I have to replace my release bearing and Ive never doen my own work being as this is my first car. But I also dont have $1300 to get this ****** fixed so Im doing it myself.

Heres some pics I took, from under my car hoping you guys could label them with what has to be removed and in which way, Im not to familiar with the name either.

Here the pics, axles and tranny are the only problem Im going to have.

Thanks










Engine Bay Mounts



Thanks For The Help
ps- my camera sucks and Im in a hurry

 

You were gonna drop your tranny right?

give me a sec to edit your pics.

 

read my swap guide, there is good info there on how to remove the axles,

also download a helms manual and look at the tranny removal section!
http://www.carenthusiast.com/c...l.pdf

 

Loosen the castle nut in the circled [BOLD]RED[/BOLD] area till its at the last few threads. Then take a hammer and hit the crap out of the [BOLD]GREEN[/BOLD] circled area until the knuckle in the red area is resting directly against the loosened castle nut in the red circle. Once its knocked loose the ball joint should be seperated and you can take off the castle nut in the red circled area completely and then remove the axel. Repeat on both sides. - Darrell

ps - https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=939636 <~ go there for my guide to removing crx/ef tranny's.

 

Here are the main things that could confuse yo if you dont know what you are looking at, all the other parts are pretty easy to swap.

1) loosen front lugs, jack car up, then remove front lugs, remove front tires
2) drain transmission fluid, look for lower drain nut on tranny case. loosen with a ratchet (stick the ratchets square peg in the drain plugs square socket.
3) remove 32mm axle spindle nut, undo the retaining dent first
4) remove damper fork upper bolt #1 in the pic (14mm?)
5) remove damper fork nut and bolt, tap out bolt #2 in pic (17mm?)
6) remove damper fork so it's not in the way
7) remove castle nut from lower ball joint #3 in pic
8) seperate lower ball joint from lower control arm. You can use a "pickle fork" and place it under the LBJ boot, but be careful not to tear the ball joint boot.
9) Once LBJ is loose, seperate hub from axle. I was able to lightly tap out my axle with a rubber mallet. Dont hit it too hard oor you will mushroom the axle end. Use an axle puller if you cant tap it out.
10) use a large and long prybar to pry out the axle from the tranny

And there you go, the rest is pretty straight forward.

Remove intake, arm, battery and battery support, unplug any wiring going to tranny, remove ground wires, remove clutch cable remove speedo gear from tranny, remove shift linkage extension and shift linkage--requires removal of bitch pin (search H-T for bitch pin).

instalation of the tranny is the reverse of removal. Make sure you have Iat least 3 qrts of MTF. I have a suction gun that I use to fill the tranny fluid, got it for a few bucks at NAPA.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCZCCRXSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Loosen the castle nut in the circled [BOLD]RED[/BOLD] area till its at the last few threads. Then take a hammer and hit the crap out of the
ps - https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=939636 &lt;~ go there for my guide to removing crx/ef tranny's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

whatever you do, do not do it like this unless you want to replace your ball joints while your at it.

 

I LOVE YOU GUYS!!

I knew this would be a good idea

Is it really that bad to smack the **** out of that thing with a hammer?

 

just get a crow bar, and jam it between the lca and the knuckle, pull sharply up... it will pop loose. I do this every time and dont loose hardly any greese from the bushing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Traction &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I LOVE YOU GUYS!!

I knew this would be a good idea

Is it really that bad to smack the **** out of that thing with a hammer?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are talking about hitting the ball joint, then yes it is a bad idea. It could mushroom and then the castle nut might not be able to go back on. A pickle fork is only a few bucks at your local NAPA or Autozone. If you aren't careful people say it will tear your boot up. But this is the tool that I used to seperate my LBJ, and I did not tear the LBJ boot.

 

But for that idea, Im just loosening that nut almost right to the end, and me smacking on that arm will pop it loose and knock it down towards the nut?

Then what happens? I take the nut off and.....

Im seriously like a virgin at car work, and this is like getting broken by a black guy named Bubba without lube

 

way to help out guys!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCZCCRXSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

</TD></TR></TABLE>

To pop the ball joint, I have really good luck with a long pry bar.
The one I have has a flat end - like a flat end screw driver.
I shove it in on the lower control arm where the green box is in this pic.
I push down on the bar and pry up on the knuckle - right where the upper right corner of the green box is.
It hasn't failed for me yet and I've never destryed a LBJ boot this way.

I've tried all the regular methods and tools (about 5 ways that I can think of) and this works the best for me so far.

Just some info that might help you along.

 

In regards to hammering a ball joint out. You could loosen the nut till it gets on the end of the thread flush and then hammer it. The nut will protect the thread and head of the joint from mushrooming. This trick is done in my friends BMW shop all the time. The problem with fork ball joint removers is that they damage the boots.

 

You could just avoid disconnecting the Ball Joint totally; what I did was to remove the lower control arm from the frame instead of the balljoint and used the joint connection as a pivot to allow the arm to swing freely and move it out of the way. Saved a lot of time and trouble on my part.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could just avoid disconnecting the Ball Joint totally; what I did was to remove the lower control arm from the frame instead of the balljoint and used the joint connection as a pivot to allow the arm to swing freely and move it out of the way. Saved a lot of time and trouble on my part.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is what I did also. I had too much trouble getting the LBJ to seperate, so I just decided to go that route. It's a little longer, but much more straight forward.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To pop the ball joint, I have really good luck with a long pry bar.
The one I have has a flat end - like a flat end screw driver.
I shove it in on the lower control arm where the green box is in this pic.
I push down on the bar and pry up on the knuckle - right where the upper right corner of the green box is.
It hasn't failed for me yet and I've never destryed a LBJ boot this way.

I've tried all the regular methods and tools (about 5 ways that I can think of) and this works the best for me so far.

Just some info that might help you along.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, if you need to get it off this is exactly how I have always done it. Mest method in my opinion.
Ryan

 

yay, i never thought of doin it like this..ima do it this way when i swap my raxles in. my castle nut on the passanger side is stripped

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could just avoid disconnecting the Ball Joint totally; what I did was to remove the lower control arm from the frame instead of the balljoint and used the joint connection as a pivot to allow the arm to swing freely and move it out of the way. Saved a lot of time and trouble on my part.</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly

 

Can anyone modify the pics to do what these guys above are saying?

Im doing this myself this weekend to replace my throwout bearing

Need some help on what to do with the mounts aswell

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEA Hag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> exactly</TD></TR></TABLE>

Add another who does it that way.

 

18 hours til I try and drop my tranny as well

more info on this non ball joint removal way?

 

Ok here is what I did in this order. When re-installing it is reversed of course.


1) Remove the nut (#20 In the picture) holding the lower fork to the controlling arm. This nut needs to be replaced, some self locking doohicky and it is real cheap like $1 at the dealership.
2) You'll want to tap out the bolt (#18) with a hammer or a sledge since when the nut has been removed only the tension of the fork pulling up on the arm is holding it in.
3) Remove the two bolts (#19) holding the radius rod onto the control arm.
4) Remove the bolt (#16) that holds the lower control arm to the the frame; again you may have to hit it out after you clear the threads.
5) From this point the control arm should be free and the only thing attached is the balljoint. Just turn it out of the way and continue with everything else you need to do.

As I said, installation is the reverse, but you might want a friend when re-installing. I know i was able to pull the knuckle and into line with the lower fork, but for some it may be harder. What else, also I would recommend that you put the bolts in EXACTLY in the way you removed them. It'll make it a lot easier.

 

 

Im going to do this myself right now all day

Ill be back tonight with pics (probably start my own thread) on what I fucked up or dont get

Good luck traction