Pictures of my block after I threw a rod...


http://www.speedminded.com/blownb18c1.html

And here is my new engine....probably one of the only B18C5's with a black valve cover in existance:


http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/470820/3

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedminded &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I threw a rod...

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Under statement of the century. Nice work dude!

Good looking new motor. Was it just an ITR block (which is the same as the C1) or did you build the internals too?

 

That's quite a hole in the block you got yourself there.

And SinisterCivic has a sleeved B18C5 with a black valve cover (for that sleeper look).

 

damn, that hole looks nasty, but nice clean lookin motor!!

 

I bought a brand new B18C5 longblock, it included an acura assembled block with a partially assembled head...both new with 0 miles and included a new water pump, oil pump, etc. It was put together with what could be salvaged from my B18C1. View the link under the new engine picture for more pictures and info...

Parts list:
New topend gasket/seal kit from Acura
ARP head studs
Hondata intake manifold gasket
SKunk2 Intake Manifold
P73 ECU

Also added:
Cusco Flywheel
Clutchmasters FX300 Stage III Clutch Kit


Modified by speedminded at 3:33 AM 3/6/2004

 

Did you get it from len?

 

Yep, that's the one.

 

what was done to your b18c1?

VERY nice new engine

 

I know a guy who has a b18c5 with a black valve cover. So youre not the only one =x

 

Damn how/what happened? And good call on the black valve cover.

 

nice new motor

 

"what was done to your b18c1?"

Stock engine with bolt ons: CAI, DC 4-1, stainless exhaust, that's about it. It was apparently hydrolocked about 2 months before I bought the car, not completely, but it stalled and wouldn't start for a minute, then started and seemed to drive fine. It threw a code after this happened, the dealer checked it out, took the end of the CAI that was down near the front bumper and put it back up near the stock location, said it was fine, and sent it on its way. I live with the previous owner so I knew just about everything about it.

.. before i bought it I checked the compression myself. It checked out fine on the first three cylinders but when I checked that last one something happened and the pressure did not go back down, popped the tester off and we just thought it was a fluke accident even though nobody has ever had that happened to them that was there with me. Checked the compression again on all 4 cylinders and they were all dead even with no problems. The car ran strong, even being lowered 2.25" there was not a mark or even a scratch on the exhaust, oil pan, or any of the suspension...only 37k miles on it so I bought it and then it threw the rod 1 week later.

I fought Acura for several weeks with no luck. A huge mess of nothing but lies from the Service Manager, I could write a book about what what was said. Anyways, they wouldn't come to a compromise for anything so I said give me my car back and I'll do it myself...

Just got the engine out and the rod was broken right under the piston. I forgot the freakin "paperweight" at the shop when I left otherwise I would have pictures of it too. The part of the rod on the piston end had a slight bend/twist to it with some marks on it that proves it was damaged before it blew. **** happens.







Modified by speedminded at 4:45 AM 3/6/2004

 

dealerships How much did you pay for the new block and head?

 

$2,600.00 - New Block & Head complete
$158.00 - New Gasket & Seal kit
$113.00 - New ARP Head Studs (including Next day Air)
$75.00 - New Hondata IM gasket
$230.00 - New Skunk2 IM, shipped
$145.00 - Used P73 ECU shipped

$200.00 - Cusco Flywheel
$230.00 - Clutchmasters Stage III Kit (including 2nd Day Air)

..All from 3 months of sleepless nights going through forums, sites, eBay, and about 1,000 phonecalls to importers, salvage yards, etc.

 

That first pic looks really bad. The new motor looks nice I also like your white integra. Frost White with black tints looks really good bro.

 

What color do you think I should powdercoat the wheels? I really hate white wheels...





I dropped a lug nut on one of the wheels when I took them of to clean them the other day, chipped the paint, and realized the lips are polished...

I photoshopped a few differant colors, which do you think would look best...
http://www.speedminded.com/konig_traffik.html
..yeah the gold/bronze ones area a little too bling but i couldn't figure out how to make them look more like metallic paint.

 

i think you should paint them either bronze or gunmetal..i think those colors would look beautiful against the white car..sorry to hear about all the trouble with getting the new motor, but at least u got it and it looks great!

erica

 

id say bronze on the white car...new motor looks really clean gl with everything dude.

 

bronze or gunmetal

 

Something like this? My photochop skills suck though (no more wing either)...

 

Bronze or gunmetal would look nice on your car. I think a stock OEM front bumper with the OEM type R lip would look nice on that car as well. Your car looks nice bro, I don't want to take anything away from that. I'm just not a big Bodykit guy. OEM look with a lip style kit is always nice. Man, Frost white and black tints look Keep up the good work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedminded &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

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j0Or car looks like a panda

and for the wheels, I say gunmetal w/a polished lip.

 

just looking at this a second time...lets see:

2001, which makes it ~3 years old.
37,000 miles
Blown motor

Warranty? Should have still been under the factory 4yr/50,000 mile right?

 

dude that sucks you threw a rod that hole looks ugly,good luck with ur new motor

 

Try reading this topic for a third time and make sure you check out 'Re: (shupaGSR)' ...it's the post with the picture of my car without the bumpers.

The 4yr/50,000 mile warranty is not really what it says ....For major mechanical items the cutoff is like 35,000 and anything above that is a grace period which is strictly voluntary for them to do anything. It's complete BS but there was nothing I could do. I was on the phone with Acura Client Services for weeks and honestly I would have killed that service manager if I saw him again. I'm not talking about the person at the desk that takes the keys and puts in the paper mats, it was the Service Manager that is incharge of all the mechanics and he never told me the same thing twice.

1) Acura had the car picked up and delivered there. He said they drained the oil and there was water in it, therefore they cannot cover it. I said, of course there is, there is a hole in the block, I know this because there is oil and coolant puddled under my car everytime I move it. I asked him was there coolant in the oil/water mix... He said no, it's pure water and welcomed me to come look at it. I drove almost 1.5 hrs for him to hand me a cup that was sweet enough to drink. He handed me the cup, in the 2 seconds it took me to smell it, I said there is coolant in it?! I handed it back to him and he said, "sure is isn't?" THe COOLANT and water mix would sit on top of the oil if you let the cup sit for couple minutes. I was like, WTF? You told me there was pure water in the oil and no coolant. He replied with, it doesn't really matter if there is coolant in it...the fact is it has water in the oil therefore it must have been in there when the engine blew. I was speechless.

2) He later changed the story...There was almost no oil in it when we drained it, you must have ran it out of oil, we can't warranty negligence. Umm, "There is a hole in my block, the oil came out all over the road, all over my car, and completely covered the two cars behind me...how would there be much oil in it?" Service Managers reply, "The hole in the block is too high for that much oil to come out, that would not be possible, you had to have run it out of oil".

3)Ok, say there was water in the engine before it blew....could it be possible it blew a head gasket? Service Manager's response, "Blowing a head gasket it very rare and unlikely"

It sat at the dealer for two weeks trying to get this worked out. They offered to tear it down for $800 to see what happened inside. If it was mechanical failure/defective part then I would not be billed and they would replace the engine. After what I have heard from them before I knew for damn sure they were going to be sending me a bill so I said I want my car back, $800 will get me a long ways on a new engine myself.
I got the car back and I had the four impressions on my front fenders where people had pushed down on the front checking out my suspension. I looked all through my pictures but there was none that could prove they weren't there before. I know for a fact they weren't there because the previous owner bottomed the front bumper out and buckled one of the fenders. She had the front fenders, bumper, and hood painted and I know what it looked like before and after the paint. **** Dealers. I don't have anyting against the mechanics, they are just doing there job...it's the people incharge of them and 99% of all car salesman that have no morals and are completely worthless.

This is what the back of my car and both cars behind me looked like when it blew, but of course "that much oil couldn't have come out"





Modified by speedminded at 2:39 PM 3/6/2004