Had to ask this as well to see if I made the right choice when I ordered my ACT 12.5Lb. streetlite to match my Exedy clutch setup .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Osokwik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Had to ask this as well to see if I made the right choice when I ordered my ACT 12.5Lb. streetlite to match my Exedy clutch setup . </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you wanted to know if you made the "right" choice, shouldn't you have asked about it before purchasing any product?

 

I know I would take some flack by stating that but after all the searches I've done in the last 2 months, I don't think I made a bad decision. It's used as my daily driver and I wanted it to be strong enough of a setup without it being too overbearing.

 

Are you sure that flywheel is legal for your Solo II class?

 

As an FYI... Fidanza and Clutchmasters are the same flywheel.

 

Sorry guys, I forgot to list the Comptech flywheel. I guess it didn't matter concidering I used all the spots on the polls. There was no more room for any more. I could only list 8 .

 

i run a prolite everyday and it is no where near being unbearable. i cant imagine paying the price for a flywheel and getting one that will feel just like stock(maybe a little better, but not much) the prolite or other flywheel is the only way to go. send it back and get the prolite

 

Got the Exedy 9lb Chromoly unit to go w/ my Exedy organic clutch and the two go together like PB & J. Not that you did anything wrong, but why didn't you go/ the Exedy wheel??? Very reasonably priced and a nice piece.

I had my setup for a couple of years, daily driven, Dragged, Auto-x'ed and HPDE'd it. Still like new.

 

JUN Ultra-lightweight

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gamby &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Got the Exedy 9lb Chromoly unit to go w/ my Exedy organic clutch and the two go together like PB & J. Not that you did anything wrong, but why didn't you go/ the Exedy wheel??? Very reasonably priced and a nice piece.

I had my setup for a couple of years, daily driven, Dragged, Auto-x'ed and HPDE'd it. Still like new.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same setup here. Couldn't ask for anything better

 

Is anyone here useing a Comptech flywheel? I heard their pretty sweet!

 

A couple of questions:

1) Most importantly: is the flywheel legal for the class you wish to run it?

2) Why do you want one? The benefits are not significant.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allenp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

2) Why do you want one? The benefits are not significant.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A.) Less rotational mass
B.) Faster acceleration
C.) Better rev matching when down shifting
D.) The fact that more than 50% of the peolpe polled here have an aftermarket, non-OEM flywheel.

I think the reasons are very significant .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Osokwik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think the reasons are very significant .

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The most important question is: are flywheels legal in your class? Mine puts me in DSP (7.5 lb Fidanza), whereas I could only hope to compete locally in STS. The ONLY reason I have one is because my company installed one for free as a test installation (I am a clutch engineer.)

I can assure you they're not as significant as you may believe. In higher gears, the flywheel represents somewhere on the order of 1% of the "inertia" being accelerated by the engine. Lower gears there is a more significant effect.

Rev-matching is more of a tangible benefit. Since the engine is disengaged from the rest of the drivetrain, the reduction in flywheel mass represents a much larger percentage of the total. But even that isn't a big deal.

When you're looking for that last 0.01 second, a flywheel might help. But for most, the $300 expense is hardly worth it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Osokwik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

D.) The fact that more than 50% of the peolpe polled here have an aftermarket, non-OEM flywheel.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you know who answered for certain? And how can you qualify the expertise of those who did?

The only reason I am posing these questions is to give people pause before they go out and spend $600+ on parts/labor for a modification that disappoints.

Edit: clarity

 

I have used several lightweight flywheels over the years, and I have "NEVER" been dissapointed with the results. I am currently using a 7.5lb ClutchMasters, and in my case, its makes a substantial difference for autocross.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and in my case, its makes a substantial difference for autocross.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allenp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you're looking for that last 0.01 second, a flywheel might help. But for most, the $300 expense is hardly worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You must be one of those people then!

Honestly, can you be certain that the "difference" is solely attributable to the FW and not to other modifications (or driver improvement)? I can show you calculations that demonstrate how little difference the flywheel makes in acceleration, and acceleration is only a small component of autocross success.

 

if you are replacing the clutch it makes sense to install a flywheel at the same time. it cost ~50 to resurface a factory flywheel and you can get a ACT prolite for ~230 shipped. the lighter flywheel IS noticeable in 1-3 with 1&gt;2&gt;3.

if your clutch is fine, i dont see the point of dropping the tranny just to install a flywheel.

 

Yeah, I suppose I could go along with the theory that if you're in there anyway, replace it then. But it's still $230...

And while you're correct that it makes a larger difference in lower (autox) gears, I'm still not convinced that the performance benefit is worth it. I have the 7.5lb unit (which is among the lightest) in my GSR, and I could barely tell the difference accelerating in a straight line... Much less at autox.

 

ACT Streetlite.. no complaints yet. Also running the ACT Xtreme Pressure plate and 6-puck disk.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allenp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and I could barely tell the difference accelerating in a straight line... Much less at autox.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But do you have test data to back it up? Same course, same day, same driver, etc? The opinions you are bashing are no better or worse than your own, because they are just that - opinions

Why do you play with spring rates? Alignment? Shock revalve? Tire pressures? Bolt-ons? Lighter wheels and seats? All of these things by themselves do not represent significant differences... but testing and tuning of the package as a whole to create faster times, now thats something to work towards. A lighter flywheel is just one small part of a big equation.

Just offering up a different viewpoint...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But do you have test data to back it up? Same course, same day, same driver, etc? The opinions you are bashing are no better or worse than your own, because they are just that - opinions

Why do you play with spring rates? Alignment? Shock revalve? Tire pressures? Bolt-ons? Lighter wheels and seats? All of these things by themselves do not represent significant differences... but testing and tuning of the package as a whole to create faster times, now thats something to work towards. A lighter flywheel is just one small part of a big equation.

Just offering up a different viewpoint...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think this sums it up for me.
I also don't know anyone who either polled here or posted who has said "I wish I hadn't spent the $300 on my flywheel, I noticed no improvement at all...." Besides maybe yourself allenp .

 

Yall need to shop better for flywheels...I got a brand new ACT Prolite for $215 shipped - EBAY rules!

 

also a benefit of lighter flywheels is that with less inertia in lower gears, you are less likely to have traction problems(you will also have to launch from a higher rpm off the line if you are drag racing). and also its less likely to grind gears.

heel toe downshifting is so much smoother for me with a lighter fly compared to a stock one also. maybe thats just more practice but i think it helped.

 

Nonono... Not bashing opinions at all. I really don't mean to be "bashing."

I do have data. I will attempt to produce it in a manner that means something to everyone.

And as to your comment about the flywheel being part of a big picture, I could not agree more. However, what I see is people taking "opinions" and other hearsay and expecting big gains out of them -- and I know the physics does not add up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also don't know anyone who either polled here or posted who has said "I wish I hadn't spent the $300 on my flywheel, I noticed no improvement at all...."</TD></TR></TABLE>

Again... NOT trying to discredit anyone's opinion here. But I think the placebo effect does have some part here... I think GERM said it best when the biggest improvements come in the form of shifting (rev-matching, heel/toe) because of the large relative inertia change.