Hi guys, as some of you may know, I've been battling a fuel delivery problem on my newly swapped B16A SiRII in my CR-X. I checked fuel pump, injectors, ecu, switched to OBD1 injectors and removed my resistor box, checked all my wiring. Everything is good, and I can get the engine to crank using carb cleaner, but when it runs out of carb cleaner it stops.

I've tested the injectors, they click when 12v is run through them. I tested their resistance. There is half a tank of fuel (93 octane) that has sat through the winter (in Northern VA) when the car was out of comission. It's coming close to 5 months now that the gas has been sitting, and I'm wondering, could the gas have gone bad where I can't start the engine anymore using it? Should I drain the tank and fill with new gas? I checked everything electrical, and I'm stumped. Please help!

 

first do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on ? if you do the second thing i would do is take off hte fuel line at the fuel rail and then turn hte key on, if you got fuel then you know its from the fuel rail on, if not then you know its from the fuel line back. let us konw what you get

 

Ive had gas sit for 9 months in a gas tank - still good.

 

ya i have had gas sit for about 15 months and it still worked..good luck with your project

 

Fuel pump primes, theres pressure, it makes it all the way to the injectors. I've checked everything from the ecu to the injectors. All of them are in perfect working order. I just can't tell if it's not giving the order to spray or not... Any ideas? I smelled my gas, and it doesn't smell like normal gas when you're at the stand pumping. My car sat out through an entire winter. My brake rotors were seized to the point that the tow truck had to yank it out of it's locked position. So... I've seen worse. I think this is one of the cases where you think, "nah, it couldn't be the gas" then you boil down to it, and it ends up being the problem. The worst that could happen is it not work. I'll try draining and filling with new gas, see what happens.

 

did you do the injector wiring.. check the injector plugs and there order... and check our sparks plug wire order...

 

yup, injector wiring is correct, there's no open in any of the wires, used obd0-obd1 harness from boomslang. My plug wire order is correct, 1,3,4,2.

 

are you getting spark?...are you sure the timing is correct?...you just need air,fuel,spark all at the correct time,maybe get a repair manual with a troubleshooting guide...good luck

 

Crank it over for 10 secs and then pull all 4 of the spark plugs. Are they wet?

If so they are gettinng fuel, so your problem is probably ignition.
If not then you know where your problem is.

 

I've been working with this problem for about a month now. I checked timing, wiring, spark, compression (210, 200, 190, 190) , injectors, all of them separately seem to be fine. Now, I just recently drained the old gas, replaced with new gas and some injector cleaner. I poured some gas in the cylinders before replacing plugs, it got the engine going a little, but not enough to fully start. I've been able to get it running only once with carb cleaner but I've never gotten it running again. Now...

When I crank it for 10 seconds, I'll get a CEL 8. Last night because of this, I checked and followed the steps in my Helms manual, checked resistance on the distributor wires, checked everything on the harness, nothing wrong. I cleared the CEL from the ecu, tried cranking again, and then I'll get CEL 8 again. Any ideas?

 

are you sure you know what your doing?...how about the injector resistor thing,you got one of those?..check that out...have you tried an ecu that you know works?..is your battery dead?..hmmm what else

 

What does CEL 8 mean? Did you check what I asked you to do before?

Check your cap and rotor inside the distributor.

 

I know what I'm doing, I'm using OBD1 saturated injectors which don't use an resistor box, so it has been removed. I have 2 ecu's that i've tried, one was just recently purchaced from a reputable seller of ecus. Cap and rotor are fine, I examined them, and when I pulled all 4 plugs and put them into the plug wires and cranked the engine there's spark on all 4. CEL 8 is TDC sensor which is located in the distributor. The helms manual has a walkthru for it, and the distributor checked out fine when I tested it with a mutimeter. The injectors are wet as well at the tips, but that doesn't mean something is not preventing them from spraying, they might not be spraying enough, and/or they are just wet from the fuel pump pressurizing them. I'm really stumped!

 

maybe your injectors are firing in the 1-3-4-2 order, if they arent then that would cause it not to run

ive had gas sitting in my tank for 2 years, put in a ls motor and she fired right up.

 

well... today I soldered in all my connections that were using twist connects just in case I had poor connections... I had a b16a first gen in this car before, and the wiring was correct. I checked the boomslang harness I'm using just in case they mis-wired it and the pinouts are correct for the injectors. BUT...

I tried running 12 volts to each injector while they were in the fuel rail, and each of them sprayed, but I noticed they kinda squirted in a stream, like a squirt gun, not in an atomized mist. is this normal? Is it possible that all 4 injectors are bad?

 

ok, new update. verified all my wires again, everything is kosher. while trying to start, I ran 12v to each injector from the battery, and each time I tried it, the engine reacted to the spray of fuel. so the injector are fine. I have 12 volts to the injectors from the main relay, that's fine. I checked the ecu with a multimeter, the grounds for the injectors that go to the ecu, I'm getting 12v on ecu injector ground for 3 and 4. I'm not getting anything from 1 and 2. I tried 2 different ecus on this. I'm still getting CEL 8 from 3 different ecus after cranking it for 10 seconds. I tried 2 OBD1 P30s and for kicks 1 OBD0 PW0 from my old first gen b16a. All 3 throw code 8 after cranking so...

I'm thinking maybe the distributor's TDC sensor is bad? I checked the distributor for 350-550 ohms like my Helms manual says, and it checks out ok. Would this prevent the ecu(s) from allowing a proper ground to the injectors, possibly to prevent timing misfires, as a self defence mechanism? Any thoughts?

 

If the sensor checks out fine, but it still throws the code, that means check everything between that sensor and the ECU. Namely the wire and the plug connectors. If you can get a spare distributer, try that.

Sorry for stating the obvious.

Did you verify that fuel is getting into the cylinders like two people suggested? When my swap wouldn't fire up, the injectors were clicking, but the fuel line wasn't compatible with the engines fuel rail fitting, and it was blocking out the fuel.

 

Yeah, I mentioned earlier that I sent 12 volts to all of the injectors manually, and when I did while cranking the engine reacted. I checked everything between the sensor and the ecu and I don't have any opens or shorts. I know in other cars a bad TDC sensor would prevent it from starting, would this be the same for Hondas? I'm looking into buying a new dizzy if necessary, but the one I have is in tip-top shape from what it looks like inside. I'd hate to buy another one and find it wasn't the problem, but all my wiring checks out, the problem is that the ecu is not telling the injectors to spray, and I have 3 ecus tell me code 8...

 

check the ground wire by the thermostat housing

 

to my knowledge it is well grounded, I put a new terminal on it and everything. BUT if its not, what would those grounds do/what are they for?