is this how i convert an auto p28 to manual? cut out the resistors at rb17 and rb18, then solder in a line across rb18.

-brian

 

that is correct

 

Here is a PIC

 

not to jack your thread or anything, but how do you tell the difference between an auto and a manual p28?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzntaggeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not to jack your thread or anything, but how do you tell the difference between an auto and a manual p28?</TD></TR></TABLE>

for usdm obd1 ecu, you look at the second to last number of the code. if its a 5, you have an auto, if any other number, its a 5 speed. and for a jdm obd1 ecu, you look at the last 3 numbers, if its 900 or 901 you have an auto.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ARIZONA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Here is a PIC</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is what i was wondering about, my ecu right now have a resistor at the rp18 slot. could i just leave the rp18 as is and just remove the rp17 resistor. or would the voltage across rp18 be too low, needing me to remove the resistor and installing a jumper. as you can see, i'm trying to find a way out of having to solder, i dont really trust myself with the soldering gun

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lazyassbrian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm trying to find a way out of having to solder, i dont really trust myself with the soldering gun </TD></TR></TABLE>

then you just need to replace the ecu... don't be stupid if you think are
soldering isn't all that hard... you just need some experience, patience, and a steady hand. if you don't have all three, why risk messing up an entire ecu?

i don't know 100% if putting a jumper in there will work, but it will still require some soldering - if you want to do it right.


Modified by jwn7 at 9:12 PM 2/4/2004

 

I have a p28 ecu, not sure if its auto or manual. I read the post, checked the numbers, and by that, i believe it is a manual. But then i looked at the pictures, and my ecu doesn't match the resistor layout of the manual pictured. My ECU number is: 37820-p28-a02 760-761290 made by IPT and it has AWL on it. The layout of the resistors are as follows:

nothing in rp3, rp17, rp5 or rp14
rp4, rp8, rp7, rp18, rp6 and rp13 have resistors in them

What would be your guess on this ecu?

Thanks,

-Paul

 

just cut rp17 and ur done if there is already a resistor on rp18...thats what i did and its been fine for over a year

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just cut rp17 and ur done if there is already a resistor on rp18...thats what i did and its been fine for over a year</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what I did on My P08 lastnight JDM resistors= mad small
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=753691

 

its a manual

another way to check is if there are anything in IC16 and IC15, you have a board that was originaly an auto

 

I will check when i get home.

Thanks!

 

bump for good info....

 

nothing in IC16 or IC15 so i have a manual. Thanks for the info! You all have been a big help.

 

your know whats weird i checke my ic 15 and ic16 and there empty but my rp17 has a resistor and the piic shows rp17 empty..

 

out of curiousity.. What would be the best chip for a p28 in a 2001 Gs-R,

 

just wanted to say thanx. i have an auto p28 running my jdm d15b vtec. i went to the local shop and asked him about converting it to manual and he quoted me $100. i grabbed out of my car real quick and took out the rp17 resistor and hooked it back up and its all good, crappy idling is gone and no cel. thanks guys!