i was curious what would be needed to run about 100 direct in a b16a? i was already planning on getting eagle rods, some new pistons, a block guard, and building the head w/ skunk 2 valvetrain, cams, cam gears, and intake manifold. i'm guessing i'm going to be needing fuel upgrades like a fuel pressure regulator, maybe a vafc, and a fuel pump. any ideas on what would be best to run this.
thanks

 

Stainless steel valves, otherwise it seems the motor would be fine I'd think. No more all motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sporkcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> No more all motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

laziness is kicking in and saving up for a b18 block is kinda expensive.. i also cam across a 100 NOS direct port set up w/ a purge for 225. so i figured i would pick up on that.

 

Just admit it, FI is in your blood now, you can't walk away from it. Welcome back!

 

i was thinking about running something similar to stock compression w/ those new pistons.. like a 10.5 or 10.2.. would that be safe?

 

check my response at the link below. maybe you can find something that may help you. 100 will be safe with the parts you listed


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=500003

 

VAFC is nice, I used to have one but sold it for a Hondata. For the price, go for a Hondata, IMO. Other than that your setup sounds good to me.

 

would stock pistons really shatter under such a big shot? i was thinking about getting some new itr pistons.

 

I would get forged pistons if you plan on doing a 100 shot.
I would get some nice JE's in a 10-11:1

I would also look into the Zdyne. It has the capabililty to retard the timing while your spraying only, and it will make tuning a hell of a lot easier.

Don't forget the 2 step colder plugs!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would get forged pistons if you plan on doing a 100 shot.
I would get some nice JE's in a 10-11:1</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think they only make SRP's for the B16A unless you want to get custom JE's.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would also look into the Zdyne. It has the capabililty to retard the timing while your spraying only, and it will make tuning a hell of a lot easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hondata also just came out with nitrous control that also does this.

 

Fisrst of all, All JE's are custom made. Many people stock them. SRP is a sub corporation of JE. The SRP's may be able to take the punishment, but just to make sure I would go with the lower silicon content of the JE's.

Secondly, If his user name is correct, this is a OBDO CRX. Hondata as far as I know, only makes OBD1+ standalones. The Zdyne will be his only option if he's OBDO.

 

they do make hondata for pre obd PR3 and PW0 ecu's

 

I had a friend that ran a 125 shot on a stock SOHC y8 motor in a 89 civic hatch. Ran a 12 something three times....then blew it up.

I have another friend running 100shot on a stock b16a (direct port) without any problems as yet.

liam

 

It'll hold for a good while if you tune the fuel and ignition timing correctly. If you want to spray alot go with forged internals.
Also, a 100 shot won't shatter a piston. Bad tuning and detonation will, but not nitrous. The worst I've seen is a 125 shot splitting a piston and that is because the injector failed and it was a dry kit.

 

stock--80 shot DP and make sure the timing is correct and the fuel is there.

with forged pistons and Eagle rods--100-125 shot no problem, with tuning

go with 11:1 C/R forged pistons, the rods for strength, ARP headstuds, OEM HG and SS valves with bronze valveguides and stiffer springs. don't get cams that are too aggressive, CTR or Skunk2 stage 1 cams are good. cleaning up the head a bit is a good idea, the combustion chamber and valve seats especially.

run NGK BKR7E-11 plugs, a fuel pump, and a FPR for higher injection DP systems. a stronger ignition is normally a good idea with larger injections from 100 shot on up. and use a .030-.035" plug gap as well. forget about the blockguard, don't waste the $$ on one.

Hondata is great, much better than the VAFC type stuff. also you can run a stock ECU with ignition retard control without using Hondata if you don't want to spend the $$. as long as the ignition timing is correct and the fuel is there the built motor will handle 100-125 shot fine.