HowTo Pass BAR in CA w/ h22a in 1990 1991 1992 1993 Accord
I am writing this because 1) most people don't know what exactly you have to do to pass and 2) trying to do this I made a stupid mistake which others probably would do too
First you need to have the CRC valve and EGR Control Solenoid Valve from either your 4th gen accord or from your 4th gen lude h22 or h23, EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve from h22/h23, Air Boost/Starting Air Valve (same thing but goes by different names), EGR Valve that should come with your h22a, and everything else in the diagram below.

If you get a carb legal intake like AEM etc. the all you do on the Air Boost Valve is put a filter on and leave it alone. Also with aftermarket intakes, you do not need the Intake Control Solenoid Valve or the Intake Control Diaphragm located in the stock lude resonator. If you get a stock intake, then you will need the resonator and you need to connect the air boost valve to the nipple on the intake w/ a vacuum line.
Then you need to move the CVC valve and EGR Control Solenoid Valve to the lower right hand corner of the engine bay behind the drivers headlight. If you decided not to keep the cruise control then you are lucky and will have lots of space, otherwise I attached them to a piece of metal and attached that to where the wiper fluid resovoir would go. Also you will have to run wires to the EGR Solenoid to connect it to the harness near the fuse box.

Next you must mount the h22 or h23 map sensor on the firewall. I attached it to a piece of metal which connects to where the Emissions Box would be. Also, you will have to cut the plug off of the accord map sensor and rewire it to the h22/h23 map sensor wires. From the map sensor wires to harness wires, you need to connect Map Green -> Harness Red/White, M Red -> H Blue/White, M White -> H White/Blue. If you do not do this correctly, when you try to start your car it will run and sound like crap (actually it sounds pretty good, like when my dad first starts up his '70 Vette). You will also notice a lot of dark exhaust and Gas coming out of your exhaust...so do it correctly!!!

Last you need to attach the EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve to the firewall and wire it up. I used the same wires/plugs that were on the accord purge control valve. It holds well enough. I needed to get a new one however because the plastic nipple broke off as you can see by the red straw sticking out of the hole to connect it...which is also why it is not actually attached to the firewall.

Last make sure all of your vacuum lines are in the right spot and all plugged in. If you have an aftermarket intake then just cap off number 8 on the IM. This will get you to pass the visual, passing the emissions is another matter but shouldn't be a problem. Why the ref makes you move the map sensor and CVC and EGR Solenoid all the way accross the engine bay instead of leaving it nice and tidy in the box is beyond me. But that's how it is in smog-**** california.
This is what the bay looked like after the moves and my ghetto-fab wiring.
First you need to have the CRC valve and EGR Control Solenoid Valve from either your 4th gen accord or from your 4th gen lude h22 or h23, EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve from h22/h23, Air Boost/Starting Air Valve (same thing but goes by different names), EGR Valve that should come with your h22a, and everything else in the diagram below.

If you get a carb legal intake like AEM etc. the all you do on the Air Boost Valve is put a filter on and leave it alone. Also with aftermarket intakes, you do not need the Intake Control Solenoid Valve or the Intake Control Diaphragm located in the stock lude resonator. If you get a stock intake, then you will need the resonator and you need to connect the air boost valve to the nipple on the intake w/ a vacuum line.
Then you need to move the CVC valve and EGR Control Solenoid Valve to the lower right hand corner of the engine bay behind the drivers headlight. If you decided not to keep the cruise control then you are lucky and will have lots of space, otherwise I attached them to a piece of metal and attached that to where the wiper fluid resovoir would go. Also you will have to run wires to the EGR Solenoid to connect it to the harness near the fuse box.
Next you must mount the h22 or h23 map sensor on the firewall. I attached it to a piece of metal which connects to where the Emissions Box would be. Also, you will have to cut the plug off of the accord map sensor and rewire it to the h22/h23 map sensor wires. From the map sensor wires to harness wires, you need to connect Map Green -> Harness Red/White, M Red -> H Blue/White, M White -> H White/Blue. If you do not do this correctly, when you try to start your car it will run and sound like crap (actually it sounds pretty good, like when my dad first starts up his '70 Vette). You will also notice a lot of dark exhaust and Gas coming out of your exhaust...so do it correctly!!!
Last you need to attach the EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve to the firewall and wire it up. I used the same wires/plugs that were on the accord purge control valve. It holds well enough. I needed to get a new one however because the plastic nipple broke off as you can see by the red straw sticking out of the hole to connect it...which is also why it is not actually attached to the firewall.
Last make sure all of your vacuum lines are in the right spot and all plugged in. If you have an aftermarket intake then just cap off number 8 on the IM. This will get you to pass the visual, passing the emissions is another matter but shouldn't be a problem. Why the ref makes you move the map sensor and CVC and EGR Solenoid all the way accross the engine bay instead of leaving it nice and tidy in the box is beyond me. But that's how it is in smog-**** california.
This is what the bay looked like after the moves and my ghetto-fab wiring.
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holmesnmanny
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Dec 14, 2010 03:21 PM




