B16A SiR2 Erratic Idle +Video
Ok heres the deal, as my sig. says its a 1996 Civic DX Coupe Chassis. SiR2 B16A OBD1 version with all wires spliced from engine to chassis and Mugen chipped P28 ecu. AEM cold air, Custom 2.5" catback exhaust, and thats it...just thought I'd leave the rundown of everything done so I wouldnt get questions on it later. Obviously the idle is fuckzored, been revving until engine reached operating temp since I swapped it in over a year ago.
Since the change of the headgasket, in which I also opted for a Hondata intake manifold gasket, the revving has gotten worse. It no longer stops after warmup, just constant at idle no matter what. Soon as you start it, whether you've drove down the block and stopped, or drove 100 miles and pull to a stop, still revving.
It's really got me stumped, I've tried the TPS idle set screw, seems to do nothing...pulling the TPS sensor plug while engine running causes a CEL and engine to jump to a constant idle of about 4K rpms, and adjusting screw then seems to do nothing at all. While changing the head gasket, it seemed there was a slight amount of oil (or possibly just carbon buildup) in the runners of the intake manifold.
Don't have access to ALLDATA anymore until we get the business loan papers all figured out...thats why in the vid I ask about the green single pin connector found underneath the intake manifold. One more thing (as if this weren't long enough), the engine has ALWAYS run cold since the swap. On a cold night, you can let it idle, warm up, then drive....soon as you start cruising at a slightly high speed, the engine temp drops quite a bit. Fan hasn't been kicking on since before the swap, even back when I had the D16 in it...but still no overheating yet....
Any info to this insanely long post would be appreciated. I do what I can to answer others questions, just hope to get the same from you other members
Heres my attempt at posting the video: http://jon40324.tripod.com/Vid...e.WMV
Since the change of the headgasket, in which I also opted for a Hondata intake manifold gasket, the revving has gotten worse. It no longer stops after warmup, just constant at idle no matter what. Soon as you start it, whether you've drove down the block and stopped, or drove 100 miles and pull to a stop, still revving.
It's really got me stumped, I've tried the TPS idle set screw, seems to do nothing...pulling the TPS sensor plug while engine running causes a CEL and engine to jump to a constant idle of about 4K rpms, and adjusting screw then seems to do nothing at all. While changing the head gasket, it seemed there was a slight amount of oil (or possibly just carbon buildup) in the runners of the intake manifold.
Don't have access to ALLDATA anymore until we get the business loan papers all figured out...thats why in the vid I ask about the green single pin connector found underneath the intake manifold. One more thing (as if this weren't long enough), the engine has ALWAYS run cold since the swap. On a cold night, you can let it idle, warm up, then drive....soon as you start cruising at a slightly high speed, the engine temp drops quite a bit. Fan hasn't been kicking on since before the swap, even back when I had the D16 in it...but still no overheating yet....
Any info to this insanely long post would be appreciated. I do what I can to answer others questions, just hope to get the same from you other members

Heres my attempt at posting the video: http://jon40324.tripod.com/Vid...e.WMV
Ok... as far as the plug goes. It looks like the plug to the knock sensor (on the back of the engine, under the intake manifold). I didn't see you write anything about the IACV. It may need to be cleaned. These are just some ideas, plus you get a bump out of it. Good luck.
Is it possible that you have the IAC plug on just laying there (the one you don't know where it goes), and the power steering hooked up to the IAC? I did this to mine and it responded the same way. Also, check the back of the intake manifold...mine had a vaccum line for cruise control on the back (bottom right rear of manifold when looking at car) that I had to plug. Those would be my guesses. Good luck, keep us posted.
umm it can be ur chipped ecu.
it can be ur iacv is dirty.
or if it has the one **** like the spring ftv or something I forgot whats it called tvf or something search
it can be ur iacv is dirty.
or if it has the one **** like the spring ftv or something I forgot whats it called tvf or something search
it's your fast idle thermo valve (fitv). did you seal the coolant lines that goes thru this fitv? if you did a bypass, they are supposed to be joined with a brass fitting, not just sealed off at the ends. if it doesn't work, don't bypass the throttle body coolant lines.
i have an actual picture of the connection for that green plug. clearly shows the location because the head is off. tell me where to send it to. it's about 600kb. knock sensor plug. if your modded chip has knock sensors disabled, don't bother.
and it looks like u have another grey socket next to that green lil farka.
if your fan doesn't kick in, your thermoswitch is probably dead (assuming wiring and sockets are all plugged and alive).
i have an actual picture of the connection for that green plug. clearly shows the location because the head is off. tell me where to send it to. it's about 600kb. knock sensor plug. if your modded chip has knock sensors disabled, don't bother.
and it looks like u have another grey socket next to that green lil farka.
if your fan doesn't kick in, your thermoswitch is probably dead (assuming wiring and sockets are all plugged and alive).
Trending Topics
[QUOTE=bossman032]
it can be ur iacv is dirty.
QUOTE]
same thing happen to my friend, he cleaned it and no more harsh idle problem
chipped p28/- doesnt look for knock sensor
it can be ur iacv is dirty.
QUOTE]
same thing happen to my friend, he cleaned it and no more harsh idle problem
chipped p28/- doesnt look for knock sensor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bossman032 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it can be ur iacv is dirty.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
same thing happen to my friend, he cleaned it and no more harsh idle problem (his went from 1k rpm to 4k rpm no matter what)
chipped p28/- doesnt look for knock sensor, so dont worry about that
just clean ur iacv
it can be ur iacv is dirty.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
same thing happen to my friend, he cleaned it and no more harsh idle problem (his went from 1k rpm to 4k rpm no matter what)
chipped p28/- doesnt look for knock sensor, so dont worry about that
just clean ur iacv
Fast idle thermo valve. Somehow I guess during shipment from across the great pond the plastic "screw" plug inside it that regulates the piston travel had worked itself completely loose. Just pulled the valve, took off the block-off plate end held by 2 phillips screws, and tightened that little guy back down. Idles perfect now. I finally got access to alldata over the weekend, and decided to check this...too bad I hadnt checked my replies on here recently, considering coldfish was correct in his assumption.
Thanks for the help guys.
Thanks for the help guys.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
autox19
Tech / Misc
2
Mar 19, 2018 10:54 PM
Ryan Crisostomo
Introduce Yourself
2
May 13, 2013 12:23 AM




