Ok, well I've had the Energy Suspension motor mount inserts for a while now..... They replace the two lower and rear mount with urethane. It's decently stiff and an upgrade over stock (imho).

I've been wanting to try out the Prothane motor mount inserts as well. Since they compliment/ supliment the stock mounts in much the same way that the ES kit does - but for the two upper mounts and the rear.

I went to Nopi and got what showed up on their machine as the three p/n's for the two upper and rear: 8-501 (left upper), 8-502 (right uppper), and 8-503 (rear lower). I looked at them, and one of them looks suspiciously like it isn't the correct one.....

So I called Prothane and talked to one of the guys there to get their opinion..... They told me that the rear lower insert p/n was not right for my application. Figures. Nopi sold me the wrong part. They should have sold me 8-509 (rear lower). Great. I'm not too concerned, since I wasn't sure whether I'd replace that rear lower one again - seeing as how it was such a PITA in the first place when I used the ES one.....

I also found out from Prothane that there is a complete kit of all 3 part #'s for the inserts: 8-1904. So you can save a few $ by ordering that instead of ordering them separately.

If anyone has information to share - whether it corroborates or contradicts what I've posted - please do. It sucks to be working on the car after hours and find out that you have the wrong parts to put on your car.....

fwiw, here's some interesting info on the prothane inserts:
-they are stiffer than the ES ones. Noticably so just by inspecting them. 65D hardness to be exact.
-the left upper mount has a soft or hard insert you can choose between...

I'll post up a full review when I get them all in.

*sigh*

Now back to nopi to exchange tomorrow.....

 

Have fun.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=178918

 

OMG, NOOOOOOOOO!!!!

I remember that thread! I didn't remember that you were using these. DAMMIT! I'm a tard!

I will remind myself to take the mount to a machine shop and have it pressed in.

*WHEW* Luckily I have a stock motor mount in the garage to swap out so I won't be stuck without a car.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OMG, NOOOOOOOOO!!!!

I remember that thread! I didn't remember that you were using these. DAMMIT! I'm a tard!

I will remind myself to take the mount to a machine shop and have it pressed in.

*WHEW* Luckily I have a stock motor mount in the garage to swap out so I won't be stuck without a car..... </TD></TR></TABLE>

You dont need to...
I messed up at first..
Take the old mount out, and clean that **** up..Then you will see there is a metal ring..you ened to take a hack saw, and cut that ****, and bend it out. Then the inserts will go in smoothly, no need for any press crap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ragejed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then you will see there is a metal ring..you ened to take a hack saw, and cut that ****, and bend it out. Then the inserts will go in smoothly, no need for any press crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats exactly what I did, and there is no way I could of got the inserts in "smoothly". A press is definitaly required, IMO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats exactly what I did, and there is no way I could of got the inserts in "smoothly". A press is definitaly required, IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dunno, I swapped the street puck out, and put the race ones in with my fingers..

 

i took mine to a machine shop and let thme mess with it , cost me $10 and he had the headache. it only really took him like 10min , but he camne out cleaning himself up said he got shot with the jizz inside it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats exactly what I did, and there is no way I could of got the inserts in "smoothly". A press is definitaly required, IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>


.....I think those guys saying "use a press" are doing so to get the stock mount out. I can't think of another way - unless you burn and hacksaw it. As for the metal sleeve - there are two; one on the motor mount rubber bit, and another one on the inside of the stock aluminum mount. From you guys' descriptions, I had thought it was like a snap ring - but realized it's a tin sleeve..... I cut it out and the motor mount inserts went in by hand - with some lube and full body weight on them. A vice will press them in decently well too. I wonder if removing that sleeve weakens the motor mount - since the only thing left is just AL.....

*update:

I got the driver's side insert in using the above method and decided to tackle the passenger's side one tomorrow. I currently have the ES inserts for the two lower and rear..... I used the RACE insert for the prothane one.....

OMG, it was vibrating a LOT more at idle..... AND there is more vibration in the cabin. These are somewhere between 2-10x more noticable than the ES ones..... as far as how stiff they are and how much of a difference they make you feel in the cabin. They basically make you rethink whether you actually want motor mounts THAT stiff..... The seat vibrates along with the rest of the interior, and after an hour or so of driving at 80mph you are somewhat regretful of the RACE install..... I think the ES inserts are enough for the average driver. These are only for the hardcore!

I will finish the install tomorrow on the passenger side upper mount, and intend to do the rear mount as well (since the Prothane one is stiffer)...

Oh yeah, with the ES inserts I still had the drivetrain slack/ lash problem that AssPenny describes in this thread:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=669125

That issue is now GONE - it went away as soon as I put this one Prothane upper RACE insert in. No drivetrain slack/ lash problem now. And no wheelhop.

I also noticed better throttle response..... it is immediate!


Modified by Black R at 8:14 PM 11/19/2003

 

Prothane is hardcore...

But a good idea would be to stiffen up the front chassis before it takes too much beating from the engine.

 

Hmmm ... goot idea!
Need to order more partz.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


.....I think those guys saying "use a press" are doing so to get the stock mount out. I can't think of another way - unless you burn and hacksaw it. As for the metal sleeve - there are two; one on the motor mount rubber bit, and another one on the inside of the stock aluminum mount. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmmmm, I wonder where I went wrong. I cut the tin rings out and I still could barely get the inserts in, by using my R as a press! My kung-fu is weak.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hmmmm, I wonder where I went wrong. I cut the tin rings out and I still could barely get the inserts in, by using my R as a press! My kung-fu is weak.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Grease = your friend.

*update*

I got the passenger upper mount in now as well..... If it's possible, there is slightly MORE vibration in the cabin.

Now, the last piece is the rear mount insert. I already have the Energy Suspension insert there, but naturally want to put these stiffer Prothane ones in as well (might as well, since I'm using the "race" install)... why stop when you can have it even stiffer?

Does anyone have an easier way of installing the inserts to the rear motor mount? The last two times I installed the ES inserts to the rear motor mount, it was a huge (HUGE) PITA! I had to channel all of the strength in my body to my thumb and fingers to pop it in..... But these Prothane inserts are nowhere as flexible as the ES ones..... Should I simply remove the rear mount first and then put the inserts in, then reinstall it? PITA either way.....

 

yea your prob gonna need to remove the mount , when i did my es the motor was in the car so i had to manuever the mount out , wa sa PITA, when i put the prothanes in the motor was out so it was alot easier.
yes it will vibrate like a ****, but i love mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes it will vibrate like a ****, but i love mine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

People are scared of my car because of this, lol! I love it tho! My new girlfriend is use to it already....i think she likes it actually

 

i love it people stare at me at lights becuase my little honda is vibrating all the mirrors and **** at idle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i love it people stare at me at lights becuase my little honda is vibrating all the mirrors and **** at idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yeah, I was trying to explain that to some friends..... I don't like the vibrator in the *** connotation - so I said it's like you just have a LOT of bass rattling your whole car..... Most people seem to understand that.

 

a little off from the main topic but i was wondering is there any worries of chassis damage or wear associated with installing siffer inserts? i just happend to get my es motor mount insert today.

 

i wouldnt think so , i have had my ES in for a while and my prothanes in for a bit , but havent driven it in a while . i dont see how stiffening it up will hurt. if anything mroe will get hurt the more the engine moves . When people do swaps and get Hasport and Place racing mounts they are the sme exact way , Hard *** urathane bushings. my friend was dricing on Place racings for like 5-6 years now

 

How the hell did I miss this post!


Great info guys!

 

The Prothane will shake your **** all over the place but they are definitley worth it! I have them in my 99 Civic Si and they are great but you do have mad rattle! Mostly in teh dash but nothing a alittle bubble wrap and some zip ties wont fix!

 

*update*

I went over to Eva01's house on Saturday with Len and knocked out the rear mount insert. WHAT A BITCH.

I actually had an almost new rear motor mount (compared to the 50k one that was on the car with ES inserts). So I put the new motor mount in there with the prothane inserts. If I had just put the inserts in, it wouldn't have taken much time. BUT actually removing the rear motor mount without pulling the motor is a MAJOR PAIN IN THE ***! I ended up bending one of the hard lines on the power steering rack in order to free the rear mount from the bracket. Figuring out what to do to get this bitch out was a ****** nightmare.

Many thanks to Eva01 for all his help. I usually end up working on cars while the other people sit around bullshitting. Even if it's THEIR car. But Eva01 was up under the car doing one side while I did the other! AND we had the allmighty allmotor LEN to keep us company.

Review: If it's possible, the vibration in the cabin is even worse! I don't mind it - and that's what I was going for - to reduce wheelhop and increase feedback, but I'm sure many people would consider it excessive and hate it..... It's like a back massager the entire time the car is running. Yeah, the ladies love it.....

Now all I need is some of those jimfab traction bars.....!

 

Hehehehe. You're welcome Charlie Murphy! Yeah, it took longer than expected. Hope Amy wasn't too mad!

 

Thanks again Hiroki.

*Adding "how to" info now for the archives:

I unbolted the three bolts holding the rear motor mount in place from above.

You will need some really long extensions and a wobble/ universal joint socket.

The rest removal/ reinstallation is done from under the car. The trick involves jacking the motor up and toward the front of the car. Use a block of wood and a floor jack under the tranny as close to the firewall as possible. You will also need to remove all of the bolts from the tranny to motor mount brace and push it up and out of the way.

Then, you can get at the rear motor mount to push inserts out or in no problem. BUT the hard part comes if you actually need to remove the rear motor mount. There is a hard line that goes into the power steering right near where you'll be trying to slide the mount out. It'll need to slide horizontally toward the driver's side, and then forward toward the front bumper. The problem is this line is right in the way. I actually bent this hard line enough to squeeze the entire rear motor mount through and out. Take care not to bend the line too far, and don't damage it. It will give enough for you to get the mount out and the new one in. I'd suggest the prothane rear motor mount inserts if you intend to replace the mount.

Here's a link someone else posted recently that had a write-up with pics. AFTER I did my install! That would've helped me beforehand!

http://www.hazone.com/hmtrmount.htm

 

I searched for motor mounts.

» Search Results

Your search for motor mount returned 39 results, one vibrating ***, numb hands, and jizz in face.


Hey Black R, DDub/Pooface,

How are your asses and hands holding up? I'm really thinking about getting motor mount inserts to get rid of some of the lurching my motor is doing with my new 1MD Action Clutch.

You know, I'm swallowing a spider to catch the fly...

Anyhow- The prothane inserts sound like a PITA to install, and pretty damn harsh. Were the ES inserts a lot less harsh, and "almost" as effective?

That's what I'm hoping.. I did a ES motor mount insert in my wife's old Z24 and it seemed to make everything more solid with no side effects.



Thanks for suggestions...
-Chris

 

lol, I forgot about that thread.

My *** is holding up fine. I'm totally used to the added noise and vibration now.

The only downside I've encountered is that after my turbo kit got installed, none of the bolts associated with the turbo will stay tight. The downpipe and wastegate are always comming loose. No biggie for me, I'm always under the hood anyways, but a non diy person may not like that.

I love the added "feel of connection to the car" I get from the inserts. Everything the engine is doing gets transfered to you through the seat and steering wheel. Makes driving a very tactile experience, which is exactly what I wanted from this car.

Also, the total lack of wheel hop is nice, especially while daily driving in the rain.

IMO a very good mod, and well worth the money and time invested.

edit:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The car has an even more direct feel to it, like it is an extension of my body. It feels like I'm wearing it, not driving it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I stand by this statement, two years and three months later.