Pancho2193

1994 Automatic b18b1 Acura Integra.140k Miles Stock everything.

Straight to the point. I have a check engine light come on about 10 minutes after driving or when its warmed up. I tried jumping the little blue plug, and the check engine light stays solid it doesn't flash or anything. After wiggling it around turning the car on and off it starts flashing. It flashes 6 times, so I naturally look it up and 6 flashes means code 6 "Engine Temperature Coolant".

Anyways the car will randomly not want to start after its been warmed up.

Here are the things I've replaced so far:
-Distributor Cap
-Spark Plug Wires
-Rotor
-Air Filter
-PCV Valve
-Thermostat
-ECT Sensor
-Oil
-Spark Plugs
-Oil Filter


After replacing the distributor cap and rotor, I noticed that rotor was worn very unevenly, and it sounds as if something is making unnecessary contact inside the distributor while the car is on. Kind of like a clunking/scratching noise.


What is this? I'm stumped I need help, I have 2 weeks to get this car ready and reliable for my wife before I leave to bootcamp. What could be causing this un-even distributor rotor wear? Almost as if the rotor is hitting something it shouldn't causing it to look all deformed. Maybe the distributor is bad?

B_Swapped93

So the old rotor was worn strangely ? check the new one out and make sure the screw is in tight. My 2nd guess is igniter or coil starting to go(#8 #12), since you say it likes to do it once it's been armed up and you try and start it again. here http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda..._systems_1.php


https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faq-how-replace-test-your-ignition-coil-icm-igntion-control-module-1430824/ but I would also inspect all your grounds and make sure every thing is tight.

Pancho2193

Good News, the ECT code is gone, but now I'm getting code #9 No. 1 cylinder position (CYP sensor). I think that has something to do with the distributor shaft rotating the rotor unevenly. The rotor looks like it even sits unevenly kind of like when you have a bent rim on a bicycle, that's what I think is happening here.

Should I just go about trying a new distributor?

B_Swapped93

Considering a new distributed can e had for 120 yes or just borrow a different one. It's one of those things that can't be replaced in side the dizzy.

Pancho2193

Okay just swapped out the distributor, and the car still randomly won't start! Almost as if theres no fuel? What the heck, this thing is a money pit

Pancho2193

WHAT THE FLUCK! This car is going to give me an anxiety attack!I'm so much money into this car and I can't get to the bottom of it why? First off I can't get an actually code reading why? The only way the light flashes is if the car is ON! As in running. If I just turn the key on, the CEL just stays solid

tamboo

test your coil:

http://107.imagebam.com/download/zOK...ture%20098.jpg

you'll need an icm eventually might as well carry a spare:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...198&cc=1000382

Pancho2193

Coil is good, I Just swapped out the entire distributor.

The check engine light stays solid unless the car is turned on, does that mean its a CEL that is not being stored? Threes a clunking noise coming directly from the manifold what could that be?

Pancho2193

I'm stuck, I'm tired of replacing parts without properly diagnosing the problem. It's burning a hole in my wallet, and I'm slowly running out of money.

Where should I Start now? Do I Start by checking the fuel Pump? Why does it randomly not want to start?

Pancho2193

Found the rattling noise inside the manifold! It was some aluminum cover. Theres no way it goes to the manifold, someone must've tossed it in there.