how to install a knock sensor in 95 civic to please the p30 ecu for b16 swap? running the wire and connecting it to the ecu.

 

it must be a shielded wire ( it is only one wire). it will go to D3.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it must be a shielded wire ( it is only one wire). it will go to D3.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep Don't forget to ground the bare braided wire to "shield" it.

 

shielded wires? i ask peeps on streets and said they dont use shielded wires. it worked fine. are stock wires shielded?

the knock sensor wire is one split to two?

 

Uhh, I didnt use any shielded wire and my car runs fine...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aw1234dude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uhh, I didnt use any shielded wire and my car runs fine...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right...you don't need shielded wire but on a knock sensor application like this, electronic interferences can mess up the signal that your knock sensor it sending to your ecu. You'd be better off with shielded wire, but it's by no means necessary.

 

I have wired swaps without a shielded wire for knock and it worked. But sometimes it throws a code without a sheilded wire. I put a shielded wire on there and it fixed the problem. I would use the sheilded wire to begin with. You will not have to worry about a CEL later on (if wired up correctly).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have wired swaps without a shielded wire for knock and it worked. But sometimes it throws a code without a sheilded wire. I put a shielded wire on there and it fixed the problem. I would use the sheilded wire to begin with. You will not have to worry about a CEL later on (if wired up correctly).</TD></TR></TABLE>

What he's saying is completely true. It might work with regular single conductive wire, but to be safe use sheilded wire. The OEM wiring for the knock sensor is shielded, so I always use shielded wire myself to make it as factory as possible.

 

so actually everyone jus wires it from tower down to ECU D3 right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wizzards581 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so actually everyone jus wires it from tower down to ECU D3 right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct, from the shock tower to the ECU

 

i did that.. but with a regular wire.. probably speaker wires or something... does the knock wire split into two? it looks like it...

 

your using the stock knock sensor wire, right? the white wire that is coming out of it (or splitting out of it) is the shielded apart of the wire. You have to give that part ground.

 

sorry for the long wait to reply but I lost this post. what do you mean by shielded, insulated? and drounding it, the knock threads is the ground right? I thought they only have one wire, can you give a detailed instruction, please? thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry for the long wait to reply but I lost this post. what do you mean by shielded, insulated?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the wire has small wire covering it so that other wires around it do not distrub the signal of the wire.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and drounding it, the knock threads is the ground right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, yes, you are some what correct. But grounding the knock is only grounding the knock sensor, not the wire. The signal from the knock sensor to the ECU can not be disturbed by another wire. thats why it is a shielded wire.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I thought they only have one wire, can you give a detailed instruction, please? thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is really not that hard. find the knock connector and wire it up to the ECU and ground the shielded part and you are done. (it goes to D3 on the ECU)

 

thanks! thats detailed enough, so I can use a piece of RCA cable.

 

Here's a pic as reference of an OEM Honda shielded wire. This particular one is the engine harness side of an OBD1 distributor plug wire.



As you can see the main wire on the left has an ORG jacket, then the wire on the right is the bare braided wire. They are both covered with another black jacket.
For example if you would use this one for the Knock sensor: The bare braided wire would be grounded on one end then the ORG would go from the Knock sensor to D3 on the ECU.

 

Where the hell can you buy shielded wire ? Mine is starting to throw codes...again....using a reg wire now... works fine for a while...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quiks66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Right...you don't need shielded wire but on a knock sensor application like this, electronic interferences can mess up the signal that your knock sensor it sending to your ecu. You'd be better off with shielded wire, but it's by no means necessary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah believe it. You want to know if your pistons are knocking! Unless, that is if you dont want to have your swap running reliably or at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by X2BOARD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where the hell can you buy shielded wire ? Mine is starting to throw codes...again....using a reg wire now... works fine for a while...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've been to Radio Shack and numerous electronics stores and have yet to find anything close to the shielded wire that Honda uses. I have a lot of it in my parts stockade from many trips to U-Pull It yards. Nothing beats OEM, that is unless you find it's equivalent which I have yet to do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECVillain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep Don't forget to ground the bare braided wire to "shield" it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doesn't "need" to be shielded. I have run mine with normal wire and 0 problems. My friend also ran his with no shielding and 0 issues as well. How do I know there are no issues? The dyno doesn't lie

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doesn't "need" to be shielded. I have run mine with normal wire and 0 problems. My friend also ran his with no shielding and 0 issues as well. How do I know there are no issues? The dyno doesn't lie </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's fine, I've seen other people who have not used shielded wire and it works no problem. No one said you have to, it's just better to do it than not. It's not like it's that much harder to do. The OEM knock sensor wiring is shielded, the Helms and/or a factory wired knock sensor doesn't lie either

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECVillain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've been to Radio Shack and numerous electronics stores and have yet to find anything close to the shielded wire that Honda uses. I have a lot of it in my parts stockade from many trips to U-Pull It yards. Nothing beats OEM, that is unless you find it's equivalent which I have yet to do. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Always right


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doesn't "need" to be shielded. I have run mine with normal wire and 0 problems. My friend also ran his with no shielding and 0 issues as well. How do I know there are no issues? The dyno doesn't lie </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have wired swaps without shielded wire for knock and it work. I have wired swaps without shielded wire for knock and have it throw a CEL. But Honda uses a shielded wire for a reason, or it would not be on the wire.

Edit: VTECVillain beat me to it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECVillain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's fine, I've seen other people who have not used shielded wire and it works no problem. No one said you have to, it's just better to do it than not. It's not like it's that much harder to do. The OEM knock sensor wiring is shielded, the Helms and/or a factory wired knock sensor doesn't lie either </TD></TR></TABLE>

No, the Helm does not lie. But one thing to remember about Honda is that they love to over engineer things. This is not a bad thing, not bad at all. Its what makes them so damn reliable. My point just being that shortcuts can be taken without any issues in *SOME* cases.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, the Helm does not lie.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually now that I think of it, I could give you one instance where they are wrong in the wiring schematics of the 91 Civic/CRX, for the DPFI DX and STD models. I don't wanna hi-jack this thread or even start another post about it really, but it did make me a little more precautious about things.

 

now for hard part, is it possible to install an led to the knock sensor to tell you when knock is going on in the cylinders?