Back again....

Went by Autozone and had them pull all codes from the ECU. Only Code thrown was for the EGR. I wrote the code down...but its at work, will get it later. The handheld said defective EGR.

I assumes this means that I need to replace the EGR valve. The part was $102. Not bad....figure the dealer will be twice that for the part alone.

Question: Do I need to clean anything (i.e.: port, runners, etc) while I am installing this? I actually have not located the EGR yet in the engine compartment, not even looked. On my Vette it was UNDER the Plenum and required total dissaembly. Will I be encountering the same dilema? I have been unable to find any TECH on the replacement and dont have a manual yet.


Could you guys steer me in the right direction for more info?

Thanks!

 

The Egr valve is on the intake side near the throttle body area.

 

Is it a 4 cyl, or V6? Makes a difference in procedures.

 

Try cleaning out the EGR ports in the intake manifold and cleaning out the valve it self. You may not need to replace it.

 

I had the exact same problem on my 96 EX 4cyl.; it's a code 401. I pulled off my EGR valve and cleaned it. I used carb cleaner, a wire brush, and a small dental pick.

Everything worked well for a couple thousand miles, then it threw another code just the other day.

Here's a few tips for when you pull it off:
1) You'll need a swivel socket or a ratcheting wrench. It was either 10 or 12 mm.
2) The gasket is easy to find (same as some domestic cars)
3) When cleaning it, I suggest submerging it in the solvent (I'm going to try Aircraft Cleaner on my next attemp) and letting it sit for a while.

If you need a picture of where it's located, just let me know. I can take a pic and post it later today.

 

Its a 4cyl, VTEC.


Hetfy.......Thanks for the info! I will try to get at it tommorow night. I have some solvent that should do the trick! I'll drop it in that for a few hours. Then clean the fool out of it......cant hurt it! I need the install practice anyway just in case I need a new one at a later date!

Hey....a pic is worth a thousand words! I have not lifted the hood since the original post, so I have still not located it yet......but I have an idea of where its at.

Thanks.....see you under the hood!

 

Here are a couple pictures. I forgot to mention that the swivel socket has to be shallow. There isn't much more than 3/4" clearance to get on that nut.

 

my 96 is throwing the same code.

so id i take the sensor off and spray the hole that the sensor covered with carb cleaner and wire brush the carbon out of it... it would fix my problem???? is there anything that needs to be done to the sensor??

 

From what I understand, there are 2 things that can cause the EGR valve to throw a code. Insufficent air flow, and a sensor malfunction.

Clean it exactly like you said, then keep an eye on your CEL for the next few thousand miles. If the car throws another code, then chances are your sensor is bad.

I was worth the hour of my time to clean the valve at first than buy a $100+ part.

 

I am throwing a similar code in my H22 swap in my 97 Accord. I am throwing a EGR Lift Solenoid....my friend says I do not need EGR anyways so we unplugged it but, my car runs hesitant sometimes until the check engine light pops on for the EGR Lift Solenoid code, then at least what I think in my mind it runs a little better. Anyone else have this problem or know what I should do to fix it? Thanks!

 

In my 97 H22A I get this code too. I have a obd1 conversion harness.. if I get a obd1 P72 will that get rid of the code on my 97.

I'll try to clean it with carb cleaner and a wire brush on my 96 and see what happens.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Frankie324 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
In my 97 H22A I get this code too. I have a obd1 conversion harness.. if I get a obd1 P72 will that get rid of the code on my 97.

I'll try to clean it with carb cleaner and a wire brush on my 96 and see what happens. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It will get rid of that code for sure. I had the same problem with my obd1 conversion harness. The b series swaps dont need pin a11 for egr. That's probably why you are throwing that code. Most conversion harnesses don't have that pin. I know for sure that mine doesn't have it. I recently used my p72 before it was socketed it for hondata, for a couple hundred miles, and the code never showed up with the p72 ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KNCRSR5R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I assumes this means that I need to replace the EGR valve. The part was $102. Not bad....figure the dealer will be twice that for the part alone.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


you could have gotten a new egr valve or related components to it for free if your car is under 150k miles this is only for 4 cyl yrs 96-97 emission warranty extension.

95 Accord V6 only
96-97 all models except Passport

an egr code doesn't always mean that the part itself is the problem.

 

well cant we just run the wire from a11 to the wires for ur egr system to get it to function??? im having the same problem on my 00 accord with h22a

 

EGR Wiring Info
USDM wire colors are the same as JDM.
Connector colors means that when looking at the connector (wire pointing towards you) that the way they should line up (From left to right)
EGR lift valve solenoid
(The connector colors, From left to right) BLK/YEL and RED
Sensor Voltage - BLK/YEL - goes to A25
ECU trigger - RED - goes to A11.
EGR Lift Sensor (the actual EGR on the intake manifold)
(The connector colors, From left to right) WHT/BLK, GRN/WHT, and RED/WHT
ECU trigger - WHT/BLK - goes to D12
Sensor ground - GRN/WHT - goes to D22
Sensor voltage - RED/WHT - goes to D19 or A25

 

and u wired up urs this way with no problems?

 

????

 

Yes sir.

 

thanks man im gonna try it out this weekend

 

I have the same problem and asked my local dealer to fix it - they said the warranty is only for 80,000 miles. Do you have any idea how to convince them to cover it under warranty - maybe a TSB number?

Thanks,

John