What do you think of this blocks condintion?? 6 pics
I may be buying this, in fact most likely will. It will be completly rebuilt with .5mm overbore(or hone?), new pistons, rods, etc.
Oh, it is a b20z block.
The surface rust should come right out with the boring, so I shouldn't have any problems?? Or should I just go with a hone? There is a little rust on the number 1 rod where it meets the crank too.
Please, only honest answers...and don't answer if you don't really know. I want experienced opinions.

Oh, it is a b20z block.
The surface rust should come right out with the boring, so I shouldn't have any problems?? Or should I just go with a hone? There is a little rust on the number 1 rod where it meets the crank too.
Please, only honest answers...and don't answer if you don't really know. I want experienced opinions.
Hey bro - if you're throwing new pistons in it and plan on boring and or honeing i wouldn't even worry about the cylinders. You need to look at the crank journals because 0.5mm will take down most scraches in the bore. You don't wana have to turn down a journal, you're better off not buying it or buying a new crank. Look for scoring and a copper like material on the bearings. You are probably going to want to replace that rusty tensioner pully too! and the usual TLC steam cleaning by the machine shop. Other than that it looks good. It looks like it dosen't have many miles on it but has been sitting outside for a while. Also most of that rust is just surface rust and can be taken off with even carb cleaner.
BTW: i thought you already had a B20 in your HX? You building a badboy, or just another one for someone else?
Also: we're going to need to meet up sometime - you're only 45min. north of me!!!
[Modified by stizzit, 10:10 PM 9/24/2001]
BTW: i thought you already had a B20 in your HX? You building a badboy, or just another one for someone else?
Also: we're going to need to meet up sometime - you're only 45min. north of me!!!
[Modified by stizzit, 10:10 PM 9/24/2001]
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OK.
What you want to do is buy that block. And send it to the machine shop and have it checked. The sleeves are fine, I can tell by just looking at it, that its nothing...
its the crank I worry about. What you CAN do is get that thing line honed. And that crank balanced, along with the honing of the journals.
Then, you have to check each bearing clearance with plasti-guage to get perfect fit.
Total cost of getting it line honed, crank balanced and sleeves bored and honed should be a total of about:
$320 to $400. Depending on the price of the balance...most places is from $150-$200.
Jeff
What you want to do is buy that block. And send it to the machine shop and have it checked. The sleeves are fine, I can tell by just looking at it, that its nothing...
its the crank I worry about. What you CAN do is get that thing line honed. And that crank balanced, along with the honing of the journals.
Then, you have to check each bearing clearance with plasti-guage to get perfect fit.
Total cost of getting it line honed, crank balanced and sleeves bored and honed should be a total of about:
$320 to $400. Depending on the price of the balance...most places is from $150-$200.
Jeff
Conclusion - probably the crank is the biggest issue.
I talked to several machine shops and crankshaft shops and all of them told me that most of the Bseries honda cranks are already balanced so well that it's silly for them to touch it. Also you usually shouldn't have to align hone it either. Your machinist will be able to tell you 100% however align honing is much more important when you have directions of motion like a V8.
What you can do: Take the crank out, plastigauge the mains and make sure they're tighter than about 0.0017", a good range is 0.0015-0.0017". Look for visible scoring, measure crank run-out with a runout gauge or feeler gauges if you have to. When you measure your oil clearances remember to do it at as close to room temp as possible or you'll have erroneous results. Make sure you have a helms for any of the Bseries blocks for the torque specs (they're all the same) and of course a torque wrench. Plastiguage is cheap - get it at your local autostore like CarQuest. If those are all okay i highly doubt you will need any align boring/honing.
Keep us updated.
**BTW if you don't remember I just finished building my B20/Vtec, everything was done myself except valve job, boreing and honeing. I ported, reworked chambers, plastigauged bearings and set all tollerances to 0.0016" and #3 main to 0.0017". Reworked the oil pump, you get the idea, I have experience
I talked to several machine shops and crankshaft shops and all of them told me that most of the Bseries honda cranks are already balanced so well that it's silly for them to touch it. Also you usually shouldn't have to align hone it either. Your machinist will be able to tell you 100% however align honing is much more important when you have directions of motion like a V8.
What you can do: Take the crank out, plastigauge the mains and make sure they're tighter than about 0.0017", a good range is 0.0015-0.0017". Look for visible scoring, measure crank run-out with a runout gauge or feeler gauges if you have to. When you measure your oil clearances remember to do it at as close to room temp as possible or you'll have erroneous results. Make sure you have a helms for any of the Bseries blocks for the torque specs (they're all the same) and of course a torque wrench. Plastiguage is cheap - get it at your local autostore like CarQuest. If those are all okay i highly doubt you will need any align boring/honing.
Keep us updated.
**BTW if you don't remember I just finished building my B20/Vtec, everything was done myself except valve job, boreing and honeing. I ported, reworked chambers, plastigauged bearings and set all tollerances to 0.0016" and #3 main to 0.0017". Reworked the oil pump, you get the idea, I have experience
Hey, thanks alot guys....those were some very detailed answers!
I just got an email from the guy selling the block, I guess the rust was not by the crank, but by the piston wrist pin. I guess the guys dad sprayed down the engine to clean it up, and let it sit upside down for a few days, and that is where the rust came in.
I told the guy I will buy the block.... $750 plus shipping sound good to you? Sounds good to me. The only b20z I found in my area was selling for $1700!! That included the head but that is outrageous!
Hey, stizzit...you ever go to Great Lakes Dragway? There is some time to hit the strip yet before it snows. Let me know if you want to go sometime, and I will go to. I would really like to see your car, espically with that b20vtec....also, it will be nice to talk to someone who actually knows their **** about hondas. PM me or reply to this.
Thanks!!
I just got an email from the guy selling the block, I guess the rust was not by the crank, but by the piston wrist pin. I guess the guys dad sprayed down the engine to clean it up, and let it sit upside down for a few days, and that is where the rust came in.
I told the guy I will buy the block.... $750 plus shipping sound good to you? Sounds good to me. The only b20z I found in my area was selling for $1700!! That included the head but that is outrageous!
Hey, stizzit...you ever go to Great Lakes Dragway? There is some time to hit the strip yet before it snows. Let me know if you want to go sometime, and I will go to. I would really like to see your car, espically with that b20vtec....also, it will be nice to talk to someone who actually knows their **** about hondas. PM me or reply to this.
Thanks!!
yea $750 is a pretty good deal, not a steal, but not overpriced. Now if you could get it for $800 shipped - that's a deal. Also the head on those thing issn't worth jack **** - i have one sitting up in my garage if you want it, only 53 miles heh. I bought my block for $1k - complete longblock with only 53 miles on it - it was brand new hehe.
Hey, you did get a good deal! 53 miles! 
What have you done to your b20z? anything? You really need to go to GLD...sometime.
Who did the VTEC oil lines for you?

What have you done to your b20z? anything? You really need to go to GLD...sometime.
Who did the VTEC oil lines for you?
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