When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
just chiming in to say blox sold me a really crappy tps and didn't stand by their product!
as in no reply at all! surprised they are still around.
i will bash them mercilessly forever!
dorman tps ftw!
Yeah, that would be odd. I may try the ratchet.....only not my fine wrenches, but one of a pile of Stillman wrenches I have laying around. Maybe though, when I'm putting it back together.
Tonight I moved the PS pump out of the way, removed the fans and radiator....detatched the AC lines, so I'll remove the header in the morning. Real progress.
.
.
Only took off the header
...my b18c doesn't have an exhaust bracket. I think the one from my A1 is the same, except larger bolts.
Took out the clutch cable.
All the rubber is in bad shape, breaking apart.
Disconnected the throttle cable.
That was easy, same as a cb750.
Got the fuel lines disconnected from the filter.
That was difficult....been on there a long time....had to take it off the firewall to get the leverage.
I've got a few more things off this morning, but....
At the moment I'm looking up how to get the speed sensor out. I only see one bolt, in the white circle (in shadow) and it looks like it's got a lock nut like an adjuster. I'm not sure about that yet. I'll open the books on it shortly. I'm also hoping not to remove the power steering lines attached to it.
This leads me to another thing. When I was talking to Steve at HMO about keeping my power steering, he told me to put my speed sensor on the gsr engine. I hope so, but from the first look of it, I'm not to sure it'll go on the b18c.
Any ideas, comments or first hand knowledge would be very appreciated.
I'm hitting my books on both issues.
.
If you look closely, there should be a pin holding the speedo cable it. After that's removed, it should just slide out! The entire assembly should only be held on with 1 10mm bolt.
If you look closely, there should be a pin holding the speedo cable it. After that's removed, it should just slide out! The entire assembly should only be held on with 1 10mm bolt.
Yeah, in my service manual I found the one 10mm bolt and removed it. The assembly still won't come out. Does the cable have to come out too, to get the assembly out? Can't see the pin.
In the mean time, I'm removing the starter to give me some wiggle room.
.
Yeah, in my service manual I found the one 10mm bolt and removed it. The assembly still won't come out. Does the cable have to come out too, to get the assembly out? Can't see the pin.
In the mean time, I'm removing the starter to give me some wiggle room.
.
IIRC the pin is under that rubber dust cover around the cable. The 'housing' has a rubber o-ring that may require a little wiggle/pry action (gently) to pop from the hole. I wouldn't think the cable has to come out first but, I had always removed the cable first.
IIRC the pin is under that rubber dust cover around the cable. The 'housing' has a rubber o-ring that may require a little wiggle/pry action (gently) to pop from the hole. I wouldn't think the cable has to come out first but, I had always removed the cable first.
Ok, I know where to look, but the assembly is stuck. It helped to remove the starter, but stuck is stuck. I'll try and get at the pin first.
I've been spraying it to try and clean it up a bit....so I can see it better.
I hope not to cut the cable. I don't even know if you can get an aftermarket.....much less pulling the cluster out.
Don't want to get air in PS lines either.
.
I think tomorrow I'll try and rotate it one more time. If it doesn't, I'll pull the cable (hopefully), remove and plug the PS lines and not worry about it until the engine is out.
.
There is no rotating the VSS. The speedo cable came off, but not the PS lines. I cut and plugged them. Can still get the speedo cable and I think I may get one. It depends on if I can use this VSS. What's the alternative? Getting a DC2 Cluster? I've read something about that. I hope not.
Many of these lines have been in place for the entire life of the car and don't come off. More cutting then I'd like, but it's the only option.
The heater valve just about the rear engine mount. Do I have to try and move that stuff, or will the engine more forward enough to go around it? I think it will but the angles are going to change as I raise it. I expect every bolt on the rear mount will have to come off on both sides.
.
Everything is disconnected from the engine. Now I have to rearrange the front of my garage to have room for two engines.
I do have an engine leveler on my hoist...tho it's a cheapy and hard to rotate for different angles. The heater valve may be in the way and my AC lines are in the way, and those lines are seized onto their fittings.
I know you can move the low pressure AC line some, but the high pressure line is solid.
Neither will budge with my two large open-end wrenches. I would probably have to have two large tube wrenches to disconnect them from the firewall.
I'll need to move the engine at least 4 to 6 inches toward the drivers side to avoid bending the high pressure AC line. This is my first time doing anything like this (except air-cooled VWs), so will I likely damage the AC lines or water valve? I know with the leveler, I can bring the driver's side up higher in order to move toward the driver's side. Is that what I have to do?
.
I went back through the book, there were a couple things I hadn't done....like the battery base....
It's all done, but I was waiting till the end to pull the shift linkage off the trans. The pin is out so I thought oh, nothing to it. I already got the torque rod off easy enough, but for the shift linkage the trans part of it just slides back and forth when trying to pull the linkage off.
The book says nothing else....so does that mean I have to remove a screw at the other end where the shifter is? The exhaust and particularly, the exhaust sheild is in the way and everything there is pretty rusty too. It really makes me mad that manuals leave out details like that.
.
Nope. No dice on this '90LS. I managed to remove the bolt holding the shift linkage to the shift lever....put a wedge in to hold it at an angle, then I could put a combo 12mm on the nut side and a ratchet on the other. It came out, but the shift linkage will NOT move far enough back to come of the transmission shaft. I even tried clamping onto that trans shaft with small vise grips and hammering it toward the front. That didn't work. It almost feels like there a little groove on the shaft that has to pop loose. Maybe, maybe not but there's not enough travel. There actually a stop on the back of the shift linkage to keep it from moving further.
.....and now that I have the bolt out of there too, or either way. I'm not going to lift the engine and try and pull it out with the hoist. I want everything detached before the hoist come in to play. The only way is to figure out how to hang the exhaust (it's one piece from the cat back) by myself and remove the exhaust shield.
never messed with a da before but if its a shift linkage and not shift cables than yes once you remove the bitch pin it should slide right off. I guess the car sat for a while so yeah a battle will need to occur when dealing with this,
.
When I decided to do this swap I knew I might run into these kind of problems. It's about 30, and when I got it in 2013 at 145k very little besides regular maintenance had been done.
That doesn't mean I'm happy about all the extra....side tracks, but it should make a difference in the long run.
.... taking to long tho, I'll be handling icy tools soon.
.
10-19-2019, 09:12 AM
Re: '90 Integra GSR
