ModlesSI

Okay... recently, my stock headgasket has gone to ****. My setup is just a Greddy kit on a stock block b16 @ 6-8psi. Would you guys recommend a thicker headgasket and which one? Also, would it be wise to get some ARP headstuds at the same time?

Thanks

camp1320.com

You could get a ticker one, to reduce you compression ratio. If you are only going to boost 6-8psi. stay with stock. If you wannna boost 10psi+ got with a cometic one really cheap and comes in all sizes.

Machine1

Get the head studs

I'm not a fan of reusing stock head bolts, and the studs make it a lot easier to line up the head with the block.

We used a cometic gasket(stock size) and are running 12-14psi of boost. I'd recommend it.

gitwidit

You should never reuse factory head bolts on hondas. They are "torque to yield" bolts. Might as well pay a few more $$ and get some studs.

silverCRXTC

how much more boost can you run with these headgaskets?

TurboJesse

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silverCRXTC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much more boost can you run with these headgaskets?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i run 1 bar (14.7psi) on pump gas, some people run 20+psi on race gas..

Chrome Pipes

I'm running 16 psi with a 2mm InlinePro headgasket and ARP's.

GaDawgs

i've got the cometic hi-boost head gasket and the arp head studs because i'm getting my head re-worked. all the number posted about psi on the thick head gasket were on stock blocks?

TurboJesse

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GaDawgs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've got the cometic hi-boost head gasket and the arp head studs because i'm getting my head re-worked. all the number posted about psi on the thick head gasket were on stock blocks?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea

Chrome Pipes

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chrome Pipes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm running 16 psi with a 2mm InlinePro headgasket and ARP's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stock head/block LS/VTEC.

silverCRXTC

Hey Chrome pips how many miles boosted on that headgasket? And what compression does that gasket yield (or how many points it bumps u down?

egturbo

i want to know where to get comectic and arp's for cheap i really need some. thanks for sohc y8

Chrome Pipes

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silverCRXTC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Chrome pips how many miles boosted on that headgasket? And what compression does that gasket yield (or how many points it bumps u down?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My LS/VTEC is a B16A2 head with a B18A block. I used c-speed racing's compression ratio calculator and it came out to around 8.6:1
I don't know how accurate it is, but it is probably ballpark. I run 12 psi on 94 pump gas and 16 psi on C-16 both @ 14 degrees base timing with no BTM and no problems.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php

GaDawgs

thats sweet. i bought my arp's and cometic headgasket from raceeng.com. $95 for headgasket $150 for the studs. do you have qtr. times chrome pipes?

silverCRXTC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chrome Pipes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My LS/VTEC is a B16A2 head with a B18A block. I used c-speed racing's compression ratio calculator and it came out to around 8.6:1
I don't know how accurate it is, but it is probably ballpark. I run 12 psi on 94 pump gas and 16 psi on C-16 both @ 14 degrees base timing with no BTM and no problems.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used that calculator and came out with 8.99-1, i wonder how many pounds i could run with a sc34 and HACK with 440s. Also u haved retarded the timing? i thought with that much boost u should retard it.

And one final question? how many miles have u made with your setup?

Chrome Pipes

I'm not running any sort of real engine management. The car has the stock OBD II B16A2 ECU, V-AFC, RC 440's, Cartech FMU, and a Holly 255 intank. I have a BTM, but its not hooked up. The timing is set at 14 degrees base timing. I don't run the hack because it will only work to the limitations of the stock map sensor, which is 10-11 psi - that's why the Cartech is in there. If you couldn't already tell, it's a real low budget buildup. I know an FMU is not the best solution for a "high" boost application, but it works
I have a little over a thousand miles on the motor. When I got the LS block, it only had like 50 miles on it. It has also spiked to 20 psi once and 17-18 psi a couple of times

My best 1/4 mile time so for was 11.61 @ 120 on 25 in M&H slicks. I ran a 12.6 on BFG's. The car weighs 2550 with me in it and is still street driven.

Click the link to see everything else:
http://www.gtrmotorsports.net/bios/jaybio.html

liveforphysics

I just wanted to remind you guys that its not just a ratio of CR, PSI and octane to determine if you are going to be safe or not.

Dropping CR with a thicker HG causes your preicious squish area to be made less effective. It also increases pockets for endgass to be trapped in as well as lowering the mechanical efficency which your engine can change pressure into mechanical force.

It does lower the pressure level of the burning mixture which does help to drop knock, but it also does the above things, some of which casue higher chance of knock.

Squish is extreamly important in any situation where knock is a concern, thicker HG reduces squish.

I may work out perfect for your application, as it has for many. I just wanted to make sure you know its drop in CR comes at a much much larger expence then lower comp pistons.

-Luke