Stock Shitty Shitty braces Held to flanges by Weld.




New braces and Ceramic Cermafilm Coating

 

nice work

 

Thanx!

 

that did come out nice, good job mang

 

Why is everybody trying to make these work?

 

Here is my Revhard everyone is calling a SS autochrome

 

Just remember by bracing that manifold that way you are not allowing the material to grow.

Stainless likes to grow alot.

You need to rig a brace that allows the material to grow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kid-honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why is everybody trying to make these work?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because we can.

 

brace the turbo...not the manifold...when will people learn

 

Explain how you brace a turbo ?

 

That is what I way going to say. Yes you are bracing the manifold, but the dead weight is still at the turbo. What you want to do is make a brace from your turbo to your engine block and triangulate it so that the manifold is not holding the weight of the turbo, but rather your mounts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mpir3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brace the turbo...not the manifold...when will people learn </TD></TR></TABLE>

lets see pics of your brace.

 

ditto

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lets see pics of your brace.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very simple...I just welded a tab off the dp flange to an old bracket that held the ac condensor. I could pull the manifold off without the turbo moving one bit. there was no weight on the manifold. I didn't touch the braces on the manifold...adding more braces just moves the stress to another area that will eventually crack. I ran the manifold for a while No cracks...and made nice numbers too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mpir3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran the manifold for a while No cracks...and made nice numbers too </TD></TR></TABLE>

nice job. looks like a good easy-to-fab peice of insurance.

did you use an ssautocrap mani?

 

haha wasnt expecting you to actually post back with pictures

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

nice job. looks like a good easy-to-fab peice of insurance.

did you use an ssautocrap mani?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont be so judgemental please. If he got it to work. Then it aint Crap. If I got it to work, it aint crap. If many others got it to work, it AINT CRAP!

So me a thread with a "real ssauto mani" that has cracked with pics?

 

that collecter looks like ****

 

I've had one on my hatch for months now w/ a brace off my DP and dumptube and haven't had a single problem...(knock on wood).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by synik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont be so judgemental please. If he got it to work. Then it aint Crap. If I got it to work, it aint crap. If many others got it to work, it AINT CRAP!

So me a thread with a "real ssauto mani" that has cracked with pics? </TD></TR></TABLE>

judgemental? more like factual. It's not worth arguing over the quality of an extreemly low end manifold. You get what you pay for. i have some nasty pics - but it's just going to make this thread longer than it has to be.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

judgemental? more like factual. It's not worth arguing over the quality of an extreemly low end manifold. You get what you pay for. i have some nasty pics - but it's just going to make this thread longer than it has to be. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Im not saying its a great manifold but it is SO easy to fix the cracking issue....Ive seen pictures of $800-$1000 kooks manifolds from back inthe day all cracked up. Some people just can't understand that a thin walled manifold NEEDS the turbo/dp Supported. The manifold is NOT designed as the support.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by synik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dont be so judgemental please. If he got it to work. Then it aint Crap. If I got it to work, it aint crap. If many others got it to work, it AINT CRAP!

So me a thread with a "real ssauto mani" that has cracked with pics? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't have any pics, but the shop I worked for sold these religously. One of our customers had to reweld his about 3 times before getting a new manifold.

 

i think it looks nice and should hold well

 

One look at the merge collector justifies the name ssautocrap. But I guess if youre on a budget and you brace it it seems to be working for some people...

 

hey tho... theres some info to be gathered here from elusive...

Stainless expands when it gets hot... a lot... and thats why you can't use a standard brace because when it gets hot the brace itself will be causeing BIG forces in the manifold, bigger then the weight of a turbo would ever be.

so what is the way you guys (burns stainless) recommend to mount a turbo so that it moves, while still allows room to grow.

Seemed to me that the best way to do this is to use a slip collector ($), and physically mount the turbo seperately, thus allowing the manifold to slide in and out of the slip collector at will.

Even this however still limits the manifold from moving 2 directions, it can only expand straight in and out of the collector.

so whats the proper way? Just curious... I have a pipe fitting manifold now, and eventually want to sell it and build myself a 321 tubular piece w/ a slip collector.