I get a lot of wheel hop these days, I did check my mounts and they seem to be ok.
I have been wanting to upgrade them either to inserts or new mounts, but just unsure which way to go.
From what I understand if i continue to get wheel hop I endanger my axles, is that true?
also which is the best bang for the buck? But with the inserts will they give out over time and would the new mounts hold up better over time.
I understand that mounts will cause more cabin noise, but how much? also would the inserts cause noise too?
Not that I care but would like to know.

So on a VERY TIGHT BUDGET which way would you go?

And any other input would be appreciated.

 

the inserts hol dup great, they shouldnt give you probs over time , they are urathane , they shouldnt deteriorate.
both will give you vibration , the upper mounts are worse though . nut you get used to it over time . wheel hop will break trannies and axles, trust me i know from experience

 

Rob, I don't have any experience with this, but from what I've heard the polyurethane motor mount inserts seem to do a decent job in reducing wheel hop. Like you said, you will probably have some vibration in your cabin, but if you can deal with that, go for it. I think Energy Suspension, and Prothane make these inserts. I think I heard the back mounts are a PITA to install. Go for it..

 

I knew Pete would chime in..

 

the lowers helped a bit , but when in combo with the uppers it totally did the trick , im very happy for my total of maybe $100 for all the lowers , rear and uppers.

 

Thanks guys, Ok John you said that might be hard to install, Just how hard?
If the inserts are hard to install, should I just spend the extra time and do complete mounts?

 

i have the inserts for the lower front mounts and rear mount.seemed to help wheel hop issues a lot.can't really go wrong for the price-i think i paid around $40?
only PITA about install is just getting the rear L-bracket outof the way enough to get the insert in.
chris

 

RHD drive itr's seem to have alot of wheel hop.........

 

Yup, RHD are a handful

Where would the best place to get them from, Summit, Jegs or ???

 

I got mine from Summit , the lowers were from ES and were like $40
and the uppers were Prothane and were like $60

 

ok I found these in summit:
"Acura: 1994-99 Integra; Honda: 1999 Civic (DOHC), red, motor mount insert set "

Is that it?
and for the others I can't find...

 

is that prothane or Energy Susp? the prothane ones people were havng a hard time finding , but its in the catalog.

 

those I listed are the ES.

But the prothane I can't seem to find in the catalog- I'm still looking

 

Hmm ... wheel hop?

I'll have to see what still in my car after all the changes lately, but ... I do need to do something about this situation myself.

 

First two is easy. The last one (rear transmission mount) is a PITA. I still need Dan to put that in one of these days.

Does it help wheel hop? Somewhat. Still happened once in awhile but it's all but gone after putting in the suspension + mounts. After throwing in the rear mounts, it should be golden (if I can deal with the extra vibration).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm ... wheel hop?

I'll have to see what still in my car after all the changes lately, but ... I do need to do something about this situation myself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you're going to need the inserts and a traction bar. For your car anyway.

 

Im pretty interested in this as well. I have some very violent wheel hop and usually I wont even get on the gas WOT in 1st gear because of it. Maybe Ill add it to my xmas list.

Rob make sure to let us know how it works out for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So on a VERY TIGHT BUDGET which way would you go?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well cheapskate ( ) , how about some 3M window weld. Doc Cortez's motor was solid as a rock last I saw of it. And for 8 bucks, you'll have plenty of beer money to drink Will under the table again soon.

 

Who you Ed,,, you don't have any

As for those front two you had Kyle, they did look easy, also happy to hear it got rid of some wheel hop. traction bar??? Mmmm would like to but kinda pricey now.

I wont even get on the gas WOT in 1st gear because of it. especially when its this cold out- zero traction and the car feel likes it going to break.

I don't need a lot of money to drink Will under the table ,we just have to find a $1.50 draft night and I'll be way ahead by $10.00

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who you Ed,,, you don't have any </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hehe ... yeah, trying to see what breaks first.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you're going to need the inserts and a traction bar. For your car anyway. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I had inserts in the stock mounts previously, but I'd had some Mugen mounts sittung around for a while and I'm not sure if Steve just used them as is or couldn't get the inserts into them this time around.
I've thought of the traction bars, but the wheel hop got much worse when I stitched back to the Azenis on stock rims ... from my old 032R's on the SSR comps (just recently, well after the turbo install).

 

the es inserts worked for me. the window weld is a good idea too but it just need to dry good. if you need help e-mail me.

 

i got mine from summit racing.

 

The rear tranny mount is tricky to install, here's what I did:

1. Remove intake arm.
2. Slide the charcoal canister up and off of its mount (located by the battery). The only reason I removed the canister was to get access to the lower front tie bar from above (next step).
3. Unbolt the lower front tie bar (4 bolts, trick is to use a whole bunch of socket extensions for easy access to the bolts from above).
4. Unbolt rear triangle mount (4 or 5 bolts, I forgot), just the triangle piece not the mount itself that is bolted to the frame.inserts into place. You will not be able to completely clear the triangle
5. From under the car, push up on the triangle mount and slide the rear piece to slip in the insert because one of the heater coolant hose is located above it but you should be able to move it enough to insert the inserts It helps to have a friend pull from above while you push up from below (becareful not to break the coolant line going through the firewall).

Hope that helps. I went with the full ES setup (2 lower front and the rear tranny insert). I sat in Dr. Pooface's car which has the ES and prothane inserts...I remember asking him what exhaust he had, it was completely stock (header, cat, b-pipe and muffler) but it sounded like open header and felt like those vibrating chairs.

 

rob the cheapest solution is to get the inserts

inserts can even fix ripped mounts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rob the cheapest solution is to get the inserts

inserts can even fix ripped mounts</TD></TR></TABLE>Yup, my torn mounts are pretty much held together by the inserts and extra polyurethane.