OBD0 -> OBD1 detailed instructions?
Hey guys, I'm doing the conversion for Hondata. I'm using an OBD0->OBD1 ECU conversion harness, P75 ECU, OBD1 LS distributor...not exactly sure which injectors yet. I have a few questions. Will any 4 wire Honda o2 sensor work? Can I use a complete OBD1 engine harness? If not, which wires do I need to splice into for the conversion? If anyone has detailed conversion instructions, I'd really appreciate it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigwig »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.turboedit.org</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why did I Just spend $600 on Hondata
Why did I Just spend $600 on Hondata
Well, there's several sets of instructions floating around. I had a OBD0 car that I was converting to OBDI on the same engine - JDM B16A 1st gen.
What I did was this: go to a wrecking yard, cut off the ECU pins from an OBDI Honda/Acura, then paid for them. They cost me $10 CDN (about $8 USD). I then bought an engine harness from a donor car, that cost me $40 CDN ($33 or so USD). That gave me the O2 sensor plug, the distributor plug, and any other funky plugs I needed. If you're buying an OBDI engine make sure you're getting the harness with the engine as sometimes plugs are different. Next I bought an ECU for the car - in my case I bought an automatic P28 for $100 and chipped it to manual. I also socketed it and tested it with Uberdata before trying to run my car with it. Next I bought the distributor I needed - del Sol VTEC - and then I was ready to go.
Step 1: Swap the distributor into place. Begin by removing the old distrib. Next take the colours coming out of the OBD0 harness and swap them onto the OBDI harness, matching like colours. There are a couple of exceptions - the separate two-wire plugs on OBDI and OBD0 need to be matched up. The 7-wire plugs are similar in colours, however.
Step 2: Wire up the O2 sensor. Cut off the O2 harness plug and wire in the white wire to the white from the new plug. Green and a black wire go to ground, while the other black should go to O2 heater control pinout on the ECU. The colours on the 4-wire harness don't match the O2 sensor so match the colours by installing the O2 sensor and matching pins. Run the wires to ground and the ECU.
Step 3: Label the OBDI plugs. I did this using the guides I found. I labelled each wire to what it was to go to on the OBDI harness, and then spliced them in one at a time, using heat shrink and plenty of solder + patience. There are some OBD0 wires on the harness that are not used. If a wire isn't present, just ignore it. You will probably have to relocate some wires on the OBDI harness - I did. I actually needed some extra ECU pins so I stole a few from the engine harness I bought. They fit and worked fine.
Step 4: Install ECU and test. Everything should work OK. '88-'89 models get the codes by reading the CEL on the dash for flashes with the jumper on the LHS of the engine bay jumped - the timing adjustment connector. '90-'91 models have the connector under the passenger side of the dash - a blue connector.
I know it sounds confusing but read it through many times beforehand and you'll get it
If you get weirdo codes use a multimeter and start tracing wires back to the ECU.
Make sure you test your Hondata in someone else's car before converting to OBDI. Personally I'd pick up an OBD0 ECU for cheap and have it socketed, then start playing with TurboEdit and (my personal fave) BRE.
What I did was this: go to a wrecking yard, cut off the ECU pins from an OBDI Honda/Acura, then paid for them. They cost me $10 CDN (about $8 USD). I then bought an engine harness from a donor car, that cost me $40 CDN ($33 or so USD). That gave me the O2 sensor plug, the distributor plug, and any other funky plugs I needed. If you're buying an OBDI engine make sure you're getting the harness with the engine as sometimes plugs are different. Next I bought an ECU for the car - in my case I bought an automatic P28 for $100 and chipped it to manual. I also socketed it and tested it with Uberdata before trying to run my car with it. Next I bought the distributor I needed - del Sol VTEC - and then I was ready to go.
Step 1: Swap the distributor into place. Begin by removing the old distrib. Next take the colours coming out of the OBD0 harness and swap them onto the OBDI harness, matching like colours. There are a couple of exceptions - the separate two-wire plugs on OBDI and OBD0 need to be matched up. The 7-wire plugs are similar in colours, however.
Step 2: Wire up the O2 sensor. Cut off the O2 harness plug and wire in the white wire to the white from the new plug. Green and a black wire go to ground, while the other black should go to O2 heater control pinout on the ECU. The colours on the 4-wire harness don't match the O2 sensor so match the colours by installing the O2 sensor and matching pins. Run the wires to ground and the ECU.
Step 3: Label the OBDI plugs. I did this using the guides I found. I labelled each wire to what it was to go to on the OBDI harness, and then spliced them in one at a time, using heat shrink and plenty of solder + patience. There are some OBD0 wires on the harness that are not used. If a wire isn't present, just ignore it. You will probably have to relocate some wires on the OBDI harness - I did. I actually needed some extra ECU pins so I stole a few from the engine harness I bought. They fit and worked fine.
Step 4: Install ECU and test. Everything should work OK. '88-'89 models get the codes by reading the CEL on the dash for flashes with the jumper on the LHS of the engine bay jumped - the timing adjustment connector. '90-'91 models have the connector under the passenger side of the dash - a blue connector.
I know it sounds confusing but read it through many times beforehand and you'll get it
If you get weirdo codes use a multimeter and start tracing wires back to the ECU. Make sure you test your Hondata in someone else's car before converting to OBDI. Personally I'd pick up an OBD0 ECU for cheap and have it socketed, then start playing with TurboEdit and (my personal fave) BRE.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hoosier Daddy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why did I Just spend $600 on Hondata
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dunno...TurboEdit is looking sexy with all its new additions....datalogging and auto tune are especially delicious
Why did I Just spend $600 on Hondata
</TD></TR></TABLE>I dunno...TurboEdit is looking sexy with all its new additions....datalogging and auto tune are especially delicious
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, there's several sets of instructions floating around. I had a OBD0 car that I was converting to OBDI on the same engine - JDM B16A 1st gen.
What I did was this: go to a wrecking yard, cut off the ECU pins from an OBDI Honda/Acura, then paid for them. They cost me $10 CDN (about $8 USD). I then bought an engine harness from a donor car, that cost me $40 CDN ($33 or so USD). That gave me the O2 sensor plug, the distributor plug, and any other funky plugs I needed. If you're buying an OBDI engine make sure you're getting the harness with the engine as sometimes plugs are different. Next I bought an ECU for the car - in my case I bought an automatic P28 for $100 and chipped it to manual. I also socketed it and tested it with Uberdata before trying to run my car with it. Next I bought the distributor I needed - del Sol VTEC - and then I was ready to go.
Step 1: Swap the distributor into place. Begin by removing the old distrib. Next take the colours coming out of the OBD0 harness and swap them onto the OBDI harness, matching like colours. There are a couple of exceptions - the separate two-wire plugs on OBDI and OBD0 need to be matched up. The 7-wire plugs are similar in colours, however.
Step 2: Wire up the O2 sensor. Cut off the O2 harness plug and wire in the white wire to the white from the new plug. Green and a black wire go to ground, while the other black should go to O2 heater control pinout on the ECU. The colours on the 4-wire harness don't match the O2 sensor so match the colours by installing the O2 sensor and matching pins. Run the wires to ground and the ECU.
Step 3: Label the OBDI plugs. I did this using the guides I found. I labelled each wire to what it was to go to on the OBDI harness, and then spliced them in one at a time, using heat shrink and plenty of solder + patience. There are some OBD0 wires on the harness that are not used. If a wire isn't present, just ignore it. You will probably have to relocate some wires on the OBDI harness - I did. I actually needed some extra ECU pins so I stole a few from the engine harness I bought. They fit and worked fine.
Step 4: Install ECU and test. Everything should work OK. '88-'89 models get the codes by reading the CEL on the dash for flashes with the jumper on the LHS of the engine bay jumped - the timing adjustment connector. '90-'91 models have the connector under the passenger side of the dash - a blue connector.
I know it sounds confusing but read it through many times beforehand and you'll get it
If you get weirdo codes use a multimeter and start tracing wires back to the ECU.
Make sure you test your Hondata in someone else's car before converting to OBDI. Personally I'd pick up an OBD0 ECU for cheap and have it socketed, then start playing with TurboEdit and (my personal fave) BRE. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you sir
Can I just use a complete OBD1 LS wiring harness instead of splicing distributor wires?
What I did was this: go to a wrecking yard, cut off the ECU pins from an OBDI Honda/Acura, then paid for them. They cost me $10 CDN (about $8 USD). I then bought an engine harness from a donor car, that cost me $40 CDN ($33 or so USD). That gave me the O2 sensor plug, the distributor plug, and any other funky plugs I needed. If you're buying an OBDI engine make sure you're getting the harness with the engine as sometimes plugs are different. Next I bought an ECU for the car - in my case I bought an automatic P28 for $100 and chipped it to manual. I also socketed it and tested it with Uberdata before trying to run my car with it. Next I bought the distributor I needed - del Sol VTEC - and then I was ready to go.
Step 1: Swap the distributor into place. Begin by removing the old distrib. Next take the colours coming out of the OBD0 harness and swap them onto the OBDI harness, matching like colours. There are a couple of exceptions - the separate two-wire plugs on OBDI and OBD0 need to be matched up. The 7-wire plugs are similar in colours, however.
Step 2: Wire up the O2 sensor. Cut off the O2 harness plug and wire in the white wire to the white from the new plug. Green and a black wire go to ground, while the other black should go to O2 heater control pinout on the ECU. The colours on the 4-wire harness don't match the O2 sensor so match the colours by installing the O2 sensor and matching pins. Run the wires to ground and the ECU.
Step 3: Label the OBDI plugs. I did this using the guides I found. I labelled each wire to what it was to go to on the OBDI harness, and then spliced them in one at a time, using heat shrink and plenty of solder + patience. There are some OBD0 wires on the harness that are not used. If a wire isn't present, just ignore it. You will probably have to relocate some wires on the OBDI harness - I did. I actually needed some extra ECU pins so I stole a few from the engine harness I bought. They fit and worked fine.
Step 4: Install ECU and test. Everything should work OK. '88-'89 models get the codes by reading the CEL on the dash for flashes with the jumper on the LHS of the engine bay jumped - the timing adjustment connector. '90-'91 models have the connector under the passenger side of the dash - a blue connector.
I know it sounds confusing but read it through many times beforehand and you'll get it
If you get weirdo codes use a multimeter and start tracing wires back to the ECU. Make sure you test your Hondata in someone else's car before converting to OBDI. Personally I'd pick up an OBD0 ECU for cheap and have it socketed, then start playing with TurboEdit and (my personal fave) BRE. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you sir
Can I just use a complete OBD1 LS wiring harness instead of splicing distributor wires?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellowfever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wouldnt you have to add in a resistor box if you did this because of the injectors you are using?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have a choice. a) You can use OBDI/OBDII injectors but you have to remove the box, or b) You can stick with the stock injector resistor setup and OBD0 injectors. This is the route I went
I'm not sure if you could use the LS harness. I wouldn't know if it plugs into the OBD0 interior harness or not - but I'd doubt it.
You have a choice. a) You can use OBDI/OBDII injectors but you have to remove the box, or b) You can stick with the stock injector resistor setup and OBD0 injectors. This is the route I went

I'm not sure if you could use the LS harness. I wouldn't know if it plugs into the OBD0 interior harness or not - but I'd doubt it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellowfever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wouldnt you have to add in a resistor box if you did this because of the injectors you are using?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I already have a resistor box stock.
I already have a resistor box stock.
And.... using an LS harness would mean no resistor box cause its obd1, so ud either have to do the mod to run your dsm 450cc's with the obd1 harness, or get injectors that work on obd1 harness.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellowfever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And.... using an LS harness would mean no resistor box cause its obd1, so ud either have to do the mod to run your dsm 450cc's with the obd1 harness, or get injectors that work on obd1 harness.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm getting larger injectors of course. 450's aren't gonna cut it.
Do I have to order OBD0 injectors with OBD1 clips? How exactly does it work?
I'm getting larger injectors of course. 450's aren't gonna cut it.
Do I have to order OBD0 injectors with OBD1 clips? How exactly does it work?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you need more info?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do I order OBD0 or OBD1 injectors?
Do I order OBD0 or OBD1 injectors?
You need to buy Peak and Hold injectors.
I did this conversion on my Si a while back. Use the OBD-0 engine harness. The conversion is all done by the OBD-0 to OBD-1 conversion harness. Like Reane said you have to get a OBD-1 LS distributor and swap connectors. You swap connectors to connect the engine harness to the OBD-1 distributor.
I did this conversion on my Si a while back. Use the OBD-0 engine harness. The conversion is all done by the OBD-0 to OBD-1 conversion harness. Like Reane said you have to get a OBD-1 LS distributor and swap connectors. You swap connectors to connect the engine harness to the OBD-1 distributor.
Thanks man...OK let's make sure I have everything:
OBD0 Peak&Hold Injectors (will these plug right in?)
OBD0->OBD1 ECU conversion harness
OBD1 Distributor
OBD1 ECU
I also need a 4 wire O2 sensor right?
Thanks again for all the help
OBD0 Peak&Hold Injectors (will these plug right in?)
OBD0->OBD1 ECU conversion harness
OBD1 Distributor
OBD1 ECU
I also need a 4 wire O2 sensor right?
Thanks again for all the help
I can't answer that question... I don't have any experience with the 450s.
I know that you can use an OBDII distributor if you find that more easily. The only difference is the way the distributor is pinned. The OBDI model has two separate plugs - one 7-wire, one 2-wire, while the OBDII has one 9-wire plug.
I know that you can use an OBDII distributor if you find that more easily. The only difference is the way the distributor is pinned. The OBDI model has two separate plugs - one 7-wire, one 2-wire, while the OBDII has one 9-wire plug.
[QUOTE=raene]I can't answer that question... I don't have any experience with the 450s
Yea, I do believe they will fit. I can't remember if I have obd0 or obd1 plug's.. Anyway, If you take a soldiering iron and melt the center tab out of the injector It will fit obd0,obd1 and obd2.
Yea, I do believe they will fit. I can't remember if I have obd0 or obd1 plug's.. Anyway, If you take a soldiering iron and melt the center tab out of the injector It will fit obd0,obd1 and obd2.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA-MAX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just keep your OBD0 injectors they work just fine...at least thats how mine is.
I have a question though, as far as DSM 450s...will they fit the OBD0 injector clips??</TD></TR></TABLE>
I need larger injectors
I have 450's, so I'm assuming they fit OBD0. I'll ask the previous owner (he already had them installed) if I have OBD0 or OBD1 clips. They're for sale by the way.
I have a question though, as far as DSM 450s...will they fit the OBD0 injector clips??</TD></TR></TABLE>
I need larger injectors

I have 450's, so I'm assuming they fit OBD0. I'll ask the previous owner (he already had them installed) if I have OBD0 or OBD1 clips. They're for sale by the way.
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