Modified by Dturbocivic at 8:43 PM 4/18/2004

 

rob moore spindle...chopped....we are going to add some plates to the 4 sides of it for added strength.

 

Hows the Axle Angles?

 

pretty good, not completly straight, but 100 times better than stock.

we made solid motor mounts.

 

Hey you have a flat tire........

Looks nice. 28's damn thats huge.

 

That's scary, I would be sure to stress releive it when you are done welding,
otherwise it's gonna be brittle.

I tryed something like this on a road race car awhile
back, the bump steer went to hell. Might be a good idea to check that as well.

Is either control arm straight across at racing ride height?

Steve

Steve

 

Thats crazy.

 

wow that is huge!!! wait till you warm up the tires!!

 

lol thats big...really really big ...

 

Is that a B-series tilted forward?

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostingSnail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that a B-series tilted forward?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes it is.

racer steve ---
the angles on the control arms are pretty much parrallel with eachother.

 

Nice!

 

good idea, poor execution. you can not lower the upper with out raising the lower...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good idea, poor execution. you can not lower the upper with out raising the lower...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Explain...I think you are saying his suspension geometry is jacked now?

 

by lowering the upper outboard balljoint, the instant center moves wayyyyyy farther out, and the roll center goes haywire. While this might not be as much of a concern on a drag car as on a car that turns, it still does sort of raise a caution flag in my mind. Essentiall... if you want to change the upper you also need to change the lower, but the lwoer is much more difficult to do this to, as it bears the majority of the load due to acceleration. Much higher risk involved here..

I have been designing a spindle that will retain the proper geometry yet allow you to slam on a 28... its a lot of work, which i think is why it hasnt been done yet.

how much do those nitro spindles go for?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Explain...I think you are saying his suspension geometry is jacked now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

seems like lots of bump steer now?

 

i doubt it will bumpsteer, as the inboard locations of the upper, lower and tie rods have not changed, but bumpsteer is a mystical beast that arises when you least expect it!

 

so basicly what you are saying is that the hub should be moved in the spindle and leave the spindle at the length that it was before we modified it? than we would need to construct a new fork for the shock as well as find a short shock to work in our application.


shed the light. im a dumbass sometimes.

am i way off?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i doubt it will bumpsteer, as the inboard locations of the upper, lower and tie rods have not changed, but bumpsteer is a mystical beast that arises when you least expect it!</TD></TR></TABLE>

true i didnt think about it like that.
Yea he could always measure it out. But like you said i dont think it will either.
The caster is not going to change with that either will it?
What about SAI?

 

you cant exactly move the hub, the correct way is to fabricate a spindle from scratch. i thought you were sponsored by z10 or something dave? cant they help you out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tHIS oNE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

true i didnt think about it like that.
Yea he could always measure it out. But like you said i dont think it will either.
The caster is not going to change with that either will it?
What about SAI?</TD></TR></TABLE>


caster wont change and neither will the sai

 

How did Gardella and Kenny's car work so well?

Wait...I think they both have Macpherson setups...*Hmmmm*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant exactly move the hub, the correct way is to fabricate a spindle from scratch. i thought you were sponsored by z10 or something dave? cant they help you out</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, na they arent sponsoring me. i just got my oil system from them, and jim has been helpful in answering my questions, i put their name in my sig cause i believe they produce good products and are nice/helpful people too.(i havent found many people in the industry that are willing to sit and talk for 6 hours when they could be getting other work done and making the $$)

i have asked jim and jerry about this and they seem to think it is not a very bad idea. im not completly sure about how much of the spindle they recomended to cut out, but we cut about 2 inches out of the spindle.

when we cut the 2 inchs out of the spindle, it moves the upper control arm back down, but also moves the ball joint away from the body. ........

im not completely understanding what you guys are thinking

 

read this book, when you understand it i will help you

http://www.sae.org/servlets/pr...R-146

once you understand that i can help you do a simulation on a variety of suspension behaviors so you can actually cycle the suspension and see the numerical changes.



cutting the spindle out 2 inches is actually a huge amount, and while it looks good on the car, its scary on paper.

z10 may not think its a bad idea, but they also think their traction bars work well.
You dont understand what im thinking because you havent learned about suspension geomtry yet. if you are serious about learning the stuff, ill help you, but most people arent.