose injectors, and checking if fuel pump works all the time without having to listen for sound would help. Haven't really noticed check engine light. It would just blink when I turn on car for a little bit then go off, figure thats normal?

Sorry for the long write, just getting really confused/frustrated. Appreciate you guys for understanding. Any feed back would help

Oh and also, idk if this is connected to it but sometimes when I press the break it messes with my radio, kind of makes it studder

NemesisCBR

A check light would stay on. If you had a cel light before and disconnected the battery at some point it would stop it from coming on but the code would be stored i think. You could do the jumper and check to see if it threw any codes before and look them up.

I think theres a gauge you can buy that attaches to your fuel filter to check your fuel pressure but to adjust it you would need an adjustable fpr. You could inspect your spark plugs to see if they tell you anything. Check cap and rotor. Sometimes its just due for simple maintenance. If its getting worse over time, perhaps this is true.

fcm

Turn ign. switch to the run position, [not start] you should be able to hear the fuel pump run for a few sec., [priming] it will then turn off and the CEL will go out.

You can also try multiple primes, turn ign. switch to run, wait for pump to stop, turn ign. switch off and on again, wait for pump to stop and repeat, do this 3 or 4 times before you try and start the car, if that works it is a sign of a "weak" fuel pump, it can also be a sign of a problem with the PGM-FI Main Relay...
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html

Another possible problem is the ign. switch...
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html

Although the problem you have may not be one of the above, it is the first things I would check, even if just to eliminate them as the possible problem. 94

steezychristian

thanks for help. I'll try the the priming . I'll do it like 8 times since thats usually when my wont start. Hopefully this is will narrow my search. I'll get back to you with results.

steezychristian

I primed 5 times, I heard the fuel pump all times. Then started, it worked fine. Did it again but up to 8 times. Heard it all. Then started and it worked fine again. What i've noticed when my car would not start before is it was all usually in hot weather where my car has been sitting for a while, go be coindience. Idk. How can I further diagnose to narrow down the problem?

TheRealTegger

If the multiple-prime works consistently, then the check-valve in the fuel pump may be bad, allowing pressure to bleed-off too quickly after shutdown.

You should now try starting WITHOUT doing the multiple-prime. If the problem returns, then that points more definitely to a bad check-valve.

fcm

Try the multiple primes after car has been sitting in hot weather and it will not start.

Then to confirm that it is a fuel pressure issue, install a fuel pressure gauge, you can find them for as little as $20.

It will tell you if the problem is, as mentioned, the check valve, [no fuel pressure after sitting for a bit] or just a weak fuel pump, [low fuel pressure]. 94

steezychristian

Alright, ill try tomorrow when I leave from school. Just hope I don't get stuck especially in 100 degree weather. I have a feeling it probably wont start though, I'll keep you updated. I'll probably need a fuel gauge with me then? Bummer, limited budget. Also how exactly, do I install the fuel gauge, just found out where it was located through my haynes manual. thanks for the help

steezychristian

Nememiscbr: thanks, ill check out. I've never replaced or even inspected spark plugs/distributor cap and rotor. How do i go about this?

steezychristian

Do you think so? It's hard to tell. I've started my car 2 times seems fine. Like i stated, i've noticed it happening more so if my car has been sitting in hot weather. so it's hard to diagnose on the spot.

NemesisCBR

Youll want to do this test then during an occassion where it doesnt start. That will give you a better idea but it doesnt help you in the fastest time frame. So basically if you try to start your car as normal and it doesnt start, you give it the multiple prime steps then if it starts you have a good indicator and then you have a potential saver against being stuck. Once it starts it doesnt die right?

The distributor cap has 3 screws, just lossen them up (they stay on the cap) and pull the cover off, the rotor will be exactly that, a rotor, just underneath that. It spins and the metal edge makes contact with the metal prongs underneath the cap. Simple maintenance and inexpensive to replace if theyre worn.

To check spark plugs you just pull the plug wire out and use a socket with extention to loosen and remove the spark plug. Youll also need a socket designed for spark plug removal. Only $5-6 at your parts store. I just bought another one the other day. Be sure to buy the proper size drive for your ratchet.

steezychristian

Results! So it is definitely the heat that is causing this no start. Right after school, after car has been sitting for 7 hours in straight sun ( 95 degrees) it wouldnt start. I managed to get it to start by pressing gas again. So I went home, bought a solder iron and solder. Took out the MFR, was a bitch especially with that coin tray(btw is the coin tray necessary? i find it really a nuisance). Resolderd it. I think i did an okay job, took a while and think I did too much on a few tips. Anyways I put it back and car started fine, but thats because it was sitting in my garage and its not hot. So the real test is tomorrow, when i try to start in the heat. Will get back to you. thanks guys.

steezychristian

Ok, no time today but ill check tomorrow. yeah it actually did die right away when my car wouldn't start( mentioned above). Sometimes it doesnt tho( it just cranks). I'll see the results tomorrow when i try to start car again in heat. hopefully resoldering the MFR will do something! fingers crossed. keep you updated. thanks

edit: also what should I look for when inspecting spark plugs?

steezychristian

results: So my car started first try in the heat today, after school. Very happy. The weather wasnt as hot as the other days but it still made the car hot. Hopefully this is a permanent fix. I'll get back to you guys if the car doesnt start again. Thanks for all your help

NemesisCBR

I could tell you what little i know but id also be half assing an explanation. You can find tons of threads on reading spark plugs on the forum but it might be faster to google reading spark plugs. Ive done research both ways to get as much info as possible. It gets pretty detailed in what to look for and i would still need a professionals opinion in some comparison. I know mine was running lean cuz its coated in white and a mechanic said that about it. Do the search though.. youll find out its almost like fingerprints lol.

BigDaddyRich

Are you sure you are not low on Intake air at cold start? Check to make sure you are getting enough air along with the fuel pump working and injectors firing. Simply pressing the pedal will allow more air into the throttle body. I would check the TB plate adjustment screws to be safe.

steezychristian

Ok, ill do that. I'll get back to you on how my spark plugs look when I inspect, been pretty busy now. Car is working fine since I resolderd the MFR. Thanks

steezychristian

Pretty sure I'm getting good air at cold start. My rpm surges at cold start to like 2500. Been trying to fix this problem but it hasnt really been that much of a problem since its only cold start. It would generally cold down to 1200 or lower when warmed up. I fixed the starting problem by re-soldering the MFR but I would still like to check the TB plate adjustment screws, where are those located?