BoostedB20b

Hey guys just need some input right now. Ok, im lookin at buying this 91 DA. Just need other input before i even spend the money. Ok here it goes. It's obviously obd0. It's got a b16a2 and an obd1 p30 ecu. The motors got cam gears that have never been messed with, after market valve springs and retainers, and 440cc injectors. Here's the thing though, he used to have stage three cams in it so he got a chip and tuned it for there use. Then he took em out and put stock cams back in it and put a different chip in it that he claims is a stock b16 settings. When you get up to about 5000 rpm's it starts to spit and sputter and doesn't really move, but if you ease on the pedal slowly it climbs more smoothly but still not the way it should see what i'm sayin. Also at idle it's kinda rough. He used an obd0-obd1 jumper harness on the p30. He says the only difference is the distributor. I thought the intake manifolds might be dif also but i don't know. No check engine light and i know it works so the first thing i was thinkin was that those 440's are dumpin to much fuel in and it can't handle it. I was also thinking it may be ignition timing. Could be a few dif things but i can't really mess with it cause it's not mine yet. I just want some other input before i spend the loot so if anyone can help me out i'd appreciate it. Thanks for your time.

BoostedB20b

Come on now people. I'm sure that out of all of you that read these post everyday someone has came across the same sorta problem in the past as i have here. I really need some answers here!

slammedeewagon

sounds like a dizzy my untuned b20 turbo sputtered out around 4500 and when i went to get a tune it did the same then i put a dizzy on, works great id say buy a dizzy and try it.

SlammedDC2teg

Skip that car and go to another. Buy on that is all stock and have your way with it. I dont know why you would down grade form an LS motor to a b16.

neardon

Downgrade? Some people just want to buy a NEWER motor. Although he could have made a better choice I don't see how a motor that is probably lower millage and newer could be a downgrade, because its not. Don't be dumb.

Thats besides the point. OP you neep to take out those injectors put stock ones, then try to find someone with a stock ecu to try out and see if that helps your problems.

loudassVTEC

If I really like the car, and I really got a good deal on it, I'd buy it. I'm sure it probably doesn't need too much to get it running right again. You might have to sink some money into a new dizzy or a set of injectors, but other than that, it sounds like it just needs to be tuned again. Get it on the dyno, and have it tuned. I'd start with injectors, since the p30 is calibrated for a stock b16, and prolly for stock injectors. At part throttle, the 440 injectors might let you get up in the rpm band, but at WOT, they might be bogging it down. Check your plugs...if they are black and have a lot of soot on them...this is prolly your problem. If that doesn't fix it, get the new dizzy. If that doesn't work, then I'd say dyno tune it.

I'd definitely think twice before buying this car though. You gotta figure that its been messed with, the engine was cracked open, its had parts replaced, and you don't know who did the work, or if they knew what they were doing. Its gotta swap in it, and it had cams, so you know someone ran the dog **** out of it. Do you really want to spend the money, fix the driveability problem...only to find out that the engine doesn't last long because its been ragged on? The choice is up to you, but if it were me, I'd see if I could find something stock, or at least hasn't had the engine messed with. Just my $.02

BoostedB20b

Well either way you look at it i'm getting the better end of the deal cause he's got a brand new set of rota's (no tires), the cars really clean, he only wants 2g's for everything and i already have a b20b with a cable b16 trans and i was kinda thinkin about a b20 vtec. I just need to drive it until i get a few things for the build. I'm pretty sure i can just throw my b20 injectors in the b16 but maybe not. I don't know, let me know what you think.

loudassVTEC

You could easily swap in your b20, and have a clean, good running car. What injectors do you have in the b20? If they are stock, and obd-1 injectors, its not going to work, unless when he converted the car to OBD-1, he took out the resistor box, and changed to saturated injectors (doubtful). 90-91 Integras came with peak and hold injectors. If your b20 injectors are stock, then just run the ones that come with the Integra you are buying. I'm pretty sure that the injectors have the same flow rate. It'll save you some wiring, and headache if you do it like that. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need me to explain it more...glad to help a fellow DA driver!

BoostedB20b

My b20 injectors im pretty sure came from an LS because I used a resistor box in my last car. I actually still have it. You tellin me to use the 440's in the b20? The kid actually just said it's still got the resistor box also. I just need to get the car running normal so I can drive it for a bit. I need time to get parts for either a b20 vtec, building the b16 or just building the b20 for boost. I don't know yet thats why I just want to make this car run for now. I don't know man let me know what ya think.

90SiReX

a b16 in a da is a cow : / id get the car pull the head sell the block with the block money get ur b20v kit slap ur head on it run ur cable b16 trans and have a ball

DAcraze

Hey check your timing. my DA did the same thing after a B16 SWAP. it turned out to be my distributor. A b16 is fine for the DA its all about what u want out of the car. **** if u got a b20 layin around, go for the b20/VTEC. do you man

loudassVTEC

That's also a good idea! B20-V is a good setup!

I had a b16 in my DA, and it was way faster than the LS. a half second better e.t. in the 8th, more pull, just much faster. Still a turd down low, but up over 5k, it ripped pretty good I thought. I was just running stock internals, and some bolt-ons.