all motor h23 dyno results ( kinda sad)

Well.... over a year in the making and 2 lawsuits i finally get my car running and tuned... only to find that that jerk who put the motor together did a little miss calculation and gave me a little too much compression... so thats as much as we could get out of it on pump gas without crazy det!!
Setup is in the sig.... tuned at fast line motorsport in canton CT on a dynapack
to that whole operation... I am running a unichip piggyback... allows for both fuel and ignition curve modification as well as idle control.... i was pretty impressed for the price... about 350 for the unit.I am just glad to finally have the car running well for the first time in the year... my old motor was smoked and this is a lot faster then it was before just not the numbers i wanted to see... we guess that the motor could make an easy 200 on race gas or even with just less compression thus allowing us to put some timing back into it...
I plan to get it painted... do a little suspension so its fun to drive and try and get through the next two years of college with it... i am kind of sick of the car at this point...
Hey man, sorry you have had so many issues getting your car on the road. 
I was actually seriously thinking about buyilding up my H23 too but then I decided that I want to keep my car as close to stock as possible. I think I have seen too many people disappointed in their dynos.
I am curious. What kind of numbers were you expecting??
Good luck, man.

I was actually seriously thinking about buyilding up my H23 too but then I decided that I want to keep my car as close to stock as possible. I think I have seen too many people disappointed in their dynos.
I am curious. What kind of numbers were you expecting??
Good luck, man.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deckedlude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dam i have a similar setup but less compression and hondata. i hope i get better numbers than that
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Like i said... with less compression i could have made more power... when we first ran the car we made more power but it was detonation like crazy.... marbles on the old dinner plate...
the *** the put the motor together screwed up real bad.. i am already running a .095 head gasket... i guess i can still go thicker but i don't know if i feel like taking the motor back apart just yet
</TD></TR></TABLE>Like i said... with less compression i could have made more power... when we first ran the car we made more power but it was detonation like crazy.... marbles on the old dinner plate...
the *** the put the motor together screwed up real bad.. i am already running a .095 head gasket... i guess i can still go thicker but i don't know if i feel like taking the motor back apart just yet
Damn, what octane are you running? Sorry if it is 91. You should be putting down monster torque with high compression, and b/s of 88X95mm. What happens if you buy like 5 gallons of race gas, or 100 low lead avgas and tune on that and save that program for the strip? Then you could go back to the "street" program that you are running now.
Why did your high duration cams peak at like 5500? What were you cam gear settings? Do you know the specs?
Also if civics can run 12.5 CR no problem on a good tune why can't you? Do you have an air/fuel plot? How lean did it get? if you get a lower temperature thermostat and also look into an insulating intake manifold gasket to prevent heat soak on the intake charge. Hell I would header wrap your IM to keep it cool. You might also look into a "cool can" heat exchange for your fuel line, then you just have to fill it with ice all the time. Depending that might be cheaper than taking the engine all apart. Anything you can do to keep air and fuel cooler would help prevent detonation. Good luck on figuring it out.
the Pirate
Why did your high duration cams peak at like 5500? What were you cam gear settings? Do you know the specs?
Also if civics can run 12.5 CR no problem on a good tune why can't you? Do you have an air/fuel plot? How lean did it get? if you get a lower temperature thermostat and also look into an insulating intake manifold gasket to prevent heat soak on the intake charge. Hell I would header wrap your IM to keep it cool. You might also look into a "cool can" heat exchange for your fuel line, then you just have to fill it with ice all the time. Depending that might be cheaper than taking the engine all apart. Anything you can do to keep air and fuel cooler would help prevent detonation. Good luck on figuring it out.
the Pirate
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93ludeSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well.... over a year in the making and 2 lawsuits i finally get my car running and tuned... only to find that that jerk who put the motor together did a little miss calculation and gave me a little too much compression... so thats as much as we could get out of it on pump gas without crazy det!!
Setup is in the sig.... tuned at fast line motorsport in canton CT on a dynapack to that whole operation... I am running a unichip piggyback... allows for both fuel and ignition curve modification as well as idle control.... i was pretty impressed for the price... about 350 for the unit.
I am just glad to finally have the car running well for the first time in the year... my old motor was smoked and this is a lot faster then it was before just not the numbers i wanted to see... we guess that the motor could make an easy 200 on race gas or even with just less compression thus allowing us to put some timing back into it...
I plan to get it painted... do a little suspension so its fun to drive and try and get through the next two years of college with it... i am kind of sick of the car at this point...</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe your piggy back isnt good enought to tune with?

Well.... over a year in the making and 2 lawsuits i finally get my car running and tuned... only to find that that jerk who put the motor together did a little miss calculation and gave me a little too much compression... so thats as much as we could get out of it on pump gas without crazy det!!
Setup is in the sig.... tuned at fast line motorsport in canton CT on a dynapack to that whole operation... I am running a unichip piggyback... allows for both fuel and ignition curve modification as well as idle control.... i was pretty impressed for the price... about 350 for the unit.
I am just glad to finally have the car running well for the first time in the year... my old motor was smoked and this is a lot faster then it was before just not the numbers i wanted to see... we guess that the motor could make an easy 200 on race gas or even with just less compression thus allowing us to put some timing back into it...
I plan to get it painted... do a little suspension so its fun to drive and try and get through the next two years of college with it... i am kind of sick of the car at this point...</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe your piggy back isnt good enought to tune with?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn, what octane are you running? Sorry if it is 91. You should be putting down monster torque with high compression, and b/s of 88X95mm. What happens if you buy like 5 gallons of race gas, or 100 low lead avgas and tune on that and save that program for the strip? Then you could go back to the "street" program that you are running now.
Why did your high duration cams peak at like 5500? What were you cam gear settings? Do you know the specs?
Also if civics can run 12.5 CR no problem on a good tune why can't you? Do you have an air/fuel plot? How lean did it get? if you get a lower temperature thermostat and also look into an insulating intake manifold gasket to prevent heat soak on the intake charge. Hell I would header wrap your IM to keep it cool. You might also look into a "cool can" heat exchange for your fuel line, then you just have to fill it with ice all the time. Depending that might be cheaper than taking the engine all apart. Anything you can do to keep air and fuel cooler would help prevent detonation. Good luck on figuring it out.
the Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn good post, and good ideas, try what the pirate suggests, i think you may need better tuning
Why did your high duration cams peak at like 5500? What were you cam gear settings? Do you know the specs?
Also if civics can run 12.5 CR no problem on a good tune why can't you? Do you have an air/fuel plot? How lean did it get? if you get a lower temperature thermostat and also look into an insulating intake manifold gasket to prevent heat soak on the intake charge. Hell I would header wrap your IM to keep it cool. You might also look into a "cool can" heat exchange for your fuel line, then you just have to fill it with ice all the time. Depending that might be cheaper than taking the engine all apart. Anything you can do to keep air and fuel cooler would help prevent detonation. Good luck on figuring it out.
the Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn good post, and good ideas, try what the pirate suggests, i think you may need better tuning
You need headwork, you are probably running on a stock head setup which is really bad for high CR and duration/lift. You need radius blended valves and smoothed, polished, and coated combustion chambers and larger quench pads, How much power did it make when it was detonating?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93ludeSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[img]we guess that the motor could make an easy 200 on race gas or even with just less compression thus allowing us to put some timing back into it...
..</TD></TR></TABLE>
then put some race gas in there and see what numbers you can hit.
..</TD></TR></TABLE>
then put some race gas in there and see what numbers you can hit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
then put some race gas in there and see what numbers you can hit.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I might just do that... i might also cheat with an even thicker headgasket... i am just soooo sick of pooring money into this thing... i lost brakes on the highway today.... 5 seconds later they are fine.... i don't know whats going on.. the pedal just goes all the way to the floor sometimes.
The head is ported and polished.... shotpeened valves 3 angle grid... the intake mani is also spiral ported and port matched to the head... the setup is very complete... the guy lost the specs on the cams tooo.... clay smith reginds... 260 / 390 i think... i can't even remember at this point....
It made 140 on the stock ecu pinging like crazy... we really thought we would make a lot better numbers with that for a baseline....
the piggyback is pretty solid.. i wanted hondata but could not find a local tuner....
her is some info on it http://www.unichip.us/
i am not sure what i am going to do at this point... pretty upset about it
then put some race gas in there and see what numbers you can hit.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I might just do that... i might also cheat with an even thicker headgasket... i am just soooo sick of pooring money into this thing... i lost brakes on the highway today.... 5 seconds later they are fine.... i don't know whats going on.. the pedal just goes all the way to the floor sometimes.
The head is ported and polished.... shotpeened valves 3 angle grid... the intake mani is also spiral ported and port matched to the head... the setup is very complete... the guy lost the specs on the cams tooo.... clay smith reginds... 260 / 390 i think... i can't even remember at this point....
It made 140 on the stock ecu pinging like crazy... we really thought we would make a lot better numbers with that for a baseline....
the piggyback is pretty solid.. i wanted hondata but could not find a local tuner....
her is some info on it http://www.unichip.us/
i am not sure what i am going to do at this point... pretty upset about it
Do not dispair, I have a similar problem. Thanks to misinformation from JE, my H22 compression ratio was measured at 13:1, instead of a desired 12:1.
I upgraded to a mappable ECU (Emerald M3D) which does not use the knock sensor and the car just pinked its merry little head off and would not take timing on the non-vtec lobes. This would explain why the car was VERY lazy before the VTEC engaged as the Honda ECU was taking all the timing out due to knock occuring on the short duration non-vtec lobes, Bollox!
I have since installed a cometic 0.078" gasket which has dropped my compression to 11.3:1. Hope this is gonna solve my problem. Have not got round to putting the timing belt on though, I get the feeling it is going to be tough going.
Did you have any problem installing the timing belt with the thicker head gasket??
I just reassure myself that its gonna be worth all the hassle in the end. Do not give up my friend!
I upgraded to a mappable ECU (Emerald M3D) which does not use the knock sensor and the car just pinked its merry little head off and would not take timing on the non-vtec lobes. This would explain why the car was VERY lazy before the VTEC engaged as the Honda ECU was taking all the timing out due to knock occuring on the short duration non-vtec lobes, Bollox!
I have since installed a cometic 0.078" gasket which has dropped my compression to 11.3:1. Hope this is gonna solve my problem. Have not got round to putting the timing belt on though, I get the feeling it is going to be tough going.

Did you have any problem installing the timing belt with the thicker head gasket??
I just reassure myself that its gonna be worth all the hassle in the end. Do not give up my friend!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any A/F charts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i guess i did not print out the a/f charts..... the dynapack actually has an intregrated a/f meter... plots a graph with every run..... however... my tuner played with a/f all the way up the rpm band to keep it around 14 to 1... and if i watch my a/f meter (i know... they are not that accurate) it hangs pretty steady on the rich side of stoich.... so it runs a little fat... but thats safe and again helps with det.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmcclell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you have any problem installing the timing belt with the thicker head gasket??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea.. the timing belt goes on a little funky... as the distance from gear to crank is off.... i have the advatage of manual tension... i suggest you swap yours over.. and adjustable cam gears can help
As for my cams... exhaust 4degrees back intake 7 ahead....
i guess i did not print out the a/f charts..... the dynapack actually has an intregrated a/f meter... plots a graph with every run..... however... my tuner played with a/f all the way up the rpm band to keep it around 14 to 1... and if i watch my a/f meter (i know... they are not that accurate) it hangs pretty steady on the rich side of stoich.... so it runs a little fat... but thats safe and again helps with det.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmcclell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you have any problem installing the timing belt with the thicker head gasket??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea.. the timing belt goes on a little funky... as the distance from gear to crank is off.... i have the advatage of manual tension... i suggest you swap yours over.. and adjustable cam gears can help
As for my cams... exhaust 4degrees back intake 7 ahead....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speedra500 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are your combustion chambers deburred, deshrouded and polished?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes... the head had been worked very nicely..... however apparently i found out afterward that the engine builder (not the head builder, the head was built by cali based import builders) has ground part of the combustion chamber as part of the wedge was hitting the head
yes... the head had been worked very nicely..... however apparently i found out afterward that the engine builder (not the head builder, the head was built by cali based import builders) has ground part of the combustion chamber as part of the wedge was hitting the head
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmcclell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do not dispair, I have a similar problem. Thanks to misinformation from JE, my H22 compression ratio was measured at 13:1, instead of a desired 12:1.
I upgraded to a mappable ECU (Emerald M3D) which does not use the knock sensor and the car just pinked its merry little head off and would not take timing on the non-vtec lobes. This would explain why the car was VERY lazy before the VTEC engaged as the Honda ECU was taking all the timing out due to knock occuring on the short duration non-vtec lobes, Bollox!
I have since installed a cometic 0.078" gasket which has dropped my compression to 11.3:1. Hope this is gonna solve my problem. Have not got round to putting the timing belt on though, I get the feeling it is going to be tough going.
Did you have any problem installing the timing belt with the thicker head gasket??
I just reassure myself that its gonna be worth all the hassle in the end. Do not give up my friend!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
how did you do your timing since you got such a thick hg?
I upgraded to a mappable ECU (Emerald M3D) which does not use the knock sensor and the car just pinked its merry little head off and would not take timing on the non-vtec lobes. This would explain why the car was VERY lazy before the VTEC engaged as the Honda ECU was taking all the timing out due to knock occuring on the short duration non-vtec lobes, Bollox!
I have since installed a cometic 0.078" gasket which has dropped my compression to 11.3:1. Hope this is gonna solve my problem. Have not got round to putting the timing belt on though, I get the feeling it is going to be tough going.

Did you have any problem installing the timing belt with the thicker head gasket??
I just reassure myself that its gonna be worth all the hassle in the end. Do not give up my friend!
</TD></TR></TABLE>how did you do your timing since you got such a thick hg?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93ludeSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i lost brakes on the highway today.... 5 seconds later they are fine.... i don't know whats going on.. the pedal just goes all the way to the floor sometimes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That sounds like a bad master cylinder to me. Had the same thing on an Accord. Sometimes it was fine, then sometimes I had to pump the brakes to keep pressure. Worth a look...
That sounds like a bad master cylinder to me. Had the same thing on an Accord. Sometimes it was fine, then sometimes I had to pump the brakes to keep pressure. Worth a look...
14:1 is risky man, i know your trying to lean a lot, but you will run really hot like that, try to get the thicker gasket then get it tuned to like 13.5:1 over the band, and maybe a little richer up top to keep cool.....
nice setup.....oh yeah and get a new master cyl....asap, wouldnt want such a nice engine to risk getting crushed in a wreck....never mind your head....
good luck with a nice car man
-Matt
nice setup.....oh yeah and get a new master cyl....asap, wouldnt want such a nice engine to risk getting crushed in a wreck....never mind your head....

good luck with a nice car man
-Matt



