Changing Rotors at the Track
This is semi off-topic, but I noticed some folks talk about changing the rotors at the track. Recently when I was considering replacing my wheel studs, I found out the two "rotor retaining screws" are nearly impossible to get out with all the rust and heat fusion.
How do you guys do this? do you repace those screws each time? do you use an impact wrench?
How do you guys do this? do you repace those screws each time? do you use an impact wrench?
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From: boldly scornful of higher mental function, US
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FifthGearOnline »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">impact driver?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Impact screwdriver. Available at any hardware store.
Takes some practice to get good with one, but it's pretty simple. Put in phillips bit, place on screw, turn handle 1/4 turn left and start beating on it with a hammer.
Make sure you keep your thumb out of the way.
edit:
Failing this method, drill them out.
/had to do this more than once.
Impact screwdriver. Available at any hardware store.
Takes some practice to get good with one, but it's pretty simple. Put in phillips bit, place on screw, turn handle 1/4 turn left and start beating on it with a hammer.
Make sure you keep your thumb out of the way.
edit:
Failing this method, drill them out.
/had to do this more than once.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FifthGearOnline »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">impact driver?</TD></TR></TABLE>

can be found at most, if not all automotive stores. i think mine was like $8.

can be found at most, if not all automotive stores. i think mine was like $8.
Impact driver and a short handle 4-lb sledge. Spray the screws w/ PB blaster and let them soak first. Dont buy cheap ones though, they wont get the job done.
once you get them out.. use anti-seze on them and don't tighten them down when you put them back in.
I swap my rotors at every track event... and have not had an issue.
(granted my ITR is a southern non-winter car).
I swap my rotors at every track event... and have not had an issue.
(granted my ITR is a southern non-winter car).
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">once you get them out.. use anti-seze on them...</TD></TR></TABLE>
doh! I put new screws in mine and forgot the anti-seize
Hopefully they'll come out easy tomorrow when I go to get my rotors resurfaced
doh! I put new screws in mine and forgot the anti-seize
Hopefully they'll come out easy tomorrow when I go to get my rotors resurfaced
What is the real point of putting the screws back in? Both the caliper and the wheel itself hold the rotor on, and if either of those two items are missing or loose, you probably have a little more to worry about than a loose rotor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krshultz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I suppose it makes it marginally easier to do a pad change since the rotor isn't all moving around down there. Me, I threw them away years ago.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, those of us who street our track cars do quite a few pad swaps... I leave mine in.
Yep, those of us who street our track cars do quite a few pad swaps... I leave mine in.
The guys thats I crew with for 12 hrs at the point dont use the rotor screws and I ******* hate it. Changing pads with smoking rotors is bad enough with them in.
I too like to have one in there, keeps the rotor from moving around too much when you are changing pads. Might just try using one of them and a little anti-sneeze.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They came with the car, so I leave them in *shrug*</TD></TR></TABLE>
if it doesn't keep you in, the rain out, or the engine running, its just useless weight
in regards to making pad changing difficult - why not keep a screw laying around, thread it in when the pads are coming off to hold it in place, and then remove it when you're done?
if it doesn't keep you in, the rain out, or the engine running, its just useless weight
in regards to making pad changing difficult - why not keep a screw laying around, thread it in when the pads are coming off to hold it in place, and then remove it when you're done?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it doesn't keep you in, the rain out, or the engine running, its just useless weight
in regards to making pad changing difficult - why not keep a screw laying around, thread it in when the pads are coming off to hold it in place, and then remove it when you're done?</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL and
in regards to making pad changing difficult - why not keep a screw laying around, thread it in when the pads are coming off to hold it in place, and then remove it when you're done?</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL and
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
in regards to making pad changing difficult - why not keep a screw laying around, thread it in when the pads are coming off to hold it in place, and then remove it when you're done?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I do, I leave one in the best place for me to find it ... in that hole in the hat of the rotor. You guys seem to make stuff awefully complex sometimes
in regards to making pad changing difficult - why not keep a screw laying around, thread it in when the pads are coming off to hold it in place, and then remove it when you're done?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I do, I leave one in the best place for me to find it ... in that hole in the hat of the rotor. You guys seem to make stuff awefully complex sometimes


