How to install a Harmonic Damper by Fluidamper
I wanted to make a post on how to install a Harmonic Damper by Fluidamper. I am running this pulley for several reasons, but the 2 main reasons are NHRA rules states, "All cars running 10.99 seconds or quikcer, harmonic balancer meeting SFI Spec. 18.1 mandatory." And the other reason is that I honestly believe that an engine that is balanced still has harmonics and harmonics. Harmonics or vibrations can kill bearings and oil pumps. No need to buy a pro-drive oil pump gears if you can remove harmonics, which hondas have a lot of with aftermarket rods and pistons. The OEM pulley is tuned to remove the harmonics with the OEM rods and pistons. If you change those internals you are also changing the harmonics.
So I dont have to tell you how it works you can find out here: http://www.fluidampr.com/problem.html
I feel very fortuate to have been a part of this product and seen it come and go at Endyn doing the test fitting. Its a great product that your bearings and oil pump will love you for it.
Jim Justice has played a big part in the development in this product too. He may even have dynoed it.
On to business:
Here is a pic of the older version that weights 7lbs. FYI, a stock weights around 5lbs. New one is only 6lbs and looks cooler. The unit below only has the alternator pully and the street with AC and PS will be out later this year. More pics later.

Stock Unit

The first thing you want to do is cut the plastic cover because it will melt it. Dont ask how I know..lol.

Next, install the timing belt guide plate and key on the crank. Its very important you have both of these and make sure the guide plate is on right or your timing belt will fall off!!

Now add some anti-seize on the snout of the crank in the bore of the pully.

Take note, the fluidamper is a very tight fit and wil need to be pressed on. So with the key on the crank line up the key with the keyway of the pulley. Then get you a NEW crank pully bolt and tighten it up with a rachet is fine. Once its on make sure to torque it down to 130ft.lbs as required by the helms manual.

Now you are all done. FYI, this is what the new and lighter version looks like. This also has a larger alternator pulley to overdrive the alternator. Look for a street version in the months to come.

Now that you are all done here are pics of it with my custom trigger wheel made by Tony1. Very good stuff tony and thanks again!!

How about this for a degree wheel!!

An internal view of the Harmonic Damper from Fluidamper:

I hope you enjoy this...
art
So I dont have to tell you how it works you can find out here: http://www.fluidampr.com/problem.html
I feel very fortuate to have been a part of this product and seen it come and go at Endyn doing the test fitting. Its a great product that your bearings and oil pump will love you for it.
Jim Justice has played a big part in the development in this product too. He may even have dynoed it.On to business:
Here is a pic of the older version that weights 7lbs. FYI, a stock weights around 5lbs. New one is only 6lbs and looks cooler. The unit below only has the alternator pully and the street with AC and PS will be out later this year. More pics later.

Stock Unit

The first thing you want to do is cut the plastic cover because it will melt it. Dont ask how I know..lol.

Next, install the timing belt guide plate and key on the crank. Its very important you have both of these and make sure the guide plate is on right or your timing belt will fall off!!

Now add some anti-seize on the snout of the crank in the bore of the pully.

Take note, the fluidamper is a very tight fit and wil need to be pressed on. So with the key on the crank line up the key with the keyway of the pulley. Then get you a NEW crank pully bolt and tighten it up with a rachet is fine. Once its on make sure to torque it down to 130ft.lbs as required by the helms manual.

Now you are all done. FYI, this is what the new and lighter version looks like. This also has a larger alternator pulley to overdrive the alternator. Look for a street version in the months to come.

Now that you are all done here are pics of it with my custom trigger wheel made by Tony1. Very good stuff tony and thanks again!!

How about this for a degree wheel!!

An internal view of the Harmonic Damper from Fluidamper:

I hope you enjoy this...
art
Art you always have some cool h-tech **** to show us. What's that going to cost anyways? Always good to know NHRA requirements when your breaking sound barriers and also to give your fi motor longevity, priceless.
Whats AC and powerstering?
JK.
The street version isnt out yet, but all the pulleys do have an alternator pulley on it. Here is a shot from the other side of the older version.
JK.The street version isnt out yet, but all the pulleys do have an alternator pulley on it. Here is a shot from the other side of the older version.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: On the coast, with my feet in the sand
no p/s and a/c for me either but, it would be good to have. alternator pulley is good enough for me.
so, are the actual modification(s) with adding this pulley is just cutting the timing belt cover?
so, are the actual modification(s) with adding this pulley is just cutting the timing belt cover?
Yup, thats all you have to do. I still dont know what size belt you can use since I havent done that yet..hehe As soon as I find what size I'll let you guys know.
art
art
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,443
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From: On the coast, with my feet in the sand
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yup, thats all you have to do. I still dont know what size belt you can use since I havent done that yet..hehe As soon as I find what size I'll let you guys know.
art</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm assuming you're referring to the alternator belt? if so, are the factory ones not long enough?
art</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm assuming you're referring to the alternator belt? if so, are the factory ones not long enough?
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Its cool that they have made a pulley for our cars. We had alittle to do with its development. They got a hold of us to find an engine dyno. We set them up with Justice Racing engines and had a friend of mine make an adapter plate for the engine dyno. They tested them on my old motor out of my wrecked integra. How long have they been out?
Hey Art why did you decide to go with a Fluidamper and not an ATI balancer??? Are their more advantages of running this damper over the ATI??
Yeah the Engine dyno we were going to be testing on wasnt ready at the time. I am glad you guys helped out great people for a great product.
To you guys here is a pic of the Engine Dyno Endyn will be doing the testing on:

We actually have an ATI, Fluidamper and stock to test out:

Price is $350 and they are coming out for the h and d series. For you WRX owners I think one is coming out for you too. Who remember when ATI first came out? They were around $500 and $350 for v-8 version when it was the same hub! That left a bad taste in my mouth. But both ATI and fluidamper are good products.
Here is a 650whp turbo engine with alot of dyno pulls and alot of runs. Look at the bearings. A damper was used on this engine:
To you guys here is a pic of the Engine Dyno Endyn will be doing the testing on:
We actually have an ATI, Fluidamper and stock to test out:

Price is $350 and they are coming out for the h and d series. For you WRX owners I think one is coming out for you too. Who remember when ATI first came out? They were around $500 and $350 for v-8 version when it was the same hub! That left a bad taste in my mouth. But both ATI and fluidamper are good products.
Here is a 650whp turbo engine with alot of dyno pulls and alot of runs. Look at the bearings. A damper was used on this engine:
Art,
what is the ETA for the D series. I plan on putting the motor together soon and would pick one up ASAP if they are available.
Can I put the stock pulley on then put the Fluidampr one on or is this a no-no?
what is the ETA for the D series. I plan on putting the motor together soon and would pick one up ASAP if they are available.
Can I put the stock pulley on then put the Fluidampr one on or is this a no-no?
Using your stock one isnt going to blow up your engine or anything. Think of it like wearing a codom during sex. You dont always have to put one on but in the long run it might save your ***...lol Its cheap insurance for the long run.
art
art
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Using your stock one isnt going to blow up your engine or anything. Think of it like wearing a codom during sex. You dont always have to put one on but in the long run it might save your ***...lol Its cheap insurance for the long run.
art</TD></TR></TABLE>
Larry (Endyn) told me jsut to use my stock dampener and ditch the Unorthocrox I have now which is what I am doing.
If this will help in the long run, I would pick it up no problem. Is this mainly a problem with B series engines because of the amount of power they are producing nowadays?
art</TD></TR></TABLE>
Larry (Endyn) told me jsut to use my stock dampener and ditch the Unorthocrox I have now which is what I am doing.
If this will help in the long run, I would pick it up no problem. Is this mainly a problem with B series engines because of the amount of power they are producing nowadays?
damn
I got a Unorthodox pulley for about 3 years ... I never broke anything with it.
but this summer im aiming to rev my D16Z6 to 8000 rpm maybe a lil bit more ... can I have some trouble using it ???
I got a Unorthodox pulley for about 3 years ... I never broke anything with it.
but this summer im aiming to rev my D16Z6 to 8000 rpm maybe a lil bit more ... can I have some trouble using it ???
Off topic-
please explain how that crank trigger works. Where is the sensor/trigger?
I suppose you are too good to mod the distributor?
please explain how that crank trigger works. Where is the sensor/trigger?
I suppose you are too good to mod the distributor?



