shandonwall

Ok, I just wrapped up the swap on my 92 DA RS. I threw a b17 with GSR YS1 trans in it. I just got it fired up and running after 5 long weeks of Wisconsin Winter Cold (the last 4 days were in the 40's and 50's for a change.) Alright, here's the deal. When I start up the car cold, it starts just fine. It runs until it gets warm then starts to bog down. My TB spring is kind messed up, I have to fix that I know. But when the car had reached Normal Operating Temp (NOT) and then shut down to do a compression test (motor needs rebuild, cyl pressures 1-4 as follows: 98.5, 92, 88, 119) the car wouldn't hot start. I have to unplug the main relay, crank it for about 30 seconds to get rid of the fuel pressure, plug in the main relay, crank it, then it starts, but sluggish. Vaccum lines are correct i believe, the small one on my TB goes to fuel pressure regulator, the Map goes to vacuum fitting on Manifold. Emissions canister has been taken out. all sensors are plugged in and the values are to Honda Spec. The only things I have yet to do are adjust the valve lash and reset the TPS to .5 at close and 4.5 at WOT. ( i think those are the correct values). I am not sure what fuel rail pressure is while the car is running yet either. But still, the engine bogs down as it gets warmer. Okay, so thats my engine deal, here's my other deal.

I have OEM JDM Stanley one piece headlights and I need to know if the fog lights are supposed to turn off when I switch on the high beams. They work fine when the low beams are on, but as soon as I switch on the highs, the fogs turn off. Is this how it is supposed to be?? Or is there a way I can wire them so they won't turn off when the high beams are on?

slo blue

the motor you just put in only has 90-120 psi compression? with the hot start problem test the coolant temp sensor it is a 2 pin on the side of the head. at 68* the sensor should have around 2500 ohms of resistance. if the sensor is showing cold when the coolant is hot the ecu will call for more fuel than needed and with low compression it makes it hard to start.

shandonwall

The thing is, this motor hasnt been used for over two years. When I bought it, the head was off, so I went ahead and had the head machined, put new gaskets in and brake cleaned every inch of the block inside and out (don't worry, the motor was oil primed prior to start up). What wasn't brake cleaned was hot tanked. This is my new project, I'm just getting it running for this year. I've got a motor in the works which will go in during the winter of 2009-2010. I bought this car as a shell and I needed to get a motor in to make sure everything worked, electrically, so I didn't go and build a motor then find out there were problems later. I just need to get this thing running right so I can drive it for the summer. The compression was a lot lower (atleast 10-15%) when I first tried it before getting it running!! I'm thinking the valves need to be seated again and that the rings are completely dry. Im not even sure that the intake manifold, rail, and TB are PR3 items. I'm going to swap all that out if I still run into problems.

MD426

Something is not right, a b17 is supposed to be a higher compression vtec motor, my b18a1 has cylinder pressures 165psi +/- 5psi. Piston rings, head gasket, or valves are not working properly.

I bet your engine was doged on and beaten until it died and they sold it under false pretense.

redpreludesi

i have the one peices as well and ya you can wire them individualy but im not sure how my friend did it and mine never turned off when i turned my hight beams on? but they can wire up seperatly to the oem switch

2ndgentegracer

Stock the high beams are supposed to turn off. You can wire them up not to. Go to G2IC.com there is a write up.

shandonwall

Thanks all, I know the compression deal is bad, but I picked up the swap super cheap with a hydro ls trans, sold that for $400, it also came with a jdm p72 ecu and I sold that for $160. So basically I got a running (albeit weak) B17 for less than $500. I've put about $200 in parts (gaskets, dizzy, misc small stuff). I paid $2000 for the rust free shell, the YS1 GSR cable trans, the one piece headlights, and the RSR cat-back. So, I've got like $2700 or so into this rust free DA!!! I'm sure that the compression being weak will throw some stuff off, but it still should run good enough until I throw a rebuilt motor in there. I'm thinking ls/vtec, but maybe I should just pick up a b16 and a head and go to town??? I'm really weary off ls/vtec's. I want something that can scream and be safe to occasional 9k rpm blasts. I might go turbo. I dont know yet. Turbo would be fun though.

I saw that thread about the fog light wiring on G2IC. I'll try it. Thanks again everyone.

MasterLsGod

pics????

shandonwall

Yeah, check out my build pics, car isn't quite done yet!!

http://s719.photobucket.com/albums/w...all/DA%20Pics/