Hey guys, we're doing a swap for a local guy.

The motor is a 1997 auto D16Y8, going into a MT 90 Si.

I know about most of the differences for auto, but my question is in regards to the IACV, and the alt. belt.

I know the IACV is located on the throttle body for the auto Y8, and the M/T Y8 has it located on the back of the manifold. The plugs are different. Can we just splice the plugs and extend the wires? Will this work????

Can someone give me a part number for the correct alt. belt? We're using the A6 alt on the Y8, and the crank pulley is larger on the Y8. Thus, we need a different belt.

THANKS!

 

Dang, nobody knows? C'mon, wtf...

 

you will need a manual intake manifold or else you will have idling problems.

 

yes as far as i am convern, u will indeed need a manual manifold , unless u can go ahead and bypass the sensor and have a fixed idle
unless u guys actually live in the cold and need that to work
as far as the belt... just go to a local parts store and have them give u a belt that might be 2-3 inches longer.. u can always hold both belts togheter and get one that is a 1-1.5 inches longer when held togheter

 

you can use your manifold for now.

 

There is no alt belt that will work with an a6 alt pulley and a y8 crank pulley. The a6 belts are narrower belts and have less ribs. Why not just use the y8 alt? Isnt the auto y8 manifold missing the fast idle thermo? I maybe wrong.

 

Well, we finished it. It's throwing an 02 heater code (busted o2 circuit) and it's running off the auto i/M... crappy *** idle. Also, the crank seal is leaking past the crank pulley... but it still pulls hard. Our work is done... for now.

For all that are interested: GET A M/T Y8!!!! IACV doesn't work well if it's an auto motor.

AND the A6 belt worked with some wrestling.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IACV doesn't work well if it's an auto motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the iacv is probably not working at all! the 2 wire version uses 12V to open and when you take the 12V away it closes. the 3 wire version uses 12V to open then needs 12V of the reverse polarity to close. at least thats how the one i tested worked.

if that didnt make sence maybe this will:
EE_Chris (11:29 AM 7/2/2003): 2 & 3 wire IACV's operate ENTIRELY different....which explains why you couldn't get it to work.
fastcrxsi90 (9:49 PM 7/2/2003): yeah i figured that out after i took the 3 wire iacv apart...i thought that i had read on here somewhere that you could get the 3 wire to work like the 2 wire if you just ground one of the extra wires. but thats obviously incorrect. i could get it to close but not open....or open but not close. theres probably a way to do it if you could figure out what kind of signal the ecu was sending.
EE_Chris (7:09 AM 7/3/2003): The ECU sends a pulse width modulated waveform to EACH of those control wires (A13, A14)...essentially, each of those control wires 'tugs' at the rotary piece to keep it in a certain position.
fastcrxsi90 (10:01 AM 7/3/2003): that seems to make sense as to how it behaved just using a straight 12v signal. thanks for clearing that up for me!
EE_Chris (7:01 AM 7/7/2003): Notta problem.

 

Very cool info, and that explains the problem exactly. Actually, the IACV did function, but obviously not as expected. The idle was high with the IACV disconnected but with the IACV connected it increased even further.

We actually traced the circuits and made a best guess as to connection polarity. The fact that when the IACV was connected the idle went up seemed to indicate that the IACV was connected correctly but there was a massive vacuum leak. We sourced the 'leak' to the inlet port in the TB leading to the IACV, at which point we decided it was just a problem with the IACV, doubtless due to it being auto 3-wire. We tried to adjust it down with the idle stopper but obviously that's not enough range to bring it anywhere near spec.

So to anyone attempting this with an auto: Your idle WILL be messed.