http://www.opmautosports.com/p....html



Anybody using of these? I thinkI'm buying a set, anything to get rid of the damn wheel hop! Also where else does it help, exiting a corner under acceleration? Opinions and experiences please!

Thanks

 

to be honest, and I may not be the best qualified to answer, but I dont think wheel hop would occur exiting a corner. I think it only occurs when one accelerates from a stop abruptly, while "dumping" the clutch.

A locking diff would help best to accelerate out of a corner, to apply all the best possible traction.

 

no I know the wheel won't hop out of a corner, but rubber/weaker radius rod bushings I'm thinking would cause some instability once you hammer the gas.

Well if anyone has them I'm looking for general impressions and benefits.

 

I have them on my CRX. THEY ARE GREAT. The car went from being neutral if not pushing to oversteering in a turn. For a front wheel car, that means being able to get on gas a little quicker The trick is to cut the sleaves/spacers so the front wheels end up being pulled forward (caster) thus given you better turn in. As far as wheel hop, these are not your answer. If you are getting wheel hop in a turn, either give it less gas or buy a limited slip diff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITACRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have them on my CRX. THEY ARE GREAT. The car went from being neutral if not pushing to oversteering in a turn. For a front wheel car, that means being able to get on gas a little quicker The trick is to cut the sleaves/spacers so the front wheels end up being pulled forward (caster) thus given you better turn in. As far as wheel hop, these are not your answer. If you are getting wheel hop in a turn, either give it less gas or buy a limited slip diff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry I should clarify the wheel hop is in a drag scenario. The other questions are related to road race, i have an LSD already.

Cutting the sleeves/spacers sort of preloads the wheels forward then? Such that ut resists weight transfer to the back and upward pressure on the suspension?

 

If you're not bound by any rules, another solution to the caster adjustment is to thread the radius arm the whole length of the smaller diameter, then you can use 2 nuts to allow infinite adjustability of the caster without having to mess about with cutting the sleeve into little short bits.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're not bound by any rules, another solution to the caster adjustment is to thread the radius arm the whole length of the smaller diameter, then you can use 2 nuts to allow infinite adjustability of the caster without having to mess about with cutting the sleeve into little short bits.

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I have no rules So this is with the OPMs, then you do what you said above to allow infinite adjustability, right?

Any disadvantages? (Other than harsher ride)

 

Wonder if they'll work for a 5th gen Prelude.

 

Ask corey, he has them. He told me they were pretty worthwhile.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wonder if they'll work for a 5th gen Prelude.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't see why they wouldn't, I am running 5th gen knuckles on a 4th gen radius rod and crossmember, so I am assuming they are the same.

Only the SH would be cautious. It has a totally different rod design that goes all the way out to the lower ball joint.

 

I've got them on my 2nd gen integra they didn't really fix much wheel hop, maybe a little, but I'm geting just a little hop on a hard second gear shift.
On the advice of a fellow g2icer I used 12mm washers as spacers and only have a little bit of the stock sleeve on each side to prevent binding.

Obvious disadvantage is the increased upkeep, you've got to periodically clean them and make sure they stay lubed.
I'm gonna try to make a dust shield outta my old rubber rear shock covers.

 

Not that it relates to drag racing, but the biggest change I felt in my Civic from the OPM radius rod bearings was under hard braking. With the stock rubber units the car would "wander" and "squirm" a bit when hard on the brakes.
Its steady as a rock with the OPM pieces.

 

I used the ES bushings on my civic and it made a huge diff
The difference for me is felt under braking like catch said above ,as the Rad rod basically fixes the control arm/knuckle to the body. If the bushing is bad when you go to brake the wheel stops but the body of the car keeps moving forward untill the bushing bottoms out, this can be felt if you know the diff if not you might think its normal.So using the OMP part can't do anything but help.

On my next car I'll replace it with the OMP bearing.

 

These bushing do two things, they eliminate the slop in the radius arm, that can cause ill handling, and they can be shimmed to correctly setup caster.

I manufacture the same type of bushing only mine has a stronger backing plate that is radiused to fit the pocket where the rubber bushing was. These are minor but necessary corrections to the design.

The will fit a variety of Honda's and Acrua's and I can fabricate special ones if necessary.

You can order them at my website http://sbmsinc.com/photos/radius_0.JPG

Tom Blaney

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not that it relates to drag racing, but the biggest change I felt in my Civic from the OPM radius rod bearings was under hard braking. With the stock rubber units the car would "wander" and "squirm" a bit when hard on the brakes.
Its steady as a rock with the OPM pieces.</TD></TR></TABLE>

aah, that answers my question. i have noticed bad lca bushings make the car wander as well.

-spenc

 

My car squirms like crazy under hard braking at the track. I have been using all stock bushing. If these fit on 5th gen and they do in fact help to get rid of the squirm'n, sign me up!

 

Aren't these illegal for some classes? (ie. st & sp Autocross classes)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tom Blaney &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">These bushing do two things, they eliminate the slop in the radius arm, that can cause ill handling, and they can be shimmed to correctly setup caster.

I manufacture the same type of bushing only mine has a stronger backing plate that is radiused to fit the pocket where the rubber bushing was. These are minor but necessary corrections to the design.

The will fit a variety of Honda's and Acrua's and I can fabricate special ones if necessary.

You can order them at my website http://sbmsinc.com/photos/radius_0.JPG

Tom Blaney</TD></TR></TABLE>

those look awesome! check your IM

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

those look awesome! check your IM</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just picked up a set of those, and am in the process of installing them. Like I said above, if your rules allow it, threading the radius arm fully will allow infinite adjustment, rather than having to mess with spacers.

I'll let you know in a couple of days how it works. I'm just about done installing them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I just picked up a set of those, and am in the process of installing them. Like I said above, if your rules allow it, threading the radius arm fully will allow infinite adjustment, rather than having to mess with spacers.

I'll let you know in a couple of days how it works. I'm just about done installing them.

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thanks for the info. this is just my street car with occasional lapping so I probably don't need the infinte caster adjustment, just something nice and solid to tighten up a mushy front end. but if you can get somepics of the mods you did for infinite adjustment that would be great, thanks.

 

That is very true, if your rules allow threading of the rod, it makes the adjustment very simple. I suggest using fiber lock nuts on the threaded rod, or at least use double lock nuts, since there is a lot of vibration being transmitted to the rods.

 

I'll take some pics later tonight and post them up for you.

 

much appreciated thanks.

 

I haven't done this ore really looked into it too hard, but the arms off of an 87 LXi accord look like a possible fit, and are adjustable. It'd be worth swinging by the junkyard to check it out, love to know if it works. Also may want to take a look at the A sports setup, a little pricey, but a similiar design could be built relatively cheap.

 

Hey I was having a talk one of my mechanics who road races his prelude a lot and he was saying that the bearing wouldn't be very good for a street car. Due to the potholes bumps etc the bearing would take quite a beating and probably be worn out within the year. He recommended polyurethane replacements instead for longer life.

Any comments about that? Thanks.