CarsAndGuitars

Hello all,

I'm finally ready to turbo my baby. It's a 95 with 103k original miles. I can realistically afford to spend 5-6k on this project, but would prefer to spend less. I'm looking to make 250+ whp. I'm debating on whether or not I should bother doing any internal work. Seems like it may be unnecessary for my power goals. I also am dead set on keeping a/c and power steering! The parts list that I made about 6 months ago was about 5k plus I budgeted an additional 1k for shop work/tuning. I plan on doing much of the labor myself and only expect to have shops doing the machine work if necessary.

Here's the parts list I made awhile back, tell me what's overkill and/or should be different...

Wiseco Pistons, eagle rods,
pins, rings head gasket 900

Honda oem rod and main bearings 160
GE Sleeving 1100
Garrett gt3071 Turbo 1200
Piping 140
Aem Af guage w/boost 300
3 bar MAP 30
Ecu chip/zif socket 250
Arp head studs 130
Hks ssqv Bov 100
Tial 38mm Wastegate 250
Injectors, fuel pump 400
Intercooler 200
Tuning/misc 1000

Total 6160


Thanks in advance!

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

250 whp even 350 can be had for much cheaper.

1st thing 1st is what motor do you have right now and is it healty?

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

Also you need to budget for chasis componets

Whp is useless with out the right supporting mods to the drivetrain and suspension


In your list there is no clucth chamber kit wheels tires noted.

Come back with more info on what you have done now and more importantly what motor you have.

CarsAndGuitars

It's a b18c1. Compression is 205-210 on all cylinders. The car only has 103k. Bought it from the second owner who had it since 97. It is lowered. Not sure how much. Engine is all stock except short ram intake and greddy header and 2.5 inch exhaust. I already had to replace the clutch and took that opportunity to upgrade knowing I would boost later. It has a competition clutch stage 4 and a 12lb competition flywheel. Both secured with arp bolts car also has an oil psi gauge. Everything else is bone stock.

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

Well if your goal is a measly 250-300 whp I would keep the bottom stock for now
Get good springs retainers valves, head studs. Maybe think about a Itr cam(but Gsr would make that power easy) skunk2 intake manifold. 3/4 bar map. Good injectors, 340 intake. And a turbo kit of your choice. Hondata s300 chamber kit all around and some good suspension for what ever the car would be used for.

If you insist on doing work to the bottom end because you will get board with 300 whp then I would keep stock sleeves and go 81.5 with good pistons and like an egale rod.

Just my .02 but this would all be cheaper than your pervious list and have an all around good power. The size of turbo would also be important. If you are serious I would give Mac his user name is the shodan a pm he can fix you up with the right turbo for the job.

Hope this helps.

CarsAndGuitars

Thank you. This helps a lot! As far as valves, springs, and retainers, do you have any suggestions? Also, you mentioned the skunk2 intake mani but then said 340 intake. Are these 2 different parts? Sorry if thats a dumb question, still learning. also, I assume a wideband setup and an egt gauge are still needed with this setup for tuning?

CarsAndGuitars

Also thought I should add that my intended use for this car is street. I don't plan on drag racing it, just want it to be more fun.

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

I ment intank fuel pump.

Schister66

Read the Forced Induction FAQ and hang out in that forum for a while...you'll learn a few things. First of all, you dont need aftermarket sleeves (or even a piston/rod build) for your power goal. A stock internal B series will handle 300whp all day. If you're intent on building it, that's not a bad safety net, but the sleeves are overkill.

Second, the turbo is a great choice; however, for your power goal its maybe not the best choice. You could save some money and opt for a T3/T04e 50 trim and make the same power OR size down to a GT2871r instead. There are T3 versions of the GT28r which makes manifold selection much simpler.

Third, what manifold are you planning to run? I didnt see anything in the parts list at the top. If this were my setup, I would opt for a good shorty ramhorn (which can be AC and PS compatible). There are also a few ramhorn/prototype style manifolds that would work with AC/PS but they tend to get pricey ($6-700+ for just the manifold).

You have the right budget for your project and goals...now to refine the parts list and start buying things. I'd definitely check out the Forced Induction forum before doing anything...

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me