well i'm on my never ending search for useful gauges, stumbled across some cheep new VDO gauges, one was a mechanical oil pressure gauge, we have some VDO gauges in the GTI and I personally love them. So whats your take, yay or nay? I really dont want to get autometer oil pres. gauge do to the friggn huge sender

 

heres a pic

 

I have a mechanical oil press. gauge and i like it, no problems yet.
Here is how i did it:
Got the adapters and lines at mccarr.

 

sweet, i was browsing again and found a electric one and the sender is more then the gauge guess i'll go VDO mechanical then

 

Where does that steel braided line go to because i have a gauge but i havent installed it yet. been too busy.. where did you connect it to the block?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Red D Dragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where does that steel braided line go to because i have a gauge but i havent installed it yet. been too busy.. where did you connect it to the block?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I connected it by where the stock oil pressure switch used to be.
1/8 bspt to 1/8 npt adapter and the hose is 1/8 npt.

 

mine started to leak @ the teflon hose joints, just a little bit, 1 drip every month or so

Next time Imma go electrical

 

the only problem with mechanicl is the line that connects to the guage. if that ever does get damanged it will blow your engine if not caught in timley manner. I would run stainlles line rather than the plastic that comes with the kits.

 

If you guys do use the plastic line, go to home depot or whatever and pick up something thicker plastic hose to put over the little one. The thicker hose will sheild the little one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18bturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only problem with mechanicl is the line that connects to the guage. if that ever does get damanged it will blow your engine if not caught in timley manner. I would run stainlles line rather than the plastic that comes with the kits.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Even if you get an electrical one, you still should mount it on the fire wall. Its very stupid to mount the sender directly on the block, specially with Honda engines because there High Revving motors. Here is how I mounted mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

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very nice, i plan on mounting mine this way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Even if you get an electrical one, you still should mount it on the fire wall. Its very stupid to mount the sender directly on the block, specially with Honda engines because there High Revving motors. Here is how I mounted mine.

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OK, I'm clueless. why not mount it on the bolck?

 

I would assume heat and vibration.

 

As mentioned above, be wary of the oil line on the mechanical gauges. I had mine come lose from the back of the gauge. Oil went everywhere.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jweller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

OK, I'm clueless. why not mount it on the bolck?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well the sender is not a little piece, as you can see. You also need a fitting to make it fit on the block so that adds to the weight plus it sticks out pretty far. So with the vibration of the motor it can fall off. It has happen to a few people on here. It even states in the instructions, do not mount it on the block if you have a high rev motor.

 

anyone have any pics of how the hose connects to the gauge....

 

In the pic of the electric sending unit mounted on the firewall it looks like there is a copper flex line going to pressure on the motor. If that is a copper line, why won't it fatigue and break? The remote mount seems to combine the bad parts of the mechanical and electrical sending units.

 

Why would it fatigue and break ? Maybe if it moved back and forth but it don't. There is plenty of flex in the line, plus I have hasport mounts so the engine does not even move at all.

 

Even if the motor is solid mounted, it will vibrate. Copper has a very low fatigue life. Are there any brackets holding the line along its length? The longer the length of tubing without support, the more likely it is to vibrate.

I know I have seen similar systems work just fine, but I have also seen fuel and brake lines either crack from such vibrations or loosen at the fittings and leak.

 

There are no brackets holding it but I see no problem with it. I have had it like this for a year and it has not even shown any signs of coming loose or showing signs of weakness. Also the copper line is from autometer, so if it was likely to break I don't think autometer would sell it.


Modified by 90blackcrx at 6:35 PM 12/31/2003