d series auto to manual...any welding/new brackets required?

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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 07:21 AM
  #1  
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Default d series auto to manual...any welding/new brackets required?

I've found a steal of a deal EF sedan...it's an auto with a blown engine.

Will I need to obtain/weld in any new brackets to do a engine/5spd swap? Or is it going to be all bolt in? I haven't dealt with EF's in a butt load of time.

Not looking to go B series...just something to get it running and driving.

TIA.
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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 08:01 AM
  #2  
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Default Re: d series auto to manual...any welding/new brackets required? (Jonathan_EH)

nope, no welding. just use all the factory manual mounts. you need to use the rear manual mount(the one that mounts to the rear crossmember). you need to drill a hole in the firewall for the clutch cable after you change the pedal box. you also need to drill two little holes for the shifter mount bolts. its a pretty time consuming job the first time you do it, not terrible though. try to have a manual car sitting there, it makes it easier tofigure out where to drill the hole for the clutch cable.
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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 10:39 AM
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Default Re: d series auto to manual...any welding/new brackets required? (redzcstandardhatch)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nope, no welding. just use all the factory manual mounts. you need to use the rear manual mount(the one that mounts to the rear crossmember). you need to drill a hole in the firewall for the clutch cable after you change the pedal box. you also need to drill two little holes for the shifter mount bolts. its a pretty time consuming job the first time you do it, not terrible though. try to have a manual car sitting there, it makes it easier tofigure out where to drill the hole for the clutch cable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmmm? I already had a whoile in my automatic for the clutch cable?? Only holes I had to drill were like you said for the shift linkage itself.

But yeah everything bolts right in except the hole where the shifter is will be larger and you will also have an extra hole for where the shift linkage went through. I put a plate over that one and bolted it in and I got the shift plate from a manual so the shifter fit in there like factory and I can also use the inner rubber shift boot as well.

Do a search there was a thread not too long ago with a good write up on it and some pics too.
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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 03:20 PM
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Default Re: d series auto to manual...any welding/new brackets required? (Vinceg99)

Originally Posted by Vinceg99
Do a search there was a thread not too long ago with a good write up on it and some pics too.
Since I'm so nice, here is what I put in the other link. And the only thing you have to cut and drill are 2 holes for the rear shift linkage bushing. And there already kind of marked from the factory.

, I have done many before so if you need any help feel free to IM me.

Stuff you will need

Manual trans
Manual flywheel
Manual flywheel bolts
Manual Ecu
Shift linkage
Shifter
Pedals

Side trans mount and rear trans mount from a manual, the pedals will probably be the hardest part. Here is some more wiring to help you out.

Installing the pedals (have fun):



This part sucks. Droping steering column and removing drivers seat makes life easier at this part. I cannot tell you how many nuts hold the assembly to the car, i can say it is all nuts though. One is really tricky to find and get to. You need a swivle, deepwell 12mm and 2 six inch extensions. It is above the air vents and steering column. Have fun getting it out. Remove cotter pin that holds brake pedal to brake booster. There is also a nut and bolt for it. Remove the gas pedal from automatic pedal assembly and move to manual assembly so the cable plugs up, or switch cable. Install the clutch cable through gromet that honda left on firewall in factory location. Rebolt all the nuts to the car that hold the pedal assembly.



Removal of the transmission:



To remove the transmission (you should know how to do this otherwise don't attempt). Please check my work with a chiltons or haynes manual as i will not be held responcible for damages that incure from this install. Remove both axels. Unbolt the bellhousing, remove the mounts (3 of them) and remove transmission, this is a unusually large tranny, it might require the whole engine coming out depended on how patient you are. I had the whole thing out cause i was putting a DOHC ZC in. Unbolt the torque converter from the motor, install flywheel (make sure not to reuse automatic flywheel bolts).



Installing shift linkage



This is a fairly simple task, remove the old auto shifter by removing 2 bolts on top and 2 on bottom. Then drill 2 holes where honda welded over them as picture below. Then simply install as a normal linkage would be. Take a piece of thin metal and glue to a piece of abs plastic and epoxy it on, the metal is to deflect heat and the plastic is to keep the heat form transfering inside.





Installing the transmission:



Torqure manual flywheel bolts down at 76 footpounds of torque. Install clutch with alignment tool, torque bolts down to 25 ft lbs. Before you install it all back there is one extremely important thing about the rear mount. Honda left 2 spots to mount the rear mount with 3 sets of holes, two are threaded, one is not. You need to move the mount location to the one that is threaded and then thread the other and place a bolt in there. Reassemble as specified in honda manual. Put new manual axels in.



Wiring with diagrams:



Drag two wires from under the hood (yellow and green on tranny) for the reverse lights to work when you are in reverse. Please note that the R light on the instrument cluster will not work without some decent knowledge of relay wiring. Connect these to wires to the ones pictured below



I found this one out the hard way, the key will not come out unless the car is in park and um, you dont have a park anymore. To fix this you can make the car think its in park all the time. Please understand, by doing this the P will be on in the instrument cluster all the time. This can be corrected one of 2 ways, disconneting the light or some extensive relay work.



This one is needed to crank the car because it no longer has a neutral or park. It is one of two plugs with only 2 wires. This one is easy to spot because it has two heavy black wires instead of the other with two yellow wires. Just connect them in a simple loop, or with some relay work to the clutch pedal because some decent current goes through them directly to the starter. I just left it like picture and allways crank the car with my foot on the clutch.

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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 08:21 PM
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Thanks for the help guys!

We've got a spare d16a6 complete...minus the shift linkage.

We've also got a '90 DX with all the shift linkage, mounts etc that we can summon upon for any parts needed.

Hopefully I won't have to buy anything!

A question though....axles? Will the axles need to be swapped? They're brand new on the sedan...so hopefully not!

If they do need to be swapped...will the 5 speed DX axles work?
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Old Nov 12, 2003 | 08:52 AM
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Default Re: (Jonathan_EH)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_EH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A question though....axles? Will the axles need to be swapped? They're brand new on the sedan...so hopefully not!

If they do need to be swapped...will the 5 speed DX axles work?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes to both of them. The auto axles will work so will the DX axles. Take them both out and compare them side by side and you will see. Thats what I did I compared the Si axles to my auto DX axles and since my auto DX axles were newer I used them. So yes auto axles will work in the manual trans.
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Old Nov 12, 2003 | 12:11 PM
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Thanks
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 10:13 AM
  #8  
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Default Re: d series auto to manual...any welding/new brackets required? (Jonathan_EH)

We started on getting everything swapped over..the pedals sure are a PITA.

Few questions:

What to do about the clutch switch? I read that you can bypass the stock wiring and make the car think it's in 'park' all the time so you can start the car, but doesn't this only work on the auto ECU? What do you do if you're using the manual ECU?

Also, will the DX dizzy work when doing a DX to Si swap, or does it have to be the Si dizzy?

We're doing a d16a6 5 speed into an auto d15b sedan. TIA.
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 10:59 AM
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Default Re: d series auto to manual...any welding/new brackets required? (Jonathan_EH)

its gotta be a Si dizzy
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 12:08 PM
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I have a 91 and there was a plastic plug/grommet pushed into the hole where the clutch cable was supposed to go. I have heard that on 88/89 cars that there isn't a plastic plug and a hole actually needed to be drilled through. People that have needed to drill have said that removing the dash is basically a "must" in order to get the hole properly done.
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Old Dec 15, 2003 | 12:30 PM
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Yeah the sedan is a '91, and there was a plastic grommet where the clutch cable goes..just slipped right in.

Si Dizzy eh....ah, well I hope I can find one pretty cheap
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