Okay well i know there are alot of these post already but many of them are outdated...sorry i just need some more specs. that aren't answered in some of them. I'm such a noob! haha...

anyways well i know you can get an VAFC 2 for about 300.00 off ebay. I heard Hondatas go for less than that but then also heard they more exp. Intially i was gonna get the VAFC but then read all these post on H-T about the HONDATA being so much better. but dosen't it need a dyno to set it up?...dymn that would suck! but i'm so lost i need someone to give me a sense of direction. Hondata or VAFC.....which is better price(current), which is better performance(hondata?), which is more convinient...also if anyone has any good deals on either Let me Know that might help me make up my mind...oh yeah i drive a ...(will soon drive) 92 civic hb swapped b16a turbocharged. if you need anymore info to help me out...let me know...!

 

hondata s200 w/ boost

 

definantelly hondata. It is way way better than a vafc.

 

Wow, where to start on this one....

Okay, for either to be effective, you will need a dyno and a tuner who knows how to tune what you are using. (VAFC or Hondata, have no advantages here).

The VAFC is going to end up being cheaper than the Hondata setup. (VAFC has the advantage)

The Hondata has more adjustablity (Hondata has the advantage).

Convient...after they are set (tuned) you should have no need to mess with either (agian, no advantage one way or the other).

Both are technically "piggyback" systems that control the signals of your stock ECU.

If you plan to run less than 10 psi or so I would say go with the AFC, as it will be able to cover what you need and will end up being less. Also there are more tuners who can tune an AFC (and IMHO if you can't tune an AFC you don't deserve to be tuning anyones stuff).

Base your decisions on your goals and money situation.

EDIT: Damn you guys are quick today..in the time it took me to type that out there were 2 responses!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, where to start on this one....

Okay, for either to be effective, you will need a dyno and a tuner who knows how to tune what you are using. (VAFC or Hondata, have no advantages here).

The VAFC is going to end up being cheaper than the Hondata setup. (VAFC has the advantage)

The Hondata has more adjustablity (Hondata has the advantage).

Convient...after they are set (tuned) you should have no need to mess with either (agian, no advantage one way or the other).

Both are technically "piggyback" systems that control the signals of your stock ECU.

If you plan to run less than 10 psi or so I would say go with the AFC, as it will be able to cover what you need and will end up being less. Also there are more tuners who can tune an AFC (and IMHO if you can't tune an AFC you don't deserve to be tuning anyones stuff).

Base your decisions on your goals and money situation.

EDIT: Damn you guys are quick today..in the time it took me to type that out there were 2 responses! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with all of this except you don't need a dyno if you get a wide-band.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Both are technically "piggyback" systems that control the signals of your stock ECU. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How is hondata a piggyback system? WTF
go with hondata..you will probably be able to make a few more horsepower becasue of the adjustability of the hondata system

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MAD SOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I agree with all of this except you don't need a dyno if you get a wide-band.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

That and some OBD software to set your fuel trim at idle(is also very helpful when watching stuff such as your AIT sensor after a FMIC install) Believe me, I have both and you NEED both to tune yourself.

My E-Manage was tuned by me as well as various other local stuff.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BluLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How is hondata a piggyback system? WTF
go with hondata..you will probably be able to make a few more horsepower becasue of the adjustability of the hondata system </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ever seen a Hondata setup? Does it replace the ECU like an AEM setup. Think about it a second and you'll figure it out.

 

Wow thanks for the quick responses....so let me get this straight..BOTH are piggyback systems?? and you need a dyno for both?...if its like that then....course hondata....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Noch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow thanks for the quick responses....so let me get this straight..BOTH are piggyback systems?? and you need a dyno for both?...if its like that then....course hondata....</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are BOTH piggyback systems. Both only alter your factory ECMs signals.

You will need different equipment for the Hondata though (I've never set one up, so I won't be very helpful in what you will need).

You can either spend the money on the dyno time, or get you a Wideband 02 sensor if you want to attempt tuning it yourself.

The VAFC will be easier for you to tune.

 

I would reccomend a S100 w/boost. No need for the S200 unless you have a laptop, want to datalog, and tune yourself.

Hondata interfaces with the stock ecu and allows for changes to be made.

In the sense that you want to compare "standalones" and "piggybacks"

The AEM uses a standalone ECU, but not a trrue standalone becuse it uses factory wiring harnesses and sensors. Try running MoTec, Autronics, or SpeedPro if you want a true standalone.

On a streetable car, there isnt any reason NOT to run Hondata or an AEM.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silverbeast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would reccomend a S100 w/boost. No need for the S200 unless you have a laptop, want to datalog, and tune yourself.

Hondata interfaces with the stock ecu and allows for changes to be made.

In the sense that you want to compare "standalones" and "piggybacks"

The AEM uses a standalone ECU, but not a trrue standalone becuse it uses factory wiring harnesses and sensors. Try running MoTec, Autronics, or SpeedPro if you want a true standalone.

On a streetable car, there isnt any reason NOT to run Hondata or an AEM.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What this man said!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ever seen a Hondata setup? Does it replace the ECU like an AEM setup. Think about it a second and you'll figure it out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

While it's true that Hondata doesn't replace the physical ECM like an AEM, I still think it's a bit misleading and inaccurate to refer to it as a "piggy-back" system. To me, a piggy-back system is a controller that intercepts, manipulates, and resends the signals to and from a stock ECU. A'pexi's V-AFC, and Field's SFC are obviously the two most common examples, and they're functionality is limited somewhat by their design. Hondata, on the other hand, doesn't function this way, and instead allows for the creation of entirely new fuel and timing maps rather than simply "fooling" the car by altering the original signals. In this respect, (to me anyway) Hondata shouldn't really be grouped with other "piggy-backs" just because it is based on a Honda ECU.

I also think that, if you're looking for maximum power, it's going to be difficult to obtain it by tuning without a dyno, even with a wide-band O2 or other tools, since it's next to impossible to accurately gauge the effects that particular settings are actually having on power output.

 

the s100 or s200 control board does intercept and alter the signal. it just is designed to do it inside the ecu, but the big advantage it has is that you get all teh benefits of a chipped ecu as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silverbeast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would reccomend a S100 w/boost. No need for the S200 unless you have a laptop, want to datalog, and tune yourself.

Hondata interfaces with the stock ecu and allows for changes to be made.

In the sense that you want to compare "standalones" and "piggybacks"

On a streetable car, there isnt any reason NOT to run Hondata or an AEM.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup Yup Yup,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ever seen a Hondata setup? Does it replace the ECU like an AEM setup. Think about it a second and you'll figure it out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are changine the essential parts of the ecu in the hondata system? Have you ever looked at or seen a hondata system...u still have to end up replacing the microprocessor and some other internal parts...with the vafc you dont change anything in the ecu you just tap some wires in...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are BOTH piggyback systems. Both only alter your factory ECMs signals.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't listen to him i dont think he really knows wut hondata is btw up to you...if you got the money go for the hondata the vafc will still work with your setup but hondata would be better all around because it has a million more things you can adjust and fiddle with...

 

I have had both setups, VAFC2 and Hondata. I can honestly say the Hondata is incredibly better. And I also agree with what other people are saying that Hondata technically isn't a "piggy-back" tuning system. While the Hondata does use the stock ECU, you burn a completely new ROM, it is controlled by the Hondata box and to tune it you must hook the hondata up to a laptop. I would consider a piggy-back something more user-friendly where you can just play around with settings sitting in your driveway or something.

Besides, with Hondata S200, there are a lot of options available to you. The 3-step revlimiter/launch control is something that is very helpful. Also, s200 comes with the shift light option, plus you can get the options to do data logging, g-sensor, etc.. For the additional $50 it costs to get s200 instead of s100, why not spend that and not be kicking yourself in the *** later for not buying it?

 

For his application there isnt a need for the S200b, the S100b will be just fine. Also, if he does want to "kick himself", he can upgrade at anytime.

:edit: i cant spell


Modified by Silverbeast at 3:13 PM 3/17/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you plan to run less than 10 psi or so I would say go with the AFC, as it will be able to cover what you need and will end up being less. Also there are more tuners who can tune an AFC (and IMHO if you can't tune an AFC you don't deserve to be tuning anyones stuff).

Base your decisions on your goals and money situation. :thumbup:
</TD></TR></TABLE>

This mans speaks the truth. Less than 10psi=vafc. Over 10psi, hondata. Vafc is easier for the average person to use, Hondata is better if you have the money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silverbeast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For his application there isnt a need for the S200b, the S100b will be just fine. Also, if he does want to "kick himself", he can upgrade at anytime.

:edit: i cant spell


Modified by Silverbeast at 3:13 PM 3/17/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

Upgrading from s100 to s200 costs $225. Hmmm...$50 now or $225 later?

 

thanks guys for all your help...but iono if my civic will put out more than 10 psi....so mabe i should stick w/ VAFC? yeah right...haha well iono haha guess i'll wait for more opinions....still leaning towards Hondata

 

all i have to say is AEM EMS

if u wanna do vafc or hondata do hondata with boost

 

The Hondata does not alter any signals to the ecu as a piggyback does. IT takes the information and is able to use it....like a stock ecu doesnot know what to do with map readings above 1000milibars, whereas with a HOndata it can both read and knows what to do with readings above this. No signal are intercepted, they are used by a modified Honda ecu. If you want stock reliablility and the car is daily driven then the Hondata is by far the best obption to consider.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the s100 or s200 control board does intercept and alter the signal. it just is designed to do it inside the ecu, but the big advantage it has is that you get all teh benefits of a chipped ecu as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Well if the AFC needs a dyno to be tuned too then i'd def. get the hondata...thankx for all your inputs...