Ive made another valve adjustment tool because Ive somehow managed to lose my last one; the dilemma I have is that Ive just realised the socket i bought ad pressed onto a wrench is a 10mm 'Plug Socket' as in sparkplug.

Do you think this will be deep enough still? the grooves go between 1/2 and 3/4 of the way into it. i just need to be sure


Modified by OTT at 7:39 PM 6/12/2004

 

Why are using a socket? Just buy a 10mm open ended wrench and bend it into a 90degree angle right where the wrench part is.

 

Naah I was being stupid, Have been so knackered alarely. I decided to measure the end because it looked bigger than my last on and I remembered the plug sockets are rated on the outer spark plug diameter.

So i returned it and ordered a 10mm deep well socket. i would rater do it this way.

 

With the socket how do you hold it still when you tighten the nut down. I.E. with a ratchet in the socket hole to tighten the nut there is no room for your screw driver to hold the adjustment made in place.

 

I went to advance auto and shelled out the mega price of seven bucks and got the correct tool!

 

you use a hammer or a vice to press a 5/8" multispanner (the round end) onto the 10mm socket

 

dont bother doing all that ****. Go buy a 10mm 12pt wrench, torch it or even do it the ghetto way and put it in a vise and hammer the closed end to a 90 degree bend.
Put the wrench over the nut (after you loosen it) and adjust it with a screwdriver. Interlock another larger wrench on the open end of the one you bent and you'll get enough torque to tighten the valve lash nut (while holding the screw with the flathead) without it turning. Then use a 10mm 12pt deepsocket and a TORQUE WRENCH (dont be stupid and think it feels "ok")..


Easy as pie.

 

yep i use the bent to a L 10mm too. easy

 

I bent mine with a propane torch and some pliers. Another thing you could try is taking an 11mm box-end wrench and welding it to a 10 mm deep socket.

 

If your too lazy to make one people make and sell them on ebay regualrly. Just so you don't have to spend a **** load of money on a snap on part

 

i've sold about 50 on ebay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg2rs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went to advance auto and shelled out the mega price of seven bucks and got the correct tool! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Lowest price basic valve adjusting tool is £36 = $58 approx
Would rather make one.

TeamCracka; I used my method for making a lash adj. tool before and I find it easy to use in this layout (socket + closed end wrench)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamCracka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...Then use a 10mm 12pt deepsocket and a TORQUE WRENCH (dont be stupid and think it feels "ok")..

Easy as pie.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've adjusted my valves a couple of times before mate and always use a torque wrench for all the bolts to factory spec. I ordered a new wrench a few days ago; My old one wasnt very accurate after having it tested and re-adjusted. Just thought Id buy a higher quality one.

http://www.trueshopping.co.uk/...d=957

Cheers anyway everyone

 

Well a fellow honda guy did give me his discount. I had to look through his catalogs and contact the manufacture to get the sales reps # and then they orderderd it, but none the less the list price was around 9 bucks and is the same tool in the helms. Not $58 but 9 or with discount 7. The company just started selling them and i went through hell trying to find!!!!!!!! On the same note anyone know where to get a ring gear holder the cheapest I've found in $63. This is way to much. anyone got and homemade ones?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamCracka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont bother doing all that ****. Go buy a 10mm 12pt wrench, torch it or even do it the ghetto way and put it in a vise and hammer the closed end to a 90 degree bend.
Put the wrench over the nut (after you loosen it) and adjust it with a screwdriver. Interlock another larger wrench on the open end of the one you bent and you'll get enough torque to tighten the valve lash nut (while holding the screw with the flathead) without it turning. Then use a 10mm 12pt deepsocket and a TORQUE WRENCH (dont be stupid and think it feels "ok")..


Easy as pie.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sure that works, but it's not as easy as having (or making) the proper tool:


Deep socket pressed into a closed-end wrench. Weld if necessary. Insert screwdriver. You're done. (btw - thanks for the idea, OTT )

For those of you buying the tool at Advance - what's it look like? Have any pictures - or a part #? I looked in my local one for quite a while when I was looking to buy one, and they didn't have squat - certainly not for $7.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daemione &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm sure that works, but it's not as easy as having (or making) the proper tool:


Deep socket pressed into a closed-end wrench. Weld if necessary. Insert screwdriver. You're done. (btw - thanks for the idea, OTT )

For those of you buying the tool at Advance - what's it look like? Have any pictures - or a part #? I looked in my local one for quite a while when I was looking to buy one, and they didn't have squat - certainly not for $7.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow thats pretty cool..

 

i thought i seen a rachet like this at sear made by gear wrench

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daemione &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm sure that works, but it's not as easy as having (or making) the proper tool:


Deep socket pressed into a closed-end wrench. Weld if necessary. Insert screwdriver. You're done. (btw - thanks for the idea, OTT )

For those of you buying the tool at Advance - what's it look like? Have any pictures - or a part #? I looked in my local one for quite a while when I was looking to buy one, and they didn't have squat - certainly not for $7.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very good, BUT you will need to add a bend of about 45degree into the neck of the wrench about half a centimeter away from the closed end of the wrench.This is bending the open end of the wrench towards the screwdriver.
At the current angle rotational movement is limited as wrench will catch on the side of the head and a few other things. The last wrench I used was the ideal shape. A friend of mine who's a graded welder, he welded this new wrench together for me, he even new the correct heat range the wrench's metal would bend at without discolouring! And the top of the socket has been welded in such a way that it seems like the two parts are fused/melted together, this without effecting use of the top of the socket for say a torque wench! Im impressed how well it came out.

Here have a look;
Using the tool and a small ratchet to loosen locking nuts:




All adjusted to spec and running nice and smooth, you can hardly hear the engine on tickover