a N20 build...
Hello all,
First of all Im considering a nitrous set-up for my daily driver. I wont be listing specific brands for the parts as this is still a thought. The build will be something like this:
B16A or B18B block with forged rods and forged pistons (c/r 10.5+/-....still up in the air as with everything else)
B16A head
Direct Port Nitrous system of some sort
255lph fuel pump
progressive controller
bigger injectors
hondata
clutch upgrade
block guard
adjustable cam gears
CTR or ITR cams or ??? suggestions...
Anyway I would like to run with stock sleeves because that would save some money plus im sure they could handle a pretty decent sized shot. The shot I would like to be ~125 with some race gas but, I really dont know if such a build could handle that kind of shot hence the post
The progressive controller should help ease stress on the engine I think. Also this sort of shot will not be used very often at all, only at the track.
Thanks!!!
EP
First of all Im considering a nitrous set-up for my daily driver. I wont be listing specific brands for the parts as this is still a thought. The build will be something like this:
B16A or B18B block with forged rods and forged pistons (c/r 10.5+/-....still up in the air as with everything else)
B16A head
Direct Port Nitrous system of some sort
255lph fuel pump
progressive controller
bigger injectors
hondata
clutch upgrade
block guard
adjustable cam gears
CTR or ITR cams or ??? suggestions...
Anyway I would like to run with stock sleeves because that would save some money plus im sure they could handle a pretty decent sized shot. The shot I would like to be ~125 with some race gas but, I really dont know if such a build could handle that kind of shot hence the post
The progressive controller should help ease stress on the engine I think. Also this sort of shot will not be used very often at all, only at the track.Thanks!!!
EP
with what you have listed here are some of my suggestions,
ls block
forged rods
11.0:1 pistons
blockguard
headstuds
ctr cams
type r springs and retainers
type r intake manifold
type r tb
jdm type r header
mitsu 450 injectors
gsr water pump, oil pump and t-belt
hondata
100 shot single fogger wet
b16 tranny.
this setup is proven and its cheap to do....
ls block
forged rods
11.0:1 pistons
blockguard
headstuds
ctr cams
type r springs and retainers
type r intake manifold
type r tb
jdm type r header
mitsu 450 injectors
gsr water pump, oil pump and t-belt
hondata
100 shot single fogger wet
b16 tranny.
this setup is proven and its cheap to do....
since your Cams and Compression is not very aggressive it might not be necessary to get a Hondata. you are better off with a V-AFC.
Hondata will be expensive to tune. Once your tuned you will have to get it re-tuned and pay again if you make changes. it's also less expensive to tune a V-AFC.
also, 310's should be more than enough altho DSM 440's or 450's are less expensive. you will not need a great deal of fuel when running all motor and when ur spraying you can tune the nitrous accordingly.
if your only spraying a 100 it might not be necessary to use the nitrous controller. it might help a little with traction but it might not be worth the cost.
what Type of HP #'s or ET's are you trying to reach? what is your goal?
Hondata will be expensive to tune. Once your tuned you will have to get it re-tuned and pay again if you make changes. it's also less expensive to tune a V-AFC.
also, 310's should be more than enough altho DSM 440's or 450's are less expensive. you will not need a great deal of fuel when running all motor and when ur spraying you can tune the nitrous accordingly.
if your only spraying a 100 it might not be necessary to use the nitrous controller. it might help a little with traction but it might not be worth the cost.
what Type of HP #'s or ET's are you trying to reach? what is your goal?
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I was actually wondering if hondata was really necessary. A large concern is how the car would run when not using nitrous with larger injectors, so the V-AFC would be able to control them in both situations on the fly? Oh also, would I need an ignition upgrade? Retarding the timing is something that might have to be done. As for HP goals I would like at least 250whp with a 100 shot assuming around 150whp will be from the engine N/A. However the eventual 1/4 mile goal is 11's with slicks
. Im pretty sure I would need like a 150 shot or something to even come close to that. Thanks for the advice everyone!!!
EP
Modified by Saki0 at 2:21 PM 1/16/2004
. Im pretty sure I would need like a 150 shot or something to even come close to that. Thanks for the advice everyone!!!
EP
Modified by Saki0 at 2:21 PM 1/16/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Killer_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since your Cams and Compression is not very aggressive it might not be necessary to get a Hondata. you are better off with a V-AFC.
Hondata will be expensive to tune. Once your tuned you will have to get it re-tuned and pay again if you make changes. it's also less expensive to tune a V-AFC.
also, 310's should be more than enough altho DSM 440's or 450's are less expensive. you will not need a great deal of fuel when running all motor and when ur spraying you can tune the nitrous accordingly.
if your only spraying a 100 it might not be necessary to use the nitrous controller. it might help a little with traction but it might not be worth the cost.
what Type of HP #'s or ET's are you trying to reach? what is your goal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
as far as why i suggested a hondata unit over a v-afc is because it is a good investment if you plan on moving up eventually. the v-afc is limited to what parameters it can control. the hondata is a much better tuning aid over an afc.
as far as the injectors first off they are cheaper that is one of the reasons why i chose them, but not only because they are cheap but if in the future if you plan on maybe uping the compression and changing the cams then you have enough injector still.
Hondata will be expensive to tune. Once your tuned you will have to get it re-tuned and pay again if you make changes. it's also less expensive to tune a V-AFC.
also, 310's should be more than enough altho DSM 440's or 450's are less expensive. you will not need a great deal of fuel when running all motor and when ur spraying you can tune the nitrous accordingly.
if your only spraying a 100 it might not be necessary to use the nitrous controller. it might help a little with traction but it might not be worth the cost.
what Type of HP #'s or ET's are you trying to reach? what is your goal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
as far as why i suggested a hondata unit over a v-afc is because it is a good investment if you plan on moving up eventually. the v-afc is limited to what parameters it can control. the hondata is a much better tuning aid over an afc.
as far as the injectors first off they are cheaper that is one of the reasons why i chose them, but not only because they are cheap but if in the future if you plan on maybe uping the compression and changing the cams then you have enough injector still.
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scUba-stEve
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
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Oct 14, 2004 10:17 AM



