ok, i've heard romers that on a cbr street bike that the tps is bardwards, like a dx(88-91). is this true?

 

I thought it was the same as the car, I would like to know for sure......

 

Yes bart, the wires simply are backwards like on a dual point, so essentially you would have to undo the change to the tps sensor that you did when you did when you would have done your swap, or in your case(hf car) you will have to reverse the outer two wires.

halfway down this page.
"On the Honda unit, FPR is the same fit as the ones on our cars, and the TPS is just reversed signal, like dpfi, so you just have to reverse your wires but the range is correct. Throttle cable pulley accepts the stock cable nicely, just have to extend the bracket out. "

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2

 

allright.....once again thanks

 

i wish i could punch bart right now...

 

me to!!, oh wait, i am bart

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RenoRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes bart, the wires simply are backwards like on a dual point, so essentially you would have to undo the change to the tps sensor that you did when you did when you would have done your swap, or in your case(hf car) you will have to reverse the outer two wires.


https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2</TD></TR></TABLE>

man i'm glad i just read this, thank you search

 

On another note, I swapped out the cars stock tps and plugged it right in with no problems going on a few weeks now. I actually forgot that a switching of wires was neccessary.

 

what did you do with that **** for adjusting the idle?
and what source did you use for the map? (ie: 2 vacumn lines off 1 runner or 4 lines, 1 of each runner...or whatever) and are you using 954rr injectors?

 

That **** didn't do much for the high idle i had(2000rpms). If you look at the atmosphere side of the throttle bodies you'll see several little holes between each runner, those are the holes that are opened by that idle ****. To get a lower Idle I just partially covered those holes and it yielded a perfect 900rpm idle.

For the map and fuel pressure regulator I ran a line from each runner to my golden eagle vaccum manifold, then one line to the fpr and the map, and the large end port came with a fitting that is made for the brake booster line. Brakes feel stiff as before and no codes, runs great, ask wu tang, i beat his *** last night. lol

 

sweet, what kind of injectors you running?
so did you take that idle **** assembly right off?

 

I'm running the stock fuel of the b16, i replaced the cbr injectors with non obd b16 injectors and left the cbr rail and lines on so that I could plug those in and try them out too but for now I'm just running the stock b16 location rather than the itb fuel delivery.

I left the entire idle assembly on there.

 

cool,
i need to look into the cbr inkectors to see if they will work with hondata, if so i need to grab the injector clips off of a cbr, and i am try to figure a way to take off the idle assy and fab somthin cleaner lookin

 

if you flip the whole setup over then you only see the plain side of the throttle bodies, none of the fuel setup, idle thing, or any of that.

 

i was thinkin about that too

 

Hey Reno im doing the same thing CBR ITB on a b16 i was wondering if you have some pics i could look at and what did you do for the IACV and vaccums.. I need to find out more info so my shop could start this. they dont want to start and not be able to finish it so they want me to find out the details of this project. please help me out thanks

 

Yeah, pm me if you have questions. For the Idle air control i just left it plugged in, rerouted the coolant lines to bypass it and have it ziptied to the firewall, intake air temperature is just dangling next to the runners, i have a vaccum line from each runner to the golden eagle manifold, then one line from the manifold to the map and one to the fuel pressure regulator. Then i used the fitting supplied with the manifold kit to go to the brake booster. I cant think of a better kit other than the golden eagle one for this specific application just because there are exactly the correct amount of ports and one big one just for the brake booster. Brakes feel great, car runs smooth and pulls great, no codes on chipped ecu and stock everything else!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RenoRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, pm me if you have questions. For the Idle air control i just left it plugged in, rerouted the coolant lines to bypass it and have it ziptied to the firewall, intake air temperature is just dangling next to the runners, i have a vaccum line from each runner to the golden eagle manifold, then one line from the manifold to the map and one to the fuel pressure regulator. Then i used the fitting supplied with the manifold kit to go to the brake booster. I cant think of a better kit other than the golden eagle one for this specific application just because there are exactly the correct amount of ports and one big one just for the brake booster. Brakes feel great, car runs smooth and pulls great, no codes on chipped ecu and stock everything else!</TD></TR></TABLE>

So nothing crazy with the fuel managment?
-PHiZ

 

Nope, completely stock... injectors, rail, regulator, pump. The ecu is a $10 ebay chipped pr4 with a 9k rev limiter. Had this setup for about two months now. Just put a vafcII in there last week but haven't played with it at all.

 

How does the throttle cable feel the way you have it set up. I have my ITB turned the other way and had to make a long bracket for it. The throttle is real touchy, when I give it gas it stays reved and I have to pull the gas pedel back to bring it down. But if I do it to much then the car dies.

 

it feels fine. when i first put them on i had the cable to tight and experienced what you describe, a slight stick. but loosened it up and now it's got quick response and downrev.

 

geez it looks like that cable is gonna fray

 

that's what i was worried about at first and i actually started to make a little bracket with a roller bearing for the throttle cable guide but after two months of daily driving(about 30 miles a day) it shows no signs of any damage, it actually just rounded out the edge of the bracket a little and now it's real smooth.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So nothing crazy with the fuel managment?
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>


Sometimes they run well off the stock ECU, sometimes they run fukt.

I'll have datalog's of a couple cars soon, see if I can figure out why.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Sometimes they run well off the stock ECU, sometimes they run fukt.

I'll have datalog's of a couple cars soon, see if I can figure out why.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I offered my services to a guy in boston to work on his setup, his is real nice, no silicone hose couplings killing smooth airflow. But it's droppping about 20HP. so it need toonering. We should start a thread on fundamentals of managment. I believe you have to rely less on MAP, and more on TPS........ I'm very curious.

-PHiZ