civicrights

Im helping a buddy out and we are going to pick out a motor tomorrow for 90 civic DX but I have a slight problem, im an EG guy. First thing I would like to know is in your opinions which B16 do we want, first or second generation. Im thinking second gen because of the extra ten horse. Is there a factory motor mount we could get that would get the motor into an EF. Which tranny do we want, this car will be a daily driver so nothing to crazy. Something like the gearing in a Del Sol with a b16, my brother has one and it seems to be just right for that motor. Thanks for any help.

c jackson

i have done a b16 swap into a dx. it was fun, but challenging. first, i would go with a first gen b16, not only because of the cost, but because of the tranny. i would rather not have to convert to a cable tranny. on the motor mounts, you will need to get the hasport b series ef mounts if the swap doesnt come with the stock ones. the tranny that comes with the b16 should be good enough for you, i like the gearing on mine...short and quick gears. the wiring on the dx will need to be changed to vtec...which involves adding 2 more injectors plus the 4 wires needed to activate vtec, plus wiring for an injector resistor box. hasport can change over your wiring harness for 250 or so. injector box is about 20. if you want to go that route, i have a extra dx -> vtec wiring harness and resistor boxthat came off my old crx that im willing to sell. if you need any other help just pm me

OBD1 Kenobi

I can supply you a set of mounts. I am not too far from you. Mounts are CDN$399. I have a set ready except for bushings but I could get those by Tues or Wed.

If you are not confidant to do the wiring, I can do that as well.

civicrights

The place that we are going to has a lot of motors and they will let us swap parts among motors. So I was thinking I could start with a second gen motor then add a cable tranny and the motor mounts we need. Would this be the prefered set up? Or am I missing something.

speeddave

that would work but then you still have the problem of the second gen, being obd-1. so you'll need to convert to obd-1 or change over the required parts and use the obd-0 harness. personally i would just run the 1st gen, its usually much cheaper, and you can easily gain that power back w/some itr cams or something.

you will also need the mount kit, no matter if the engine came w/stock mounts or not. the mount kit postitions the motor where it should be. make sure to buy the motor as complete as possible, it will save you being nickled and dimed to death. you also need the drivers side motor mount bracket(the one that bolts to the block) and the rear engine mount.

there's lots of other little things to do, but you'll find them on numerous sites here on honda-tech

civicrights

By mount kit do you mean the hasport kit? What about the factory SIR mounts? I have seen pics of people welding brackets into the engine bay, is that to get the SIR mounts to work or some other mount. The reason I am so insitant about the mounts is I like to use as many factory parts as I can and we are also on a very tight buget. The place we are getting the motor from will let us swap the engine mounts when we buy the motor so if we could use a factory mount it would save a lot of hasle.

OBD1 Kenobi

It`s a Canadian-made mount kit. The chassis of the CRXs and Civics in North America are not oriented to take a B-series motor. The placement of the motor capeable of holding it under all conditions without sturdy mounts is not advised and is not a likely feat.

This is not the best photo of the kit with an optional polishing ($85):

ghonaherpalitis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBD1 Kenobi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It`s a Canadian-made mount kit. </TD></TR></TABLE>

can i ask who they are made by?

OBD1 Kenobi

Used to be called SPI. BTW, with these mounts you need to sledge the rear cross-member lip where the rear mount goes. The lip is not structural so you won't have to worry. No need to sledge the shock tower for alternator clearance with these.


Modified by OBD1 Kenobi at 2:21 AM 11/30/2003

Starbucks_91b16acrx

Dont forget to bang out the frame on the driver side so the alternator will have some clearnace. Dont weld on obrakets for the mounts. Just by a kit, ive seen some as low as 200 dollars on ebay. I suggest this because jst incase you have to put the d series back in, you can drop it in with no problem. Also take out the bottom peice of the heat sheild on the header so that you can clear the front cross member

speeddave

on my ls/vtec i barely had to bang the shock tower, i used a dead-blow hammer, no paint chipping at all, worked great w/hcp mounts. using a mount kit is the way to go, why mess w/stock mounts/welding brackets, when there not gonna last anyway. a good urethane mount will last a long time and hold a lot better than any stock mount. also give the idea of removing the front mount from your crossmember, it frees up a lot of space and looks cleaner imo.

Destroyer24Seven

I would say Its pretty painless in an ef just make sure you wire it right thats the only thing that prevented me from getting it done in one day.

OBD1 Kenobi

No pounding of the shock tower needed for my kit. Rear cross-member along edge where mount is, needs the non-structural lip to be "love-tapped" downward.

raene

I have the Redshift Racing mounts, my brother has the SPI Tuning mounts (redesigned). Neither of us had to clearance anything to install our B16As.

Another local guy ehh... welcome

SuperJay

I have a set of these mounts and I did have to put a dent in the shock tower for the altenator. Other than that they are good so far. But you should state in the instructions that you have to bend the rear xmember lip. I totally forgot to do this. I also got a squeal under acceleration when I'm accelerating. I'll find it sooner or later.


Modified by SuperJay at 8:52 AM 12/10/2003


Modified by SuperJay at 8:52 AM 12/10/2003

raene

Check the shock tower for clearance from the alt pulley. I found sometimes that the alternator pulley was contacting the shock tower and causing a grinding/squealing noise. I never dented mine, however.

OBD1 Kenobi

I've experienced sueeling from a loose alternator belt. Overtightening the tension on the belt can cause it to stretch and then be loose. You want it tight enough that when you twist the belt laterally, it will go 90°, no more and no less.

SuperJay

I have this squeal even with the altenator belt off. And I know it's not rubbing on the shock tower cuz I did put a dent in it. Could the bushings be causing a squeal when the're rubbing the car? Sounds kinda stupid I know.

rsbad454

all chassis' are different as far as bending and cutting stuff.....to make the motor fit. Doesnt matter what aftermarket customs mounts you get. You'll either have to bend, cut etc........or you wont......

raene

It's squealing continually? I'd start checking other things... like the water pump, maybe.

SuperJay

It's only squealing under acceleration. It gets louder the harder I accelerate.

OBD1 Kenobi

A little off the topic here but there is an all-Honda model meet in Coquitlam this Saturday (20th). There appears to be many CRXs coming.

There's a meet at Coquitlam Silvercity Theatre overflow parking lot at 1 pm, then a cruise to Cypress Bowl around 2 pm. We've planned to go for All-You-Can-Eat sushi afterwards.

A few people from Abbotsford are coming if they don't have to work.
The meet notice, with maps is posted on VCC and accessible by clicking here .

raene

Hey civicrights, I was notified that since you're a group member, you've basically got the best resource for swaps from the members in your group... you should get in touch with them if you want swapping done

BTW this is Ian from MRP, with the red CRX that has the white stripe.